Emperor IX
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
But how does HEM know who you're sitting with in a given hand? It doesn't until it gets the hh after the hand is over.
But how does HEM know who you're sitting with in a given hand? It doesn't until it gets the hh after the hand is over.
BelgoSuisse
Legend
Silver Level
HEM doesn't know. HEM puts its stats directly into your FTP notes and FTP displays it for you, not HEM
doops
Visionary
Silver Level
I'm playing 10NL 6-handed. This is what I've seen.
Rush is ABC play-your-cards positional poker. As time passes, it may become something else, but right now, it's basic poker.
What seems to be working and happening:
If you think I am way off base, or you have something to add, please speak up.
Rush is ABC play-your-cards positional poker. As time passes, it may become something else, but right now, it's basic poker.
What seems to be working and happening:
- Pre flop raises. If nobody has raised, raise when it gets to you. 3xBB or pot seems standard. 2xBB is a bet that elicits calls. Do not limp-- it's pointless. Make people pay to play any hand. Most people will fold to an all-in...unless they have AA, KK or superpremium. Heck, most people have prefolded, and most left will fold to 3BB.
- Folding a lot preflop. Play only top hands -- they will come more often given the quickness of the game. That said, playing a mid-Broadway, a suited connector or small PP occasionally from late position, raising into an unraised pot, is fine, so long as you do not chase post-flop.
- Do not chase. Do not chase. Do not chase. If the flop does not hit you, let the hand go if someone bets at it. OK, if you have a nut 4-flush, and there's only token betting, you might want to stay in and try to hit. Most of the time, it is simply not worth the time nor the money.
- Most people are playing top hands. They are not bluffing. Anyone who thinks this is a great game for the big bluff has probably already lost their money. Nobody has an image to uphold. Every table is fresh faces (more on that later). There is no controlling the table, no benefit to maniacal or donk play. Nobody is particularly afraid of anybody. Make the assumption that those who bet big have something. Your bankroll will thank you.
- Post-flop play. If checked to, make a pot sized bet as a feeler (or as a value bet if you hit the flop.) The other players will either raise you or go away, for the most part . Even a small bet will often tell you whether your top pair is worth keeping. Sometimes they will call -- be wary of the simple calls-- they may already have you beat and are happily letting you throw money into the pot. (Do this yourself when you have a great hand.) The check-raise is also a great tool in this game -- use it and expect it.
- Do not call a shove for your stack without the nuts. Well, you can if you want, but be prepared to say bye-bye to your stack.
- Fold a lot post-flop -- to a decent raise. Plenty of time to be in a truly favorable position -- save your money for those moments. Some of those will not pan out, either, but enough will. Expect to lose some buy-ins when things go wrong. If someone makes the min-raise, this usually means they have zip -- reraise if you have something.
- Do take notes on other players. Yes, there are a lot of other players in the game and they will not be in the same seat when you see them again, so it is hard to do anything about them. You can look at last hand and make side notes on awesome or egregious play. You will see some of these folks again -- and you can see if they are consistent. Most will not stand out -- they have quickfolded and you know nothing. Some will be standouts. If you open the notebox quickly, it will stay open after you fold out of the table.
- Manage yourself. I'm talking both bankroll management and tilt management. BRM is obvious -- if you do not want to go broke, watch it. Rush can eat your roll at one seating. Tilt management is something else. At this pace, you cannot afford to steam. If a hand bothers you even a little, sit out until you are calm. The game will still be there when you get back. PS: the BR you should have for the lowest level is at least $200. Rush is higher variance, and I would suggest more.
- You have no table image to uphold. Every table is new. Donk the last hand, and nobody will know this hand. Ditto with playing the best hand ever. Nobody is a LAG, a TAG, a rock, a maniac. Except those few you have notes on. LOL
If you think I am way off base, or you have something to add, please speak up.
Kasanova King
Visionary
Silver Level
Good post! Couple of things:
1. Agree for the most part. I found that min raising from the button in FR seems to work just as good as 3 betting.
2. Agreed.
3. Agreed, unless your opponent is giving you the right pot odds to call. pot odds work just as good in Rush poker as anywhere else - actually even better b/c you have more hands for the pot odds to actually catch up for you. I wouldn't chase for implied odds in Rush, your opponent will most likely fold to a big river bet if he/she doesn't have the nuts, so that more or less kills implied odds.
4. For the most part true. Beware of the person who invested a lot of money in the pot pre & on the flop. I have caught a lot of people that did this betting down to the river with a missed AK/AQ types of hands. If you have a decent hand, two pair, top pair/top kicker, it might be worth looking them up if they give you the right price to call. Sometimes a good check raise on the flop or turn will end the game right there.
5. Careful what you say about "feeler" bets around here. I got lit up for talking about a similar scenario a few weeks ago. According to the powers that be around here, you bet for: Value: to get worse hands to call or for a bluff: to get better hands to fold. They basically threw the whole" Betting for information" thing out the window. I still think it's debatable and so do a number of ranked pros in the world, but whatever.
