Grinderella's NEW Leak Series

Grinderella

Grinderella

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Dear Cardschat,


I’m writing this post to inspire beginners and struggling players to think about Poker in a different way. I’ve recently seen a huge improvement in my game and win rate. Not because of playing more hands or getting better at any particular skill, but because of taking the time out to study myself as a player, being on the rail and standing back to watch the action. Recently I decided to take a whole week off from playing at the tables. I did this because I wanted to spend the time studying my play (Instead of grinding away the day with the same leaks and bad habits). So I self excluded for 1 week and got started.


I sat down with a pen/pad, with the hand history replayer open and the HUD stats I had collected over a sample of 50,000 hands. I began looking into which hand types/categories were bleeding off my bb/100 and in which situations I was losing the most chips. What I found really surprised me, and I can guarantee that if you decide to do your own review and watch yourself playing, you will 100% improve as a player. You will at the very least get a good laugh out of watching yourself donking off stacks needlessly cause you were (Tired, Sick, Tilting, Angry, Suckout Steamed & Spewing, Depressed, Under Rolled, Underskilled, Entitled to the pot, playing too many tables … whatever) The list of excuses is infinite, your bankroll is not.



So here it is, the list of leaks I found in my week long hand history review. I hope that these help you to identify similar issues in your own game (assuming you haven’t plugged them already). I don't want to drown the forum in a massive amount of info so I will be posting leaks gradually when I am able to. I would rather they are more accurate than more frequent.


One last note before I get started, it is important especially for beginners to understand how I was able to get this information. So here is a very quick 5 step leak busting guide.



  • Open your HUD (Holdem Manager or Poker Tracker etc)
  • Go to the reports section and bring up the entire list of hand histories.
  • Filter by hands where money was lost and list in decreasing order (Worst losses at the top).
  • Filter by hand types (E.g Suited Connectors, Premiums, Gappers, Big Ace Hands etc etc) and list these in order of largest losses*.
  • Study each hand category carefully and make notes as you watch hands unfold. In these notes, write down what you think you did wrong and ask yourself: “In what table positions have I been losing money? With what kinds of hands have I been losing it? How can I use this knowledge to become a stronger player?” Once you have identified WHERE the leaks are, then you can begin to use books, forums and videos to learn HOW to plug them.


*The key thing here is knowing which kinds of hands that are causing you the most problems. This is crucial knowledge and will help you to decide which hands you need to trim from your ranges. Improving your pre-flop hand selections based on position will do wonders for your winrate.





DO YOU HAVE THIS LEAK?




Leak 1 - “Calling too many raises with suited 1,2 or 3 gappers”


Yes these hands can be monsters when they smash the flop, but they don’t hit often enough to make frequent calls/completes worth it. Also, wider gaps between ranks means less chance that the gaps will fill draws. My advice is to stick with suited connectors and dump the rest. I was playing way too many of these kinds of gapped spec hands and they were bleeding me dry. But maybe throw in the odd 1-2 gapper every so often to balance your range and throw off shrewd hand readers.


Just to cement what I am saying about playing gapper hands. I am not telling you to NEVER play them. I'm just highlighting how they could be signficantly leaking your bankroll if you're playing them too much. Here is a quick analysis I have made of gapper hands in general. My recommendations are as follows:



  • You could remove all the non-suited connectors from your range (Except broadways). Non-suited connectors are weak because they do not have the “backup equity” of suited connectors. When we flop an open ended draw, we would also like to have the possibility of hitting a flush in case the straight misses. Why would you go to any flop without this extra equity? Stay suited. It makes it easier to call cbets from aggressive opponent's when we can add extra outs for backdoor draws.



  • You could avoid playing suited connectors below 54s. The reason for this is mathematically very simple. See below.



A2s has only 1 way to complete a straight


A 2 3 4 5


32s only has 2 ways to complete a straight

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6


43s only has 3 ways to complete a straight

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7


54s and any small connectors above this always have at least 4 ways to complete a straight.

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8

65s

2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9

76s

3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9
6 7 8 9 T

Etc etc

So by staying at 54s and above, we ensure that we are always hitting the flop with maximum straight and flush equity. The only exception really is A2s which can make top pair or the nut flush, but you can use this hand to tune your range and add/remove it as you see fit. This advice does not apply to low M tourny situations or shortstacked bubble spots. In those cases you may have to move in vs. nitty blinds if your stack has fallen below critical (Even with suited gappers). They still have some equity vs. a strong range. With a healthy stack of 10bb+, you can be more selective.



