Book Review and Study Group Discussion: Crushing the Microstakes

nabmom

nabmom

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@Debpes and BR (if you're still here), I finished re-reading Part 1 (intro ppgs 1-53), and don't really have much in the way of questions. How about you, Debpes?

Also, I'm FAR from a computer genius, so if I were to ever get to the stage where I felt I needed AHK or Table Ninja, I guess I'd go the TN route. Do you use either of these Debpes?

The one thing I'd like to discuss a bit is player types. I think that we need to be aware of who we're playing against in a hand, and, at least when you have a HUD, knowing the player type can determine certain ways we act (which = BB/100 rate).

I play for cash only on Carbon, and there I have been tagging players. It's about my bedtime now, but I will write more tomorrow to discuss the types that CTM talks about. I'll also note what I've picked up on the various types and how I adjust my play.

At the stakes I play (baby micros) and since I'm far from a full-time player, I haven't felt a need to have any kind of software support for picking tables. For new players I certainly think that they should invest in a HUD, but I wouldn't go for more than that at this point.
 
nabmom

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I am interested, but Saturday is out for me that's why I wasn't around. Late on a weeknight would be best for me, but I don't expect everyone to work around my schedule, so I was just going to reread through whatever happened.

Does late on a Friday work for you AH? Most other weeknights, I turn into a pumpkin around this time of night (10 PM Eastern) but Friday nights and every other Thursday could work for "late on a weeknight."
 
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Big_Rudy

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Ok, Debpes, I'll be looking forward to your questions/thoughts/discussion. I have HM1 and have used it for quite awhile. I tried the free trial of HM2, but was totally lost with that program. When they discontinue support for HM1, I'll probably switch to PT3.
 
nabmom

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Ok, Debpes, I'll be looking forward to your questions/thoughts/discussion. I have HM1 and have used it for quite awhile. I tried the free trial of HM2, but was totally lost with that program. When they discontinue support for HM1, I'll probably switch to PT3.

By then they'll probably be on PT4! :)

Sorry to promise discussion and then make you wait, but I doubt I can provide much coherent thought at this time of night (day of work plus afternoon/evening of teenagers and my brain is fried!).

I'll be back tomorrow afternoon and make this actually meaningful.
 
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Big_Rudy

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Does late on a Friday work for you AH? Most other weeknights, I turn into a pumpkin around this time of night (10 PM Eastern) but Friday nights and every other Thursday could work for "late on a weeknight."

I can pretty much be available any time/ any day/night that works for everyone else if we want to have a structured time where we all meet. I'm also OK with just dropping in and catching-up with each other and answering/posing questions as time permits. Whatever the group decides. We also need to consider what Nathan wants to do and what he envisions this study group to be like.
 
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Big_Rudy

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Sorry to promise discussion and then make you wait, but I doubt I can provide much coherent thought at this time of night (day of work plus afternoon/evening of teenagers and my brain is fried!).

Not a problem at all. Looking forward to it. Have a good night.
 
nabmom

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Player Types

Why is this important? New players should start by focusing on how to play their own hands (pre-flop hand selection, recognizing outs and when you have the nuts, etc.) but then quickly move on to how to play against opponents’ hands

What do you mean by player types?
Based upon their general poker-playing styles, there are some generalizations you can make about how opponents will react in various situations. Recognizing these styles can help you make better decisions and also exploit flaws in your opponents’ play.
How do I identify the player types?
As you play multiple hands and sessions against opponents, you can note how often they are playing a hand, how often they are raising when they play a hand (versus just limping in), how often they fold to a c-bet, etc. Search the forums for HUD or HEM or PT3 and you’ll find lots of information. Also search for an explanation of what the various stats mean (beyond the scope of this discussion).

