TPC
Legend
Silver Level
Tygran
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
Very nice discussion starter!
omaha is insanely difficult to really get a grip on, compared to most other forms of poker... i'm very addicted.
A couple of things are true about omaha:
1) Most people playing it right now (at micro's anyway) are terrible
2) However, starting hand equities run much closer typically than they do in hold em... for example a 60/40 preflop is about as dominating as it gets.
3) This game is much more of a postflop than preflop game
Regarding your comment about being able to read hands quickly...it comes with practice, and it will take practice... I doubt anyone instantly picks that up.
I'll post some thoughts on starting hands later.
omaha is insanely difficult to really get a grip on, compared to most other forms of poker... i'm very addicted.
A couple of things are true about omaha:
1) Most people playing it right now (at micro's anyway) are terrible
2) However, starting hand equities run much closer typically than they do in hold em... for example a 60/40 preflop is about as dominating as it gets.
3) This game is much more of a postflop than preflop game
Regarding your comment about being able to read hands quickly...it comes with practice, and it will take practice... I doubt anyone instantly picks that up.
I'll post some thoughts on starting hands later.
cjatud2012
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Silver Level
Well it's 3 o'clock in the morning, so writing a lengthy post in response to this video was obviously the right thing to do. Nevermind that I have class in about six hours 
https://www.cardschat.com/forum/learning-poker-57/plugging-leaks-omaha-171254/#post1414625
It's all very basic, but hopefully it's helpful, and helps to get the discussion going.
https://www.cardschat.com/forum/learning-poker-57/plugging-leaks-omaha-171254/#post1414625
It's all very basic, but hopefully it's helpful, and helps to get the discussion going.
M
Marginal
Junior Member
Silver Level
The KK74 hand, there is no value in leading the turn into 5 players, your hand is not that strong and you rarely take the pot down there.
With respect to HUD questions, up to 4 tables, I do not use a HUD, I just try to observe the games more. Holdem, the stats means a lot more but in PLO when it takes so long for stats to converge, it is best to just observe and see who is doing the spew plays. From 6 to 9 tables I use a HUD.
The 9JTK is ok to raise preflop because you do hold the all important button but with 3 other plays in the pot, I do not cbet that board. Same with the KK74 hand, you are just not ahead that much and do not get many folds plus people in the micros are notorious for c/ring in PLO.
Building the pot preflop is not the best idea in PLO, you want the majority of the action to occur on the flop/turn and river because so much of the hand occurs there while very little matters preflop.
Sometimes you do not even want to get a ton of money in with the nuts because in a situation where you have the nut straight against someone with a set and another opponent with the nut fd, you are behind. So it is not a bad idea to just play it a little slower to see a safe card come off giving you better equity when the money goes in.
I do not recommend any books but just play more hands and you will get the hang of it. All I can say is to prepare for some swings, be willing to lose 20-30 buy ins, in a week and I believe that 70 buy ins is close to the minimum you should have in the roll.
T882, even though it is only 5c, it is always best to just pitch it. You just never flop big enough, get in a lot of shitty situations and most importantly you have no position. The turn is almost always a fold due to the fact that you do not ever get much value when you hit. He is going to check back a lot of rivers when scare cards come off and leading into him is going to either produce a fold or a raise which will have us fold.
Last hand, you should be cbetting the AAQ9 hand.
Sick win rate dude.
With respect to HUD questions, up to 4 tables, I do not use a HUD, I just try to observe the games more. Holdem, the stats means a lot more but in PLO when it takes so long for stats to converge, it is best to just observe and see who is doing the spew plays. From 6 to 9 tables I use a HUD.
The 9JTK is ok to raise preflop because you do hold the all important button but with 3 other plays in the pot, I do not cbet that board. Same with the KK74 hand, you are just not ahead that much and do not get many folds plus people in the micros are notorious for c/ring in PLO.
Building the pot preflop is not the best idea in PLO, you want the majority of the action to occur on the flop/turn and river because so much of the hand occurs there while very little matters preflop.