Hope you enjoyed reading this leak and got something out of it. Any questions, please post them below.
 
Grinderella

Grinderella

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Suited Gapper Hands - Complete Analysis

Suited Connectors Study



(Zero Gappers or "Connectors")
---------------------------------


(A,2)

A 2 3 4 5


(2,3)

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6


(3,4)

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7


(4,5)

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8

(5,6)

2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9


(6,7)

3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9
6 7 8 9 T



`
` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` `
`



(T,J)

7 8 9 T J
8 9 T J Q
9 T J Q K
T J Q K A


(Q,J)


8 9 T J Q
9 T J Q K
T J Q K A


(K,Q)

9 T J Q K
T J Q K A


(A,K)


T J Q K A



Recommendations:

(2,3)
(3,4)

Could be removed from baby range as they cannot hit straights as strongly. They're also very weak on many boards due to higher ranks present.


(A,2) could be left in as it has the ability to complete nut flushes, and top pairs.


Interesting fact: (J,T) can flop more straights than (K,Q) but obviously KQ is more powerful.



The weak broadways like KQ and QJ could be added/removed as a way to tune the range against loose opponents. But don't discard them lightly .Athough slightly weaker for completing straights they can win with high card power.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Suited Connectors (1 Gappers)
---------------------------------


(A,3)

A 2 3 4 5


(2,4)

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6


(3,5)

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7


(4,6)

4 5 6 7 8
3 4 5 6 7
2 3 4 5 6




`
` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` `
`





(Q,T)

8 9 T J Q
9 T J Q K
T J Q K A


(K,J)


9 T J Q K
T J Q K A


(A,Q)


T J Q K A



Recommendations:



Maybe remove (2,4) from the range as it is only able to form 2 combinations of straights.


(A,3) should probably remain as it completes nut flushes and wheel draws.


(K,J) and (A,Q) should be played cautiously as they can be dominated. They also have slightly weaker straight making potential, but this is compensated for by their high-card power so it is up to you whether you want to use them to tune your range or not.







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Suited Connectors (2 Gappers)
---------------------------------


(A,4)

A 2 3 4 5


(2,5)

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6


(3,6)

2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7



`
` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` `
`





(Q,9)

8 9 T J Q
9 T J Q K


(K,T)


9 T J Q K
T J Q K A


(A,J)


T J Q K A



Recommendations:

A4o could be removed from your range as it can only complete 1 straight. But it does have Ace-power. Just keep in mind who you're up against. If it's a fishy station with an infinite range then use your judgement. But generally, I avoid this hand unless the blinds dictate otherwise.


A4s is great as it can complete a nut flush. This compensates for its weaker straight making ability.

(2,5)
(3,6)
(4,7)


52s 63s and 74s could be completely removed from the range if you wish as they are very weak but again it depends on the situation, and the opponent.


You could possibly begin including S2Gs higher than 85s as these begin to gain high card power and have greater showdown value as we go up. But use them sparingly.






Suited Connectors (3 Gappers)
---------------------------------


(A,5)

A 2 3 4 5


(2,6)

2 3 4 5 6


(3,7)


3 4 5 6 7



`
` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` ` `
` `
`





(Q,8)

8 9 T J Q


(K,9)


9 T J Q K


(A,T)


T J Q K A



A5o seems to be the weakest stright maker here. Always nice to have an Ace though. Up to you.


A5s can be played to complete a nut flush and fill a wheel draw. Always nice.


I would say that all 3 gappers below ATs except A5s could be added/removed as a way to tune the range. They're just too weak and don't hit enough boards often enough to show a steady profit.


K9s could be used for 3Bets on villains with high RFI/F3Bet/FFCBet as it can complete a King-High straight, nut flush and can also hit K boards as a reasonable but vulnerable kicker. Add/remove at your discretion.

Q9s could be added in to 3Bet superfish, but in general I would be folding it facing nitty action.




Hope this helps,


~* Grinderella *~


-------------------------------------
Variance Surfer, Valuetown IE.
Reg Grinder @ NL2 > NL25
4-Tabler of $7-$15 SNGs
Sunday Mill Shot Taker
 
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A

AlexTheOwl

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This is terrific advice, thank you and keep it up.
 