6. Agreed. Is true in the majority of cases I've seen so far.
7. Agreed.
8. Agreed, well said.
9. Agreed - probably two of the most important things to winning at Rush.
10. Agreed, but look out, Hold Em manager now works for Rush.
doops
Visionary
Silver Level
Good post! Couple of things:
1. Agree for the most part. I found that min raising from the button in FR seems to work just as good as 3 betting.
I am playing 6-handed, and find that a min raise draws calls. Sometimes, though, you don't mind calls, do you?
3. Agreed, unless your opponent is giving you the right pot odds to call. Pot odds work just as good in Rush poker as anywhere else - actually even better b/c you have more hands for the pot odds to actually catch up for you. I wouldn't chase for implied odds in Rush, your opponent will most likely fold to a big river bet if he/she doesn't have the nuts, so that more or less kills implied odds.
True.
4. For the most part true. Beware of the person who invested a lot of money in the pot pre & on the flop. I have caught a lot of people that did this betting down to the river with a missed AK/AQ types of hands. If you have a decent hand, two pair, top pair/top kicker, it might be worth looking them up if they give you the right price to call. Sometimes a good check raise on the flop or turn will end the game right there.
Agreed.
5. Careful what you say about "feeler" bets around here. I got lit up for talking about a similar scenario a few weeks ago. According to the powers that be around here, you bet for: Value: to get worse hands to call or for a bluff: to get better hands to fold. They basically threw the whole" Betting for information" thing out the window. I still think it's debatable and so do a number of ranked pros in the world, but whatever.
Feeler bets that look the same as value bets have saved me a lot of money, I do believe. I don't try them with absolutely nothing (not that I'd admit to anyway), but with possibly-beaten PPs, and missed premiums, they are a valuable tool. If I sometimes fold the best hand as a result, so be it. I don't consider them a waste of money. Others can do as they want. In Rush, a bet on the flop will often enough take it down...
10. Agreed, but look out, Hold Em manager now works for Rush.
Yes. Something to consider.
Thanks for the feedback!
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P
ph_il
...
Silver Level
So, few notes on my experience playing Rush Poker...I've been playing 6-max 10nl and 25nl. They may not be right, but its what I've observed.
-ABC is probably the best approach. No real need for fancy play.
-If someone opens from UTG with a raise, give them credit for a decent hand. Don't call too light.
-If someone raises in late position, don't give them too much credit for a hand. 3 bet a bit lighter than you normally would.
-I find that if in BB with a big hand like QQ and button raises (SB folds). It's better to just call and trap. 3 betting gets a lot of folds from button raises most of the time, but if you call they're very likely to C-bet about 90%+ of the time. So, you can get more value for your big hands.
-Don't button raise too lightly. I think that's the norm and what players expect, so they're bound to raise or call light as well. I also dont think blind stealing is that important given how nitty some of the tables are. In a lot of cases, I'm picking up small blinds when I'm in the BB and its folded to me, but I'm losing more when I'm blind stealing light and having to fold.
-Big pairs, small pairs, suited connectors are the cards you want to play. Hands like KQ, KJ, A10, etc should be played in late position with a raise. Don't call raises with AXs too often. It'll do more harm than good.
-Big pairs you obviously want to raise/re-raise for value, unless you're trapping from a blind.
-Small pairs and suited connectors are hands i like to call raises with if you're getting implied odds. I find these are the hands that make me those money when they do hit. While they work better in pots with a lot people in it, you don't want to call multi-raises them. You definitely want to limp in with these hands.
Hand where set-mining didnt workout too well
full tilt poker Game #17988270274: Table Warp Speed (6 max) - $0.10/$0.25 - No Limit Hold'em - 16:32:32 ET - 2010/01/28
Seat 1: Ricovan ($40.39)
Seat 2: t2azor ($39.16)
Seat 3: Philthy ($44.38)
Seat 4: ms pups ($25)
Seat 5: bigdwba ($11.13)
Seat 6: Brown Poppa ($130.64)
Brown Poppa posts the small blind of $0.10
Ricovan posts the big blind of $0.25
The button is in seat #5
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Philthy [4h 4c]
t2azor folds
Philthy calls $0.25
ms pups folds
bigdwba calls $0.25
Brown Poppa has 8 seconds left to act
Brown Poppa folds
Ricovan checks
*** FLOP *** [4d Ts Qh]
Ricovan checks
Philthy bets $0.85
bigdwba calls $0.85
Ricovan calls $0.85
*** TURN *** [4d Ts Qh] [5h]
Ricovan checks
Philthy bets $2.50
bigdwba calls $2.50
Ricovan folds
*** RIVER *** [4d Ts Qh 5h] [8h]
Philthy bets $3.84
bigdwba raises to $7.53, and is all in
Philthy calls $3.69
...Too much in. He is still raising a lot of hands here that I can beat. So, this call is good.
*** SHOW DOWN ***
bigdwba shows [Jc 9c] a straight, Queen high
Philthy mucks
bigdwba wins the pot ($22.29) with a straight, Queen high
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot $23.46 | Rake $1.17
Board: [4d Ts Qh 5h 8h]
Seat 1: Ricovan (big blind) folded on the Turn
Seat 2: t2azor didn't bet (folded)
Seat 3: Philthy mucked [4h 4c] - three of a kind, Fours
Seat 4: ms pups didn't bet (folded)
Seat 5: bigdwba (button) showed [Jc 9c] and won ($22.29) with a straight, Queen high
Seat 6: Brown Poppa (small blind) folded before the Flop
Set-mining that did work.