Crushing the Microstakes (CTM) discusses players as follows, in a continuum of roughly tight-playing to loose-playing players. Note that terminology here is not unique to this book; these are standard terms for player types. Note also that the LAG style (loose-aggressive) is not discussed in CTM. Maybe BlackRain can discuss more here why he preferred to leave this out of the book.
Nits:
  • Tight and play only their best hands
  • Stats like 10/8 full ring (FR); maybe up to 14/12 at 6-max?
  • Only get aggressive when they have the nuts
  • Will fold often to steals and c-bets
  • Exploit: You can push them off speculative hands by stealing their blinds and c-betting against them often
  • Watch out: If they push back, they probably have a good hand
TAGs:
  • Tight Aggressive
  • Considered by CTM (and many others) to be the optimal playing style.
  • Still tight but play some speculative hands along with their best hands
  • Stats like 15/12 FR; maybe up to 19-20/17-18 at 6-max?
  • Will still fold often to c-bets
  • Exploit: Hard to exploit and CTM suggests we try to avoid being in a hand with these types of players.
SLPs:
  • Semi-loose passive
  • Casual type of somewhat educated player.
  • Play more hands than are optimal and often call too much (as opposed to folding or raising)
  • Stats like 24/6 full ring (FR); I think the same at 6-max?
  • Exploit: They tend to call with draws and non-nut hands. Value bet frequently against them and with a wider range than you would against a solid player.
  • Watch out: According to CTM, they aren’t helping you print money like the loose players are
Fish:
  • Purely recreational players and want to play lots of pots.
  • Loose and play a very wide range of hands
  • Very passive and very sticky with hands once they have anything
  • Stats like 55/4 full ring (FR); I think the same at 6-max (they have no positional awareness and play the same game whenever they play
  • Will rarely fold to steals, 3-bet,s and c-bets
  • Tend to make tiny bets with their weak hands and big bets with their good hands
  • Exploit: Value bet, value bet, value bet
  • Watch out: DO NOT BLUFF. You can have a board with an A, flush, and straight potential and that won’t slow them down from playing to the river with their pair of 6s. They don’t recognize a scare card.
Maniacs:
  • Purely recreational players and want to play lots of pots.
  • Loose and play a very wide range of hands
  • Very aggressive and very sticky with hands once they have anything
  • Stats like 93/78 full ring (FR); I think the same at 6-max (they have no positional awareness and play the same game whenever they play)
  • Will rarely fold to steals, 3-bet,s and c-bets
  • Exploit: Value bet, value bet, value bet
  • Watch out: DO NOT BLUFF.
 
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Big_Rudy

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Wow, someone put a LOT of work in here. Thanks, Debpes. You've put together a pretty nice outline of the player types. I'm pretty much in agreement with all of them.

One thing that it does bring-out is that, even at the lowest stakes, you'll be most profitable moving away from a strictly ABC-style of poker to a more villain-dependant, exploitive style. In other words, if you attack the SLP in the same manner you attack the nit (with the same range of hands), you might as well be burning money.

On the simplest level, this is because you can often push the nit off his hand almost regardless of what cards you hold (he will usually let you know if he has something). If you try the same thing against the SLP (widely-known as "calling stations"), you'd better have at least some kind of hand because he's not likely folding to your bets.

I think Nathan didn't discuss LAGs in "Crushing..." because his opinion is that you'll rarely see them at the lower levels. TBH, given the current poker climate in the US, I feel that thinking my be a little dated. The games have gotten noticeably tougher lately, particularly on sites that cater to US players where a large portion of the casual player pool has simply given up the game, while the "regs" continue chugging along.

Having said that, I still think its fairly rare to see a "good" LAG at the lowest levels. There are, however, a fair amount of poor LAGs, imo. I classify them as something of a "mini-maniac". Their stats won't be the 90/80 you've allotted to the maniacs, but will be more like 40/30, or 50/40. The difficult part, imo, is determining if they are "good" LAGs or, more typically, bad LAGs. That's not always easy for me to do, especially if I'm multi-tabling with stacked tables so I can't watch them closely.