R

Rational Madman

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Oh wise one, you know it all... That's why you hide your usernames?

You are remaining anonymous why?
 
Grinderella

Grinderella

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Usernames

My usernames will be published after I have grinded out enough money not to care who knows them :)

G







Oh wise one, you know it all... That's why you hide your usernames?

You are remaining anonymous why?
 
A

AlexTheOwl

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Oh wise one, you know it all... That's why you hide your usernames?

You are remaining anonymous why?

Madman, people ask for your graphs (I don't) because you claim to be a great player, while giving advice that is sometimes absurd and mostly incomprehensible.

The whole premise of Grinderella's post is that he has flaws in his game that he is trying to fix. Then he lays out a logical system to fix those flaws, and shares what he has learned about one of his leaks.

He's not making any great claims about himself, and he's not talking gibberish. So no one feels compelled to ask for proof that he's a great player.
 
R

Rational Madman

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Madman, people ask for your graphs (I don't) because you claim to be a great player, while giving advice that is sometimes absurd and mostly incomprehensible.

The whole premise of Grinderella's post is that he has flaws in his game that he is trying to fix. Then he lays out a logical system to fix those flaws, and shares what he has learned about one of his leaks.

He's not making any great claims about himself, and he's not talking gibberish. So no one feels compelled to ask for proof that he's a great player.
I want proof that he is a player at all.
 
thatguy6793

thatguy6793

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I want proof that he is a player at all.

You know the person took time out of their day to offer advice and talk about their game and the only thing you can say is demanding to prove they exist, that's kinda messed up on your part. Just because you don't want to improve your game doesn't mean you have to attack any other advice that other people give. I've read your posts before and this seems like your normal attitude and all i got to say is get over yourself dude, the advice you give in no way proves you know everything (or much) about how to excel in poker so until you post your great graphs of billions of hands proving you won millions with all your perfect strategies don't reply to threads just to attack peoples questions/ideas/tips/leaks and I for one will be using this advice to help my own game because I want to keep improving.
 
rckstr2b

rckstr2b

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Dear Cardschat,


I’m writing this post to inspire beginners and struggling players to think about Poker in a different way. I’ve recently seen a huge improvement in my game and win rate. Not because of playing more hands or getting better at any particular skill, but because of taking the time out to study myself as a player, being on the rail and standing back to watch the action. Recently I decided to take a whole week off from playing at the tables. I did this because I wanted to spend the time studying my play (Instead of grinding away the day with the same leaks and bad habits). So I self excluded for 1 week and got started.


I sat down with a pen/pad, with the hand history replayer open and the HUD stats I had collected over a sample of 50,000 hands. I began looking into which hand types/categories were bleeding off my bb/100 and in which situations I was losing the most chips. What I found really surprised me, and I can guarantee that if you decide to do your own review and watch yourself playing, you will 100% improve as a player. You will at the very least get a good laugh out of watching yourself donking off stacks needlessly cause you were (Tired, Sick, Tilting, Angry, Suckout Steamed & Spewing, Depressed, Under Rolled, Underskilled, Entitled to the pot, playing too many tables … whatever) The list of excuses is infinite, your bankroll is not.



So here it is, the list of leaks I found in my week long hand history review. I hope that these help you to identify similar issues in your own game (assuming you haven’t plugged them already). I don't want to drown the forum in a massive amount of info so I will be posting leaks gradually when I am able to. I would rather they are more accurate than more frequent.


One last note before I get started, it is important especially for beginners to understand how I was able to get this information. So here is a very quick 5 step leak busting guide.



  • Open your HUD (Holdem Manager or Poker Tracker etc)
  • Go to the reports section and bring up the entire list of hand histories.
  • Filter by hands where money was lost and list in decreasing order (Worst losses at the top).
  • Filter by hand types (E.g Suited Connectors, Premiums, Gappers, Big Ace Hands etc etc) and list these in order of largest losses*.
  • Study each hand category carefully and make notes as you watch hands unfold. In these notes, write down what you think you did wrong and ask yourself: “In what table positions have I been losing money? With what kinds of hands have I been losing it? How can I use this knowledge to become a stronger player?” Once you have identified WHERE the leaks are, then you can begin to use books, forums and videos to learn HOW to plug them.