Full Tilt poker game #17988306987: Table Warp Speed (6 max) - $0.10/$0.25 - No Limit Hold'em - 16:33:53 ET - 2010/01/28
Seat 1: Ingve1234 ($39.81)
Seat 2: Philthy ($33)
Seat 3: revers74 ($20.75)
Seat 4: PeteRose31 ($43.53)
Seat 5: bradderall ($22.02)
Seat 6: kAyT86 ($27.49)
kAyT86 posts the small blind of $0.10
Ingve1234 posts the big blind of $0.25
The button is in seat #5
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Philthy [5s 5c]
Philthy calls $0.25
revers74 folds
PeteRose31 folds
bradderall folds
kAyT86 raises to $1.25
Ingve1234 has 15 seconds left to act
Ingve1234 folds
Philthy calls $1
...Both at good stack sizes. Costing me a $1 to see and hit a set or I'm out. If I hit, I can potentially take out a lot of their chips.
*** FLOP *** [2h 7h 2s]
kAyT86 bets $2.25
Philthy calls $2.25
...He bet out really fast. Almost a pot sized bet. I really don't think he is betting this quickly with a 2 or 77. He might be on a flush draw or has over cards or possibly an over pair like 99 and he doesn't want to see a big turn. I'm not too confident that I have the best hand ATM, but I might. And I'm not sensing this bet to be a value bet with a strong hand. I call to see what he'll do on the turn. He might slow down and I might get to showdown cheap.
*** TURN *** [2h 7h 2s] [5d]
kAyT86 checks
Philthy checks
...NH. I don't see how betting here is worth it. If I was right and he just has AQ or AK, he is folding a lot on this turn if I bet out. I also dont fear any flush draws, so I do want him to catch if he is on a draw.
*** RIVER *** [2h 7h 2s 5d] [3d]
kAyT86 bets $4.75
...Tells me he has something decent.
Philthy has 15 seconds left to act
Philthy raises to $10.31
...Pretty small raise for value. I think I'll get a fold if I raise anymore.
kAyT86 calls $5.56
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Philthy shows [5s 5c] a full house, Fives full of Twos
kAyT86 mucks
Philthy wins the pot ($26.48) with a full house, Fives full of Twos
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot $27.87 | Rake $1.39
Board: [2h 7h 2s 5d 3d]
Seat 1: Ingve1234 (big blind) folded before the Flop
Seat 2: Philthy showed [5s 5c] and won ($26.48) with a full house, Fives full of Twos
Seat 3: revers74 didn't bet (folded)
Seat 4: PeteRose31 didn't bet (folded)
Seat 5: bradderall (button) didn't bet (folded)
Seat 6: kAyT86 (small blind) mucked [Qd Qs] - two pair, Queens and Twos
-ABC is probably the best approach. No real need for fancy play.
-If someone opens from UTG with a raise, give them credit for a decent hand. Don't call too light.
-If someone raises in late position, don't give them too much credit for a hand. 3 bet a bit lighter than you normally would.
-I find that if in BB with a big hand like QQ and button raises (SB folds). It's better to just call and trap. 3 betting gets a lot of folds from button raises most of the time, but if you call they're very likely to C-bet about 90%+ of the time. So, you can get more value for your big hands.
-Don't button raise too lightly. I think that's the norm and what players expect, so they're bound to raise or call light as well. I also dont think blind stealing is that important given how nitty some of the tables are. In a lot of cases, I'm picking up small blinds when I'm in the BB and its folded to me, but I'm losing more when I'm blind stealing light and having to fold.
-Big pairs, small pairs, suited connectors are the cards you want to play. Hands like KQ, KJ, A10, etc should be played in late position with a raise. Don't call raises with AXs too often. It'll do more harm than good.
-Big pairs you obviously want to raise/re-raise for value, unless you're trapping from a blind.
-Small pairs and suited connectors are hands i like to call raises with if you're getting implied odds. I find these are the hands that make me those money when they do hit. While they work better in pots with a lot people in it, you don't want to call multi-raises them. You definitely want to limp in with these hands.
Hand where set-mining didnt workout too well
full tilt poker Game #17988270274: Table Warp Speed (6 max) - $0.10/$0.25 - No Limit Hold'em - 16:32:32 ET - 2010/01/28
Seat 1: Ricovan ($40.39)
Seat 2: t2azor ($39.16)
Seat 3: Philthy ($44.38)
Seat 4: ms pups ($25)
Seat 5: bigdwba ($11.13)
Seat 6: Brown Poppa ($130.64)
Brown Poppa posts the small blind of $0.10
Ricovan posts the big blind of $0.25
The button is in seat #5
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Philthy [4h 4c]
t2azor folds
Philthy calls $0.25
ms pups folds
bigdwba calls $0.25
Brown Poppa has 8 seconds left to act
Brown Poppa folds
Ricovan checks
*** FLOP *** [4d Ts Qh]
Ricovan checks
Philthy bets $0.85
bigdwba calls $0.85
Ricovan calls $0.85
*** TURN *** [4d Ts Qh] [5h]
Ricovan checks
Philthy bets $2.50
bigdwba calls $2.50
Ricovan folds
*** RIVER *** [4d Ts Qh 5h] [8h]
Philthy bets $3.84
bigdwba raises to $7.53, and is all in
Philthy calls $3.69
...Too much in. He is still raising a lot of hands here that I can beat. So, this call is good.