Beyond that, I'm not sure where you want to go with this. Maybe discuss the styles that give you the most trouble, why they are difficult for you to play against, and counter-measures? Not sure if that's what you really wanted or not.

Anyway, you've put together a pretty nice outline there. Thanks.
 
alaskabill

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Great post by depbes.

@BigRudy:

Personally I just wouldn't worry too much about dealing with good players at the micro stakes there just aren't that many and the ones that are there (a good US reg on Merge playing lower since Black Friday) should stick out like a sore thumb.

If you are having trouble identifying them, are you using a hud? Their stats should give them away even if you are multi tabling. If you still can't tell for sure you could always reduce the number of tables that you are playing.

As for the info in the book being dated, don't forget that he isn't just writing for US players. The rest of the world still gets to play on Stars, party poker etc where there are certainly more fish. Everything isn't always going to be geared just to the American player.

BTW BigRuday, props to you. You have spurred some nice discussion on the book/micro play through your initiative. Congrats and keep it up. :)
 
nabmom

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One thing that it does bring-out is that, even at the lowest stakes, you'll be most profitable moving away from a strictly ABC-style of poker to a more villain-dependant, exploitive style. In other words, if you attack the SLP in the same manner you attack the nit (with the same range of hands), you might as well be burning money.

I think what we need is a combination. Playing a very ABC style, because that's what works best. Then adding to that situational play based on the player type you are facing. I guess it could be dubbed "thoughtful exploitation" (just coined that myself and I like it!)

The difficult part, imo, is determining if they are "good" LAGs or, more typically, bad LAGs. That's not always easy for me to do, especially if I'm multi-tabling with stacked tables so I can't watch them closely.

To piggyback on what Alaskabill said, I think a HUD is essential for all but the most casual player. That helps with getting a handle on player types when you're moving across multiple tables.

I find that I'm most comfortable with 4-5 tables max. I can keep an eye on various players and get a sense of what's happening on the tables. I have my Carbon tables cascaded on my laptop screen (left side) and then pull out any table of specific interest at a given moment to the right side of my screen. I also find that more tables is less fun for me-- I like to keep an eye on the chat (helps to see when someone is on tilt and I'm assuming that players that are chatting are not likely to be multi-tabling).

Beyond that, I'm not sure where you want to go with this. Maybe discuss the styles that give you the most trouble, why they are difficult for you to play against, and counter-measures? Not sure if that's what you really wanted or not.

Sorry. I should have indicated why I wanted to have some of our discussion be about this. I wanted to see if you and others here agree on the categorization of the types, the general stats that apply for 6-max (since BR's section on this talks about stats for FR), and then perhaps we could post some HHs that show some of this theory in action.

I had thought about linking to this post and making it its own thread, but I wasn't sure if that would simplify things or just make them more complicated!

Anyway, you've put together a pretty nice outline there. Thanks.

You're very welcome. I don't want to rewrite the book here (folks should go out and buy this one if they're playing at these levels) but I wanted to have a meaningful discussion with enough "meat."
 
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Big_Rudy

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Personally I just wouldn't worry too much about dealing with good players at the micro stakes there just aren't that many and the ones that are there (a good US reg on Merge playing lower since Black Friday) should stick out like a sore thumb.

Hmmm.... If you say so..... Troubling to me, though, that someone like our very own WVH is only a 10nl player. If that's the caliber of play at 10nl, post BF, then I haven't a chance. I think decent regs are FAR more present at 10nl than people think. (Again, talking US-specific here. Our ROW friends can feel free to ignore this:D )

If you are having trouble identifying them, are you using a hud? Their stats should give them away even if you are multi tabling. If you still can't tell for sure you could always reduce the number of tables that you are playing.

Mutli-tableing, yes, just barely... 3-4 tables at most. I always use a HUD, but rarely/never use the pop-ups. I need to work on that more. Its difficult for me to decide exactly which stats would separate a good/decent/winning LAG player from a poor one.