*The key thing here is knowing which kinds of hands that are causing you the most problems. This is crucial knowledge and will help you to decide which hands you need to trim from your ranges. Improving your pre-flop hand selections based on position will do wonders for your winrate.





DO YOU HAVE THIS LEAK?




Leak 1 - “Calling too many raises with suited 1,2 or 3 gappers”


Yes these hands can be monsters when they smash the flop, but they don’t hit often enough to make frequent calls/completes worth it. Also, wider gaps between ranks means less chance that the gaps will fill draws. My advice is to stick with suited connectors and dump the rest. I was playing way too many of these kinds of gapped spec hands and they were bleeding me dry. But maybe throw in the odd 1-2 gapper every so often to balance your range and throw off shrewd hand readers.


Just to cement what I am saying about playing gapper hands. I am not telling you to NEVER play them. I'm just highlighting how they could be signficantly leaking your bankroll if you're playing them too much. Here is a quick analysis I have made of gapper hands in general. My recommendations are as follows:



  • You could remove all the non-suited connectors from your range (Except broadways). Non-suited connectors are weak because they do not have the “backup equity” of suited connectors. When we flop an open ended draw, we would also like to have the possibility of hitting a flush in case the straight misses. Why would you go to any flop without this extra equity? Stay suited. It makes it easier to call cbets from aggressive opponent's when we can add extra outs for backdoor draws.



  • You could avoid playing suited connectors below 54s. The reason for this is mathematically very simple. See below.



A2s has only 1 way to complete a straight


A 2 3 4 5


32s only has 2 ways to complete a straight

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6


43s only has 3 ways to complete a straight

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7


54s and any small connectors above this always have at least 4 ways to complete a straight.

A 2 3 4 5
2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8

65s

2 3 4 5 6
3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9

76s

3 4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9
6 7 8 9 T

Etc etc

So by staying at 54s and above, we ensure that we are always hitting the flop with maximum straight and flush equity. The only exception really is A2s which can make top pair or the nut flush, but you can use this hand to tune your range and add/remove it as you see fit. This advice does not apply to low M tourny situations or shortstacked bubble spots. In those cases you may have to move in vs. nitty blinds if your stack has fallen below critical (Even with suited gappers). They still have some equity vs. a strong range. With a healthy stack of 10bb+, you can be more selective.



Hope you enjoyed reading this leak and got something out of it. Any questions, please post them below.



I’ve never seen it broken down in that way before. That’s really great. More please....
 
A

AviCKter

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Madman, people ask for your graphs (I don't) because you claim to be a great player, while giving advice that is sometimes absurd and mostly incomprehensible.

The whole premise of Grinderella's post is that he has flaws in his game that he is trying to fix. Then he lays out a logical system to fix those flaws, and shares what he has learned about one of his leaks.

He's not making any great claims about himself, and he's not talking gibberish. So no one feels compelled to ask for proof that he's a great player.

+1
 
Grinderella

Grinderella

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Thanks for the comments/replies. I fully expect to receive a variety of responses on my leak busting journey. It's always the ones who are here to help themselves, who give the most criticism. They want to climb the poker ladder and cut off all the rungs behind them. I choose to help and be helped as much as possible. You're welcome to look for mistakes. You won't find any. More leaks soon. G
 
MattRyder

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I like the idea of reviewing your own play - I do that myself.

I don't however like playing low connectors or gappers, suited or not. I will play them if in the blinds and am forced to see the flop for free, but if I'm at a table of good players they're not going to let me do that. All too often low straights and low flushes get beat by higher flushes and higher straights. If they're not beat it's usually hard to get a lot of money in the middle to cover all of the losses incurred by playing these low hands in the first place, IMHO.

And, all too often A2s hits an Ace and maybe a backdoor flush/inside straight draw. That's a recipe for draining your stack while rarely actually completing the flush or straight.

Also, I almost always hit a gutshot straight when playing any kind of connectors/gappers, but those straights rarely complete.
 