*** SHOW DOWN ***
bigdwba shows [Jc 9c] a straight, Queen high
Philthy mucks
bigdwba wins the pot ($22.29) with a straight, Queen high
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot $23.46 | Rake $1.17
Board: [4d Ts Qh 5h 8h]
Seat 1: Ricovan (big blind) folded on the Turn
Seat 2: t2azor didn't bet (folded)
Seat 3: Philthy mucked [4h 4c] - three of a kind, Fours
Seat 4: ms pups didn't bet (folded)
Seat 5: bigdwba (button) showed [Jc 9c] and won ($22.29) with a straight, Queen high
Seat 6: Brown Poppa (small blind) folded before the Flop
Set-mining that did work.
Full Tilt poker game #17988306987: Table Warp Speed (6 max) - $0.10/$0.25 - No Limit Hold'em - 16:33:53 ET - 2010/01/28
Seat 1: Ingve1234 ($39.81)
Seat 2: Philthy ($33)
Seat 3: revers74 ($20.75)
Seat 4: PeteRose31 ($43.53)
Seat 5: bradderall ($22.02)
Seat 6: kAyT86 ($27.49)
kAyT86 posts the small blind of $0.10
Ingve1234 posts the big blind of $0.25
The button is in seat #5
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Philthy [5s 5c]
Philthy calls $0.25
revers74 folds
PeteRose31 folds
bradderall folds
kAyT86 raises to $1.25
Ingve1234 has 15 seconds left to act
Ingve1234 folds
Philthy calls $1
...Both at good stack sizes. Costing me a $1 to see and hit a set or I'm out. If I hit, I can potentially take out a lot of their chips.
*** FLOP *** [2h 7h 2s]
kAyT86 bets $2.25
Philthy calls $2.25
...He bet out really fast. Almost a pot sized bet. I really don't think he is betting this quickly with a 2 or 77. He might be on a flush draw or has over cards or possibly an over pair like 99 and he doesn't want to see a big turn. I'm not too confident that I have the best hand ATM, but I might. And I'm not sensing this bet to be a value bet with a strong hand. I call to see what he'll do on the turn. He might slow down and I might get to showdown cheap.
*** TURN *** [2h 7h 2s] [5d]
kAyT86 checks
Philthy checks
...NH. I don't see how betting here is worth it. If I was right and he just has AQ or AK, he is folding a lot on this turn if I bet out. I also dont fear any flush draws, so I do want him to catch if he is on a draw.
*** RIVER *** [2h 7h 2s 5d] [3d]
kAyT86 bets $4.75
...Tells me he has something decent.
Philthy has 15 seconds left to act
Philthy raises to $10.31
...Pretty small raise for value. I think I'll get a fold if I raise anymore.
kAyT86 calls $5.56
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Philthy shows [5s 5c] a full house, Fives full of Twos
kAyT86 mucks
Philthy wins the pot ($26.48) with a full house, Fives full of Twos
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot $27.87 | Rake $1.39
Board: [2h 7h 2s 5d 3d]
Seat 1: Ingve1234 (big blind) folded before the Flop
Seat 2: Philthy showed [5s 5c] and won ($26.48) with a full house, Fives full of Twos
Seat 3: revers74 didn't bet (folded)
Seat 4: PeteRose31 didn't bet (folded)
Seat 5: bradderall (button) didn't bet (folded)
Seat 6: kAyT86 (small blind) mucked [Qd Qs] - two pair, Queens and Twos
thepokerkid123
Visionary
Silver Level
I've played only a very limited quantity of rush (1.6k hands), truthfully I've been avoiding it the last couple of days because cash games have me very tilted atm (the joys of micro stakes... lol) and tilting on rush would be a good way to wipe out a bankroll.
Still, I came up with some basic strategy adjustments.
Blind stealing/defending: Doesn't exist. People in the BB defend their blind with almost ATC, don't screw around with blind stealing just do it with a wide value range. The blinds that you actually may want to steal are the full stacks who are much more likely to be $10nl regs who as a group are weak-tight and smart enough not to over defend blinds.
C-betting: Not sure on the specifics on how to make this proffitable but some people are floating really, really light. Some are playing fit or fold. Definately high card flops are dangerous to c-bet into if you miss them (since ranges are generally so nitty that they're mostly high cards/mid-high pocket pairs). Really low flops are generally best to check back with a decent ace or low pocket pair (low pocket pair intending to check-call to showdown most of the time), if you've got a decent pair (88+) then just value town it against AQ+, 22-77. Connected flops... not sure, it's been a few days since I played rush and the memories are lost after the micro stakes cash game madness.
As a general rule though, make your c-bets small with air and big with a hand. Like 1/2 pot with air and 3/4 to pot size with a hand. People are either playing fit or fold or floating like crazy and rarely if ever paying attention to the size of your bet.