The basics (Vpip/pfr/3-bet, etc) really don't do the job since they'll look the same for both a good and bad LAG player. I need to figure out which stats would be most likely to tell me if a given LAG is just hyper-aggro all the time post-flop, or if he knows when to "throttle it back". But, things like that are, or should be, flop/opponent specific to the LAG and when his table is buried in a stack, I don't get to see a lot of flop textures than make-up his stats for a given session. I'll have to think about this. This is clearly the type of opponent that gives ME the most trouble.

As for the info in the book being dated, don't forget that he isn't just writing for US players. The rest of the world still gets to play on Stars, party poker etc where there are certainly more fish. Everything isn't always going to be geared just to the American player.

What choo talkin 'bout, Willis????? Of course everything IS geared to the American audience. I mean what else is there? (Relax, ROW players, just pulling your chain a little.....but it's so much fun;) ). In all seriousness, my comments were meant for a US-specific audience. I should have been more clear on that.

BTW BigRuday, props to you. You have spurred some nice discussion on the book/micro play through your initiative. Congrats and keep it up. :)

Awwww....shucks:eek: . Thanks.
 
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I think what we need is a combination. Playing a very ABC style, because that's what works best. Then adding to that situational play based on the player type you are facing. I guess it could be dubbed "thoughtful exploitation" (just coined that myself and I like it!)

I like it, too. And agree on optimal strategy is a mix.

I find that I'm most comfortable with 4-5 tables max. I can keep an eye on various players and get a sense of what's happening on the tables. I have my Carbon tables cascaded on my laptop screen (left side) and then pull out any table of specific interest at a given moment to the right side of my screen. I also find that more tables is less fun for me-- I like to keep an eye on the chat (helps to see when someone is on tilt and I'm assuming that players that are chatting are not likely to be multi-tabling).

I stack my tables so that they cover the entire screen. I'm really not understanding how you manage to cascade tables on a laptop and have room to pull anything out for closer observation. It would seem to me that your screen is already full with cascaded tables. I guess I just don't see how there is any room on the right side to pull a table out. But, whatever works for you.

To be clear, I'm playing on a CRT monitor :eek: (yes, you read that right I'm the last of the dinosaurs). It's a 19in. monitor and really isn't much bigger than a large-ish laptop screen. I'm also old and suffer from CSS (can't see sh_t) so I pretty-much have to run things at full-screen or I can't read my HUD.

I have toyed with the idea of getting a new, much larger monitor, but cats and the new LCD/LED monitors/TVs do NOT get along. Trust me on this. We bought a new 42in LCD TV for our living room, and within a week one of our cats had tried to jump up on it and destroyed the screen so.....

Sorry. I should have indicated why I wanted to have some of our discussion be about this. I wanted to see if you and others here agree on the categorization of the types, the general stats that apply for 6-max (since BR's section on this talks about stats for FR), and then perhaps we could post some HHs that show some of this theory in action.

That sounds good to me. I pretty-much agree with all your classifications, except as noted, I frequently see 40/30 type guys. TBH, I'm mostly playing ST SnGs right now instead of cash games. That was one of my reasons for wanting to get this thread/study group going. I'd be happy to work through some hands and stuff and get back into cash. My initial impression though, is for US players, cash games are MUCH tougher than pre-BF, even at the lowest levels. That's why I'm mostly at SnGs now.
 
Nathan Williams

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Hi again everyone. First off I am sorry that I haven't replied in awhile. I have been very busy and not around a computer much at all. I just read through all the replies here and I am just going to comment on a bunch of the general ideas being discussed. I want to thank Big_Rudy and debpes for keeping this thread going and getting the study group underway. Great job!