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Grinderella

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I see where you're coming from but it's important to keep this in mind. When you hold a hand with two cards of the same suit, then you have just reduced the number of possible suited hand combinations which your opponent can be dealt. While it is indeed a possibility that your flush will be beaten by a higher flush, it doesn't happen too often. The cards you have in your hand affect the board and villain hands much more than it may initially appear. People only tend to remember the rare few times that their flush was beaten by a higher flush, and they forget how many times they crushed an opponents straight with their K high / 7 high flush on other occasions. Your suited cards have made it more difficult for your opponent to have 2 cards of the same suit as yours. As for straights, how often do you suppose your opponent is going to beat you with a higher straight? Not often enough for it to be a huge concern on average. But of course you will run into various situations that seem unbelievable at the time ... but are totally normal when you play this game enough to see them all. You can't allow this to stop you from playing low connectors and suited cards completely, as never playing them would lose you more money on average than you would lose being beaten by higher straights/flushes. Overall, not all suited Gapper/connectors are created equal. Know which ones are worth seeing the flop with and in what situations and go from there.
 
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Grinderella

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You're welcome to look for mistakes. You won't find any. More leaks soon. G


I just want to add that this statement from me above is aimed at the content of Leak 1. I am by no means suggesting that I am mistake proof forever as this would be sheer arrogance. No one is perfect (except maybe Phil Ivey) and I am here to be corrected when I need to be. I work very hard on my posts/guides because I know how frustrating it is to study advice that later turns out to be wrong. This is not the case with my leak content. Anything you find in this series will have been checked meticulously and run past several advanced members who have kindly agreed to help out. I'm grateful for this as I love when errors get brought to my attention as they instantly become fixable from that moment on. I'm here to share my experience. Don't want anything in return. Just to be part of CC, and move up. Cheers. G
 
Grinderella

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Leak 2

Leak 2 - “Failing to interpret opponent ranges properly before acting”


During my hand history reviews I noticed many times where I made dumb 3Bet/5Bet shoves against players in EP whose ranges were absolutely crushing mine. I've included this situation as a leak because it happened more times than I was aware. In most of these situations I had a marginal strength hand and poor position. E.g 3Betting from the blinds with Axs/broadway hands. Sometimes I had good position on the BTN but held a weakish hand like KQs or ATs. These types of hands can be a lure for new and in experienced players, due to their pretty suitedness and broadwayness. When holding these hands I was already beginning to visualise my dream flops (J A T, K Q J) just about to hit! It was destiny, right? Wrong.


In these situations I was failing to take several key factors into account.



  • First. I had non-premium suited broadway hands in a lot of the Reg war situations (KQs QJs ATs KJs JTs KTs). I was actually amazed watching myself risking stack after stack with dominated junky broadways vs good regs. While these hands gave me some blockers against monster hands, this wasn't a huge advantage against these solid opponents. This is because they would only be raising me with the strongest of hands, ones which were easily dominating my range. But my over-confidence in my perceived hand strength was leading me into battles that I was doomed to lose.



  • Second. I was ignoring what kind of players I was up against in each spot. For instance. During many hands I was having a quick glance at VPIP/PFR stats and seeing that a player who was say a TAG 19/16 raising in from UTG1. I would mistakenly think to myself: "Well I have ATs which has an equity of 48% vs. this range so I'm fine here. Not too much worse than a coinflip. He's probably got some bluffs in his range anyway so I can't be too bad here". So I would go ahead and 3Bet and see what they did, and worst of all I would take muck worthy hands all the way without hardly thinking at all. Very much Level 0 thinking. And a clear indicator that Tilt was involved.



  • Overall, I failed to take into account how stats change positionally. Taking a deeper look at the 200 hands I had on him, it became clear that his EPPFR was actually only 3% compared to his total PFR of 16%. If we run this through flopzilla we see that a medium strength Ace like ATs has an equity of 29.8% against an oponent raising in with a 3% PFR. So I was in much worse shape with Ace-x type hands than I previously realised. This same logic applies to the other hands in the Brunson trouble range {KQs KJs KTs QJs QTs} which are likely to be dominated by a tight EPPFR range. Not a good situation to be in. And certainly not one that we wish to get aggressive in.




The lesson to take away from this leak is to make sure that we stop and think before we click call/raise buttons. Avoid strength and attack weakness. Avoid getting into stackoff wars with Nits/Regs unless the situation is +EV based on the ranges and stack/bet sizes involved.


Two good questions to ask when facing an action from any opponent are:


  • Where are they?
  • What range would take this action from this position?