Sometimes you do not even want to get a ton of money in with the nuts because in a situation where you have the nut straight against someone with a set and another opponent with the nut fd, you are behind. So it is not a bad idea to just play it a little slower to see a safe card come off giving you better equity when the money goes in.
I do not recommend any books but just play more hands and you will get the hang of it. All I can say is to prepare for some swings, be willing to lose 20-30 buy ins, in a week and I believe that 70 buy ins is close to the minimum you should have in the roll.
T882, even though it is only 5c, it is always best to just pitch it. You just never flop big enough, get in a lot of shitty situations and most importantly you have no position. The turn is almost always a fold due to the fact that you do not ever get much value when you hit. He is going to check back a lot of rivers when scare cards come off and leading into him is going to either produce a fold or a raise which will have us fold.
Last hand, you should be cbetting the AAQ9 hand.
Sick win rate dude
.
TPC
Legend
Silver Level
The KK74 hand, there is no value in leading the turn into 5 players, your hand is not that strong and you rarely take the pot down there.
With respect to HUD questions, up to 4 tables, I do not use a HUD, I just try to observe the games more. Holdem, the stats means a lot more but in PLO when it takes so long for stats to converge, it is best to just observe and see who is doing the spew plays. From 6 to 9 tables I use a HUD.
When you are playing a lot of tables, what are you looking at in the stats. Can you give me an idea how you have your HUD set up for PLO?
The 9JTK is ok to raise preflop because you do hold the all important button but with 3 other plays in the pot, I do not cbet that board. Same with the KK74 hand, you are just not ahead that much and do not get many folds plus people in the micros are notorious for c/ring in PLO.
Yeah, I've seen the check raise, lol. The holdem player in me just wants to bet there. Something I need to work on for sure.
Building the pot preflop is not the best idea in PLO, you want the majority of the action to occur on the flop/turn and river because so much of the hand occurs there while very little matters preflop.
you need to build it a little pre flop, right? If you have 100bb and so does villain, you would need 3.5bb in pf. Villain calls, that means there is 7bb on the flop. You bet 7bb, villan calls, there is now 21bb in the pot on the turn, you have 89.5bb left. You bet 21bb, villain calls, there is now 63bb in the pot, you have 67.5bb left in your stack. So on the river you could almost get your stack in. I guess my point is, you need to build the pot a little in certain situations to get the money in by the river.
However, if there was more than one other person in the pot, It would be a lot easier.
Sometimes you do not even want to get a ton of money in with the nuts because in a situation where you have the nut straight against someone with a set and another opponent with the nut fd, you are behind. So it is not a bad idea to just play it a little slower to see a safe card come off giving you better equity when the money goes in.
Is there a program like poker stove for PLO? Something to look at those situations.
I do not recommend any books but just play more hands and you will get the hang of it. All I can say is to prepare for some swings, be willing to lose 20-30 buy ins, in a week and I believe that 70 buy ins is close to the minimum you should have in the roll.
I can totally see where this game can have huge swings. Luckily I've been on the positive side so far.
T882, even though it is only 5c, it is always best to just pitch it. You just never flop big enough, get in a lot of shitty situations and most importantly you have no position. The turn is almost always a fold due to the fact that you do not ever get much value when you hit. He is going to check back a lot of rivers when scare cards come off and leading into him is going to either produce a fold or a raise which will have us fold.
Yeah, I was kinda sure that was a lose call there. What kind of pot odds are you looking for there? Because I did have the FD and a gut shot SD. So I had 13 outs. But they weren't too the nuts either. So I don't know, like I said I need help in those spots.
Last hand, you should be cbetting the AAQ9 hand.
I know, LOL, I cbet with the J9TK hand and don't cbet there. I told you I have no clue what I'm doing
Sick win rate dude
Totally sustainable win rate imo, just trying to get it to a solid 50BB/100, maybe increase my 9 max on tilt to 3000BB/100
Thanks for your post Marginal. I'll make some other video's in the near future and just post them in this thread. Willing to do some sweats as well, just let me know.