I think the three main points that I got from the discussion thus far are:
  1. Debpes's analysis of the player types in my book.
  2. The omission of the LAG player type in my book and how that relates to the games that Americans play on specifically on the Merge network.
  3. Big_Rudy talking about how to differentiate different types of LAG's and this player type giving him the most trouble.
1) I thought debpes's analysis of the different player types in my book was excellent as well. Regarding the transition to 6max, I agree with what was said. The numbers will need to be adjusted upwards a bit in most cases and debpes also does a good job of estimating them in her post as well.

Nits in 6max will probably be the same as a TAG in full ring, around 15/12. TAG's in 6max will be around 21/18. SLP will probably be a little closer to a 30/6 or so in 6max. Fish are about the same, look for 40+ VPIP and a low PFR. And maniacs will have similar numbers regardless of the game type.

2) As alaskabill stated I wrote this book mostly from the perspective of my experience playing on pokerstars. I am Canadian and so was not affected by BF. I do realize that there are some real differences in the playing environment for most American's these days however. I can't say that I have played extensively on Merge but enough to recognize that the games are certainly a fair bit more advanced compared to similar limits on a site like Stars. And the lack of table selection alone may have a lot to do with this.

I think there are plenty of nitty tables on Stars at every level, even NL2 but the difference is that it is a lot easier to get up a leave and find a different one. I commiserate with Americans who cannot do this. So regarding my book in general I always advocate that they follow the advice for NL5 and higher and not so much the NL2 stuff. Those circus like games are much harder to find.

As for LAG's and the omission of that player type from my book again it comes from my perspective of playing on Stars. I just haven't seen too many of them at least at full ring anywhere in the micros (NL50 and below). It's just mostly nits and TAG's with the odd fish or SLP here and there. I have been dabbling more into 6max lately though and I think they are more prevalent there. Also I know that they show up in the deep games quite routinely probably due to the increased EV of picking up a lot of antes. But all and all I just felt that there are far too little of them in general to bother discussing in my book.

3) So with the above said, LAG's have certainly popped up in my experience from time to time at the micros though. And Big_Rudy is right, there is a large continuum that they may play at that can make them difficult to adjust to. Using full ring numbers they could be anywhere from a 30/25 to a 50/45. I try not to consider somebody a maniac until their VPIP is over 50 because I don't think anyone playing a LAG style and trying to win will have a VPIP that is that high.

So at the higher end of this range they are going to be FOS an awful lot just due to the straight math on playing half your hands and how often you hit something in Hold'em. On the lower end they will still obviously be light a lot. It's really hard to say how much you should adjust between the two though because their aggressive play still makes them difficult to adjust against. And it is always important to remember that everybody get's sets, overpairs and big hands, not just nits.

So a couple of general things that I would suggest is to just try and not play that many hands against them like I suggest versus TAG's. Aggressive players, no matter how loose, will always be much harder to play against than passive players. If a LAG is on your direct left I would actually just get up and leave the table. It's just not worth it. Seat position is really of vital importance in poker and something that I think isn't talked about nearly enough. A LAG on your left versus a LAG on your right is a huge difference.

Secondly, just kind of use their aggression against them and don't feel obligated to play a big pot everytime. And having them on your right will go a long way to helping you out in this regard. If you are getting into lots of sticky situations versus them it is probably because they are on your left which makes it much easier for them to bluff raise you and make your life suck in general.

Something that I like to preach a lot about in my videos, book, with students etc. is that if you don't know what you are going to do if you get raised then just check or call. Don't put yourself in situations with decent (but somewhat marginal) hands versus them that will create a major headache should they raise you. Make your decisions easy versus them and all players for that matter. Bluff raise them with something that you don't mind throwing away. Or just wait for a nut type hand.

There are no easy answers versus these player types. You will never make a big amount off of them. You will make a big amount off of the fish. And that is why I think it is so important to focus on them. While the games are a lot tougher these days than they were even a few years ago regardless of the site, you can find fish all the way up to the highest limits. I know because I was working with a high stakes player myself last year and used to sweat him a lot at 5/10 and even higher sometimes on Stars. There are huge whales at every limit trust me. But they certainly are not on every table.