Pre-flop shove ranges: Be nitty, once people have a hand they don't like folding for this reason AK isn't a hand you want to play for stacks with. QQ+ and to be honest I don't entirely disagree with KK+. Short stacks obviously allow for a wider range.
Playable range: I was using a very set in stone range of all pocket pairs raising to 5bb (I'm playing like 10% of hands, my pre-flop raise should be big), also AK/AQ/AJ, I really don't like AQ/AJ and have been near break even with AK but I think as long as you're not c-betting in bad spots like I was then AQ/AJ can definately be proffitable.
Pump it or dump it: Don't slowplay, don't make marginal call downs. If you've got it, get it in. If you don't, just fold. Let's say you've got JJ on an AT6 flop, calling down may be proffitable but it's not very proffitable and it's high variance. Look for a cheap showdown and if you can't get that, just fold and look for another hand. Sacrificing bb/100 for more hands is generally good in rush, also reducing variance will probably save you money anyway because if you don't you're likely to smash your computer against the wall or something which means bb/0 and paying for a new computer.
Still, I came up with some basic strategy adjustments.
Blind stealing/defending: Doesn't exist. People in the BB defend their blind with almost ATC, don't screw around with blind stealing just do it with a wide value range. The blinds that you actually may want to steal are the full stacks who are much more likely to be $10nl regs who as a group are weak-tight and smart enough not to over defend blinds.
C-betting: Not sure on the specifics on how to make this proffitable but some people are floating really, really light. Some are playing fit or fold. Definately high card flops are dangerous to c-bet into if you miss them (since ranges are generally so nitty that they're mostly high cards/mid-high pocket pairs). Really low flops are generally best to check back with a decent ace or low pocket pair (low pocket pair intending to check-call to showdown most of the time), if you've got a decent pair (88+) then just value town it against AQ+, 22-77. Connected flops... not sure, it's been a few days since I played rush and the memories are lost after the micro stakes cash game madness.
As a general rule though, make your c-bets small with air and big with a hand. Like 1/2 pot with air and 3/4 to pot size with a hand. People are either playing fit or fold or floating like crazy and rarely if ever paying attention to the size of your bet.
Pre-flop shove ranges: Be nitty, once people have a hand they don't like folding for this reason AK isn't a hand you want to play for stacks with. QQ+ and to be honest I don't entirely disagree with KK+. Short stacks obviously allow for a wider range.
Playable range: I was using a very set in stone range of all pocket pairs raising to 5bb (I'm playing like 10% of hands, my pre-flop raise should be big), also AK/AQ/AJ, I really don't like AQ/AJ and have been near break even with AK but I think as long as you're not c-betting in bad spots like I was then AQ/AJ can definately be proffitable.
Pump it or dump it: Don't slowplay, don't make marginal call downs. If you've got it, get it in. If you don't, just fold. Let's say you've got JJ on an AT6 flop, calling down may be proffitable but it's not very proffitable and it's high variance. Look for a cheap showdown and if you can't get that, just fold and look for another hand. Sacrificing bb/100 for more hands is generally good in rush, also reducing variance will probably save you money anyway because if you don't you're likely to smash your computer against the wall or something which means bb/0 and paying for a new computer.
R
Ricky747
Rising Star
Silver Level
I can echo both of these points, as well as the one about getting your monsters folded around often. I haven't played a ton yet, though.
Vfranks
Legend
Silver Level
Yeah I agree with taking notes, as I don't have a HUD. I see the same players again, and alot of times they try the same old thing. Like note if they called a bet on flop then folded turn, or called me down to river and let go of it. Simple things like that. especially take notes on the guys u see playing speculative hands oop, because I see some of these people playing a wide range from any pos.10nlrush..I'm putting colors on them to...Purple for bad, Orange for average losing, Yellow for decent, and Red for shark... I think I have forgoten about yellow until now...so I had just been using purple orange and red. I also have been noting people I see with HUGE stacks, and then I see them later and they have a 100bb stack, and are playing really lose. So I think some of the HUGE stacks are laggy players, but not all of them, and that's another place where any note on the player can help you out. Also on the shortstackers, if you see them showdown a hand, note whether they are playing a shortstack strategy, or just a donk that doesnt buy-in for full and chases with 40-50bb stacks lol.
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forsakenone
Legend
Silver Level
i have been playing for 3 days now, rush poker only, hours a day, problem is this, loads of bluffing, and you will get a lot of people that just wont fold, and go all in with 8 10 and give you a beat beat. i was up about 35$ at 10nl, busted 20 in like 10 mins, when i lost 3 coin flips in a row, now taking a break.
on a serios note, i really believe that only full tilt is winning, dont think people can show a really good profit at rush poker, maybe a couple of buyins, but in time, no really worthed profit.
on a serios note, i really believe that only full tilt is winning, dont think people can show a really good profit at rush poker, maybe a couple of buyins, but in time, no really worthed profit.
PattyR
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
interesting points about not doing too much blind stealing..i was obsessed with blind stealing to begin with but it seems now that everybody in the BB calls with ANYTHING..and than your stuck playin your shit hand that you raised with.