Realise that good opponent's who are raising in KNOW they are going to be out of position (EP MP SB BB) for the remainder of the hand. Therefore they are likely to be taking this action with tighter ranges than they would if they had position on you for the rest of the hand (CO BTN). So EP1/EP2/MP1 open raises & 4bets made by tight solid players Vs. opponent's who are in position (CO, BTN) should be taken very seriously. The same goes for solid regs who are 3Betting/5-Betting you from the (SB BB). My winrate has benefitted enormously from me simply stopping to think and analysing the situation. This allows me to make the right folds in the right spots.


One caveat: When facing aggressive action from fishy players your weaker broadwayish hands will have more equity vs. their almost infinite ranges. So use your judgement and play smart. Also, during a 3Bet/4Bet/5Bet war you will sometimes need to make big calls with hands that don't seem up to the task. Your hand may be a dog vs. their range, but if the stack sizes and dead money on the table dictate a call then you should seize that +EV situation. The key is to know how likely it is that you are dominated or not, as this will have an enormous effect on your equity. Again. Use your judgement and be prepared to make huge laydowns against weak passive players who suddenly wake up with a hand.


I learned a lot from discovering this leak that I had. I hope you did too. A big thanks to Vinnie, IPlay & Braveslice for their help on some of the material here. You guys rock.


Position,Position, Position! ….. Range, Range, Range!




~* Grinderella *~


-------------------------------------
Variance Surfer, Valuetown IE.
Reg Grinder @ NL2 > NL25
4-Tabler of $7-$15 SNGs
Sunday Mill Shot Taker
 
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thetick33

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i ran 250 hands found that biggest issue I have is KQ talked to some high stakes big money players who pretty much remove from game.

I am winning daily again see how new strategies work. I am meaning kq even suited if you look a large portion of bbs/100 and its losing a ton of chips for you maybe adjusting might help you also!!
 
Grinderella

Grinderella

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KQ

Hi,

Thanks for commenting. Do you mean that they NEVER play KQ? And have removed it forever? It would be interesting to look at my database and see how I fare with it in general. One of the main reasons that I'm very interested in this ... is that my analysis of gappers/connectors in Leak 1 (Above) revealed that KQ can be weaker than other broadways for making nut straights. Does anyone else have any thoughts on the total removal of a Broadway hand? Would love to hear everyone's opinions/experiences.
 
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R

Rational Madman

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Hi,

Thanks for commenting. Do you mean that they NEVER play KQ? And have removed it forever? It would be interesting to look at my database and see how I fare with it in general. Does anyone else have any thoughts on the total removal of a Broadway hand? Would love to hear everyone's opinions/experiences.
Always vs never thinking is fish thinking.
 
Grinderella

Grinderella

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Posting

Hi,

Thanks for commenting. Constructive advice and replies on this thread are fully welcome.

G
 
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AlexTheOwl

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Always vs never thinking is fish thinking.

Brief, clear, and correct. Well done, Madman.

To state the obvious: It's better to never play KQ than to lose money on KQ long-term. But the proper solution is to learn to play KQ correctly.

Every pre-flop hand is profitable under the right conditions. Sometimes it is profitable to limp or raise with any two cards, even 32o or 72.
 
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Grinderella

Grinderella

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KQ

Agreed about hands being played properly as opposed to removal. "Brief, clear, and correct" is fine as long it offers examples and context. Otherwise it isn't valuable, but instead simply draws attention to problems without offering possible solutions. This is a forum, not a hearing.
 
bmw13

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KQ

We are talking here about perfect play to be honest a little bit and what cards we should play... you can play 72 UTG cliking extra time clock and you will show a powerfull hand if you want the blinds and ante. Its all about timming in poker.
 
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iAmBadAtPoker

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I dont have many hands that i would say i would never play from any position with any table conditioins. i bought a poker training course called pokerzion by john anhalt and in the hand range training video they talked about having multiple ranges for diffrent positions.
1)the range you will play 95% of the time
2)the range you will fold 95% of the time
3)the range that is table dependent. meaning you might or might not play these hands.wheather you play them or not is completely based on table dynamics(player tendencies,stack sizes,the seat your in)
Building ranges like this may seem complicated at first but in my opinion it allows you to be dynamic at the table and adjust to the table conditions while at the same time giving you a clear concise predetermined way to widen/tighten your range without going overboard with it.
 
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iAmBadAtPoker

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Grinderella, i really enjoy the way you approach improving your game. i feel like this thread is going to help a lot of people including myself make some much needed improvements. if you dont mind me asking what stakes are you playing right now?
 
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