You need to get used to moving around a lot in today's online games if you want to have the most success. If there isn't a fish at the table, then you shouldn't be on it. And you should be laser focused on playing pots with them and themm only. Outplaying the regs will help your winrate but it will only ever be by a small amount. It just isn't worth bothering with to anywhere near the extent that I see on most forums these days. For me personally if the day comes when there are no fish (and I don't think that will happen by the way) I will quit poker.

Hope some of these thoughts help.
 
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Thanks for the response, Nathan. Table selecting and leaving if a LAG has position on me is definately something that I need to work on. Part of the reason that I made the move to 6-max from FR was simply because there are far fewer FR tables on Carbon, and those that are there are even more reg-infested than the 6-max ones. So it just seemed like the logical choice. (Again, US-centric opinion).

I don't mean to imply that the game is unbeatable now, far from it. I just think its noticeably tougher. For example pre-BF I was a Stars player (FR), and managed insane numbers at 2nl. Something like 15BB/100. Not wanting to take your title as the winningest micro-stakes player;) , I moved-up to 5nl pretty quickly. There I ran a more reasonable 6BB/100.

Do I think double-digit win rates are possible for a US player today, even at 4nl which is the lowest generally available? I'd say "no", or if at all, it would have to be a truely exceptional player. Is a reasonable win-rate still attainable? Absolutely, yes. In my brief experience with 6-max before moving to SnG's I ran about 5BB/100 at 4nl. This seems reasonable for me in today's climate for US-based players, and I'm far from good.
 
Nathan Williams

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Ya I totally hear you Rudy and agree for the most part. I think winrates are always changing so I am always hesitant to put a number on what is or is not attainable at any limit. But there is no question that the games have gotten much tougher in recent years and that small sites like Merge might even be worse off due to all the regs kind of being herded there and this perception perhaps among the fish that online poker is illegal and/or problems depositing. The ROW does feel for you guys and wish you could all come back to Stars etc.

I do think that there is an incredible amount of weak play at these lowest limits though that can be taken advantage of. You will get played back at a lot more at NL25 and higher where the players are quite a bit more capable. But at NL10 and below there are a lot of regs that really don't have any idea what they are doing besides playing tight. That really is their whole strategy "play tight."

I have made a lot of videos for DTB at NL10 and below and I am not allowed to play more than 4 tables at once. So it forces me to focus and really look for the highest EV and player specific line. I always play LAG because I have more time to think and my results have been outstanding almost every time. Definitely approaching or above double digit winrates at NL5 and NL10 I believe. At NL2 I don't even want to say because nobody would believe me. It was triple digits in the last video series that I made last month.

Now I do table select while making them and it is a small sample but I think the point remains. Big winrates are still attainable at these limits. You just need to play a different style these days.

Now my book is geared towards beginners and novices. I don't want them to go out and play like a maniac. I think it is a bad idea for many reasons. Probably the most important being mental. A lot of newer players do not react well to adversity (when the cards go bad on you). And if you play a LAG style, when you run bad, it is really, really bad.

All and all, do I think that the winrates attainable in today's games playing a perfect LAG style are close to where they were in the hay day of poker 5 years ago? No. But I don't think they are as far apart as some people think they are. And even at higher limits as well. I know many people that are beating the NL25 deep games on Stars for well over 5BB/100 and some approaching 10BB/100 over big samples.
 
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Ok, where are we at, and where are we going with this thread? Is everybody satisfied with our coverage of Part 1 (Introduction) and ready to move on to Part 2 (Pre-flop play)? As discussed, that is pages 54-111 in the book.

I don't mean to rush anyone, and if you have questions on Part 1, by all means, ask. Otherwise, or maybe in conjunction with that, you should begin reading Part 2, so that we can get some good discussion on that.

Thanks,
 
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