Kasanova King
Visionary
Silver Level
Yeah, this past week it has been harder to steal from late position. I've actually been able to counter it (although somewhat dangerous) by raising post flop after the bb c bets into you....typically a 3x raise will get them to fold whatever cr@p they're trying to defend their blind with. If they don't fold, typically they will be scared to bet again so at least you'll get to see a showdown.
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Kasanova King
Visionary
Silver Level
I'm just going by flop% since PT3 doesn't work on Rush yet, and usually, my average winning session has been around 15% of flops seen. I play them aggressively so I'm guessing my numbers would be around 14/12/40 - best guesstimate.
cardplayer52
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
HEM only uses old stats you had and only updates into the FTP note after you export your hand histories. PT3's HUD actually seems to update after each hand and displays an updted HUD for all the players at your current table that you got stats on. If your playing rush and have a choice it seems PT3 is the way to go. And there is now 2 different "rush" poker videos on cardrunners.
dontshiveagit
Rock Star
Silver Level
yea you can steal alot of blinds because people start playing much tighter in order to fold until they hit the monsters. I also noticed you can bet alot more preflop because people tend to have much better starting hands and will pay to see the flop.
bullishwwd
Legend
Loyaler
I agree and like your logic "except that my card range is wider" and I play it more like I would play a Heads Up, but I do fold after flop if I have not bettered the hand and they raise...any bluffing is done "before the flop" with 3 to 4 BB raise.
Sean Pilgrim
Legend
Silver Level
My Strategy For This Type of Game:
Again, this doesn't work for everyone and there may be some disagreement.
Hand Selection:
Stick to premium hands and all pairs with intention to set mine.
AA KK QQ JJ AKs AQs AJs ATs AKo AQo AJo TT 99 88 77 66 55 44 33 22
Be the Pre-flop Raiser:
You are showing plenty of weakness by limping/over limping/min raising, which will get taken advantage of, if you don't want to raise the hand you're dealt, you shouldn't be in the hand.
C-Bet Effectiveness:
Picking up small pots all adds up, if there's a few limpers you're in the CO with AKs Axs Raise it up. Get "potential hands" out of the way. Generally deep stacks will play into a C-bet and short stacks will fold to them. Short stacks will generally also take over the hand if you check into them. So you have AKs in the CO, got 2 limpers that flatted the raise the flop is Axx, Kxx, Qxx, Jxx ... if you miss just c-bet if checked to from the limpers. Limpers are generally just weak players.
Position:
Generally, we'd all love to be on the button, every hand. I believe the 3 key positions in this game are: Button, SB, and BB. For this game to be profitable it is essential to play tight.
3-Betting
I Always 3 Bet In Position with: AA KK QQ JJ TT AKs AQs AJs AKo AQo AJo ATs TT. I will 3 bet into a player in/out of position with a less than 60-50bb stack with AA KK QQ JJ TT AKs AQs AJs AKo AQo AJo ATs TT 99 88 77 66 55 44 33 22. Reason being they either bought in short, or they see too many flops and just suck at life in general. In either case bully them
4 Betting:
Always 4 Bet with: AA KK obviously.
4 Bet Calling
If you are 4-bet into AK AQ AJ AK AT, 80% of the time are behind to at least a Mid/High Pocket Pair and at worse AKs. Easy folds. I don't think I can merit calling a 4 bet out of position with PP from 22 - 77 (although hitting your set would definitely, get paid off). While holding high pocket pairs, (ie: QQ, JJ) if you are 4 bet into out of position. Flat the 4-bet, don't throw all your chips in the middle, you will only get called by KK or AA or AK in most cases, and given it's harder to track players actions via rush, I would give them the benefit of the doubt unless you have history on that player. The purpose of flatting a 4-bet is now you are trying to set mine with QQ JJ TT etc. to make a better hand. For instance last night $25NL UTG+2 raises pot to .85 folds to me on the button w/ QQ I reraise raise is now at $3.50, UTG+2 re-raises to $9, If I stack off I'm either against another high PP, Higher PP, or AKs (depending on the player), in which case QQ is easily behind. Now there's two reasons to flat here. If the flop is low, and the original raiser checks to you, that screams AK AQ AJ etc. and betting here would be the correct play in most cases unless he's going for a check raise, in which case that screams AA KK as well. I flat the $9. Flop: 8c 9d Qh. UTG+2 stacks off, I call knowing I have the best hand and he's drawing to 2 outs, usually no way in hell he's playing JT here. His AA never improved and I picked up a deep stack.
Ratholing Your Profits:
I know this is what some people are doing but there are advantages and disadvantages to doing it and not doing it. If you are 4 buy-in's deep your ability to get players to fold and being able to pull of bluffs increases tremendously! This gives you the opportunity to pick your battles against weaker players who tremble at the sight of a $150 stack at $25NL. The down side. If you are in a hand with another deep stack, you could lose it all if you are not careful. I generally just tend to avoid playing against deep stacks because they are usually not shitty players (unless otherwise noted).
Advantages of Ratholing: You save your profits, and rebuy for the initial investment of $Buy-In.
Disadvantages: (Outweigh the Advantages): You're effective stack is 100bb, depending on what limits you are playing your stack size means a lot about your playing. A player who is deep stacked will get more respect for their hands and players will play more cautiously. You are in a hand with a deep stack and you have not played a hand together yet in rush Villain has a gut feeling you are an over aggressive maniac and looks you up. Calls your bluff, calls you OOP with suited connectors, flops 2 pair... beats you.
Playing Stacks:
You want to avoid deep stacks unless you have AA KK, they are tight and know what they are doing and will let you stack of top two against their set. Unlike the players with a minimum buy in or less than 10-30bb stacks who will shove with TP no kicker. Chip counts generally can be your use of measurement for player skill.
The Most Important Thing For Rush: NOTES!
If you had AKo in the SB re-raise initial raiser in Mid-position and he comes over the top of you again for a 4-bet, put a note on him that he 4-bet into you and you folded AKo. If you run into him again if he pulls the same line, either 1. He's had a big hand the past few hands you've both been in, 2. He's a maniac and GOGOGO!.
Again, this doesn't work for everyone and there may be some disagreement.
Hand Selection:
Stick to premium hands and all pairs with intention to set mine.
AA KK QQ JJ AKs AQs AJs ATs AKo AQo AJo TT 99 88 77 66 55 44 33 22
Be the Pre-flop Raiser:
You are showing plenty of weakness by limping/over limping/min raising, which will get taken advantage of, if you don't want to raise the hand you're dealt, you shouldn't be in the hand.
C-Bet Effectiveness:
Picking up small pots all adds up, if there's a few limpers you're in the CO with AKs Axs Raise it up. Get "potential hands" out of the way. Generally deep stacks will play into a C-bet and short stacks will fold to them. Short stacks will generally also take over the hand if you check into them. So you have AKs in the CO, got 2 limpers that flatted the raise the flop is Axx, Kxx, Qxx, Jxx ... if you miss just c-bet if checked to from the limpers. Limpers are generally just weak players.
Position:
Generally, we'd all love to be on the button, every hand. I believe the 3 key positions in this game are: Button, SB, and BB. For this game to be profitable it is essential to play tight.
3-Betting
I Always 3 Bet In Position with: AA KK QQ JJ TT AKs AQs AJs AKo AQo AJo ATs TT. I will 3 bet into a player in/out of position with a less than 60-50bb stack with AA KK QQ JJ TT AKs AQs AJs AKo AQo AJo ATs TT 99 88 77 66 55 44 33 22. Reason being they either bought in short, or they see too many flops and just suck at life in general. In either case bully them
4 Betting:
Always 4 Bet with: AA KK obviously.
4 Bet Calling
If you are 4-bet into AK AQ AJ AK AT, 80% of the time are behind to at least a Mid/High Pocket Pair and at worse AKs. Easy folds. I don't think I can merit calling a 4 bet out of position with PP from 22 - 77 (although hitting your set would definitely, get paid off). While holding high pocket pairs, (ie: QQ, JJ) if you are 4 bet into out of position. Flat the 4-bet, don't throw all your chips in the middle, you will only get called by KK or AA or AK in most cases, and given it's harder to track players actions via rush, I would give them the benefit of the doubt unless you have history on that player. The purpose of flatting a 4-bet is now you are trying to set mine with QQ JJ TT etc. to make a better hand. For instance last night $25NL UTG+2 raises pot to .85 folds to me on the button w/ QQ I reraise raise is now at $3.50, UTG+2 re-raises to $9, If I stack off I'm either against another high PP, Higher PP, or AKs (depending on the player), in which case QQ is easily behind. Now there's two reasons to flat here. If the flop is low, and the original raiser checks to you, that screams AK AQ AJ etc. and betting here would be the correct play in most cases unless he's going for a check raise, in which case that screams AA KK as well. I flat the $9. Flop: 8c 9d Qh. UTG+2 stacks off, I call knowing I have the best hand and he's drawing to 2 outs, usually no way in hell he's playing JT here. His AA never improved and I picked up a deep stack.
Ratholing Your Profits:
I know this is what some people are doing but there are advantages and disadvantages to doing it and not doing it. If you are 4 buy-in's deep your ability to get players to fold and being able to pull of bluffs increases tremendously! This gives you the opportunity to pick your battles against weaker players who tremble at the sight of a $150 stack at $25NL. The down side. If you are in a hand with another deep stack, you could lose it all if you are not careful. I generally just tend to avoid playing against deep stacks because they are usually not shitty players (unless otherwise noted).
Advantages of Ratholing: You save your profits, and rebuy for the initial investment of $Buy-In.
Disadvantages: (Outweigh the Advantages): You're effective stack is 100bb, depending on what limits you are playing your stack size means a lot about your playing. A player who is deep stacked will get more respect for their hands and players will play more cautiously. You are in a hand with a deep stack and you have not played a hand together yet in rush Villain has a gut feeling you are an over aggressive maniac and looks you up. Calls your bluff, calls you OOP with suited connectors, flops 2 pair... beats you.
Playing Stacks:
You want to avoid deep stacks unless you have AA KK, they are tight and know what they are doing and will let you stack of top two against their set. Unlike the players with a minimum buy in or less than 10-30bb stacks who will shove with TP no kicker. Chip counts generally can be your use of measurement for player skill.
The Most Important Thing For Rush: NOTES!
If you had AKo in the SB re-raise initial raiser in Mid-position and he comes over the top of you again for a 4-bet, put a note on him that he 4-bet into you and you folded AKo. If you run into him again if he pulls the same line, either 1. He's had a big hand the past few hands you've both been in, 2. He's a maniac and GOGOGO!.
T
TimmyOtool
Enthusiast
Silver Level
For the majority of these games there are a lot of people just playing and having fun, it is pretty difficult to track who is a decent player, or who is just waiting to dump money.
Out of all the games I've played on FTP, PLO/LHE/HU/6max/FR limits ranging from 0.01/0.02 - $1/2, i've made the most money by far from RUSH FR almost 5x my original bankroll already. (Not to mention rakeback)
Sean's advice is VERY good almost bang on especially the hand selections.
I will add some points to his list:
1. Make note of who is multi-tabling at the current RUSH game, these people will GENERALLY keep in line, but you can be assured they will be more experienced players and be tougher customers in general.
2. Obviously difficult to keep track of the opponents your playing, but again NOTES are key, you will see some of the same faces over and over again especially higher up in the RUSH stakes. You will have some history with some opponents so keep accurate notes and player tendencies.
3. Almost always come in raising, limping is just terrible unless your in position facing several limpers with a high implied odds hand. ie. 22/54s etc
4. Not a lot of people 4-bet light at RUSH because people will just let hands go and proceed to the next hand, however, this can be profitable. Obviously, 4-bet AA/KK, however I will occasionally 4-bet light with small pairs/Axo/Axs/Kxo/Kxs with the intention of folding to a shove since most players will realize that the 4-bet will usually mean AK and QQ+, so 5-bet shove will rarely be worse then that especially with deep stacks. This is very player and situation dependent.
5. Play in POSITION! This is probably more important then having awesome cards. Playing a hand like 22-88 UTG is not going to work out very well a high percentage of the time. Your going to just be check/folding most flops anyways. While the same hand in position is much more favorable obviously.
6. Setmining. Definately a staple in all players handbooks, BUT don't go mindlessly calling 4xBB raises from late position in the SB w/ hands like 55 hoping to flop the set and stack your late position raiser. The reality is... a lot of these late position raisers are just stealing blinds and their holdings are marginal. Even if you flop the set your rarely going to stack him, and the instances where you miss, you will check/fold. Doesn't sound too good.... Multi-way pots and EP raisers will give you the best chance at doubling through if you hit a set, keep the small pairs in the muck elsewise OR 3-bet/4-bet light with them
7. Definately believe a TAG style is the BEST way to play this game, a LAG style might take down more small pots, but a strong TAG will not lose in the long run to a LAG IMO.
8. Remain calm under all circumstances, you'll forget your last in about 5mins.
All I could think about right now, but definately takes some time to get use to, but there is much profit to be made from RUSH poker. Bad beats happen and you'll see TONS of it, but keep the losses small and book the wins.
Out of all the games I've played on FTP, PLO/LHE/HU/6max/FR limits ranging from 0.01/0.02 - $1/2, i've made the most money by far from RUSH FR almost 5x my original bankroll already. (Not to mention rakeback)
Sean's advice is VERY good almost bang on especially the hand selections.
I will add some points to his list:
1. Make note of who is multi-tabling at the current RUSH game, these people will GENERALLY keep in line, but you can be assured they will be more experienced players and be tougher customers in general.
2. Obviously difficult to keep track of the opponents your playing, but again NOTES are key, you will see some of the same faces over and over again especially higher up in the RUSH stakes. You will have some history with some opponents so keep accurate notes and player tendencies.
3. Almost always come in raising, limping is just terrible unless your in position facing several limpers with a high implied odds hand. ie. 22/54s etc
4. Not a lot of people 4-bet light at RUSH because people will just let hands go and proceed to the next hand, however, this can be profitable. Obviously, 4-bet AA/KK, however I will occasionally 4-bet light with small pairs/Axo/Axs/Kxo/Kxs with the intention of folding to a shove since most players will realize that the 4-bet will usually mean AK and QQ+, so 5-bet shove will rarely be worse then that especially with deep stacks. This is very player and situation dependent.
5. Play in POSITION! This is probably more important then having awesome cards. Playing a hand like 22-88 UTG is not going to work out very well a high percentage of the time. Your going to just be check/folding most flops anyways. While the same hand in position is much more favorable obviously.
6. Setmining. Definately a staple in all players handbooks, BUT don't go mindlessly calling 4xBB raises from late position in the SB w/ hands like 55 hoping to flop the set and stack your late position raiser. The reality is... a lot of these late position raisers are just stealing blinds and their holdings are marginal. Even if you flop the set your rarely going to stack him, and the instances where you miss, you will check/fold. Doesn't sound too good.... Multi-way pots and EP raisers will give you the best chance at doubling through if you hit a set, keep the small pairs in the muck elsewise OR 3-bet/4-bet light with them
7. Definately believe a TAG style is the BEST way to play this game, a LAG style might take down more small pots, but a strong TAG will not lose in the long run to a LAG IMO.
8. Remain calm under all circumstances, you'll forget your last in about 5mins.
All I could think about right now, but definately takes some time to get use to, but there is much profit to be made from RUSH poker. Bad beats happen and you'll see TONS of it, but keep the losses small and book the wins.