Tygran
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
M
Marginal
Junior Member
Silver Level
The HUD set up would be very similar to what you would use in holdem. Same vpip, pfr, aggression by streets, fold to c/bet, cbet, showdown stats, etc. The real difference comes in what is considered bad. For example in holdem a 35/22 player may be seen as super aggro but in PLO it is just uber standard.
Tygran
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
Yeah all kinds of preflop styles work so if you are trying to look at vpip and pfr to determine how good a player is, well, you can't.
While it's true that someone with an absurdly high vpip (70-100) will likely not be all that great... it doesn't absolutely guarantee it... and yes..you will see lots of 70+ vpips.
That said, I think the following are some of the most important hud stats:
vpip/pfr: still useful, mainly for getting an idea of opening ranges
3b: definitely useful... ~2% or less means likely just 3betting AAxx hands... as it gets higher he's obviously 3betting more stuff and as it gets really high (you will see 20%+) he's 3betting all kinds of stuff (often anything double suited)
W$SD, WSD: I think these are useful... if someone is getting to showdown an unusually high amount of the time and even more importantly...loosing a high % of showdowns, then he's willing to showdown non-nut hands. very useful info.
I think it's useful to know how often somebody both cbets and folds to cbets on all three streets. One immediate thing this points out is that anyone with a high cbet flop and low cbet turn (especially together with a moderate/high fold to turn bet) is someone who frequently gives up after a failed flop cbet. This person can be floated often. Similarly... someone with high aggression numbers on all streets will frequently be barrelling you two or three streets with weakish hands or an outright bluff... the catch of course is it's impossible with some of them to tell bluffs from vbets.
anyway...that's all off the top for now...most of this marginal said above me too, though I expanded on some of it a little.
While it's true that someone with an absurdly high vpip (70-100) will likely not be all that great... it doesn't absolutely guarantee it... and yes..you will see lots of 70+ vpips.
That said, I think the following are some of the most important hud stats:
vpip/pfr: still useful, mainly for getting an idea of opening ranges
3b: definitely useful... ~2% or less means likely just 3betting AAxx hands... as it gets higher he's obviously 3betting more stuff and as it gets really high (you will see 20%+) he's 3betting all kinds of stuff (often anything double suited)
W$SD, WSD: I think these are useful... if someone is getting to showdown an unusually high amount of the time and even more importantly...loosing a high % of showdowns, then he's willing to showdown non-nut hands. very useful info.
I think it's useful to know how often somebody both cbets and folds to cbets on all three streets. One immediate thing this points out is that anyone with a high cbet flop and low cbet turn (especially together with a moderate/high fold to turn bet) is someone who frequently gives up after a failed flop cbet. This person can be floated often. Similarly... someone with high aggression numbers on all streets will frequently be barrelling you two or three streets with weakish hands or an outright bluff... the catch of course is it's impossible with some of them to tell bluffs from vbets.
anyway...that's all off the top for now...most of this marginal said above me too, though I expanded on some of it a little.
TPC
Legend
Silver Level
C
cAPSLOCK
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
I'll wade in an contribute my meager knowledge.
As has been mentioned starting hands fade a little in their power as compared to NLHE.
For example consider this fairly good PLO hand with this fairly terrible one:
AsAdKsKd 69.98%
3s6hTdQc 30.02%
And various flops will change those numbers quickly. PLO is the ultimate post flop big bet community card game.
That said you should be raising the first hand and folding the second from all positions.
Because of the nature of pot limit games it can be argued that position is more important here than even in NLHE. Well.. not just argued... it's just true. It is EXTREMELY important. Because not only do you have more information, but your strategy is somewhat more integrated into pot/stack/bet sizes.
PRE:
You want hands that work together in all their combinations. So cards ABCD can be seen as AB,AC,AD,BC,BD and DC So hands like the double suited AKAK hand are good as are most double suited AAxx and KKxx hands. In fact most hollywood hands are good. Even better is a hand that flops lots of straights like 89TJ or the like. In some ways these can be the best hands.
Starting hands with two pairs are set magnets compared to holdem with something like a 22% chance of hitting. But these hands can be dangerous.
Hands with unconnected low cards of multiple suites are the 72o of PLO.
Hands with a set in them like JJJ4 are worse than 72o.
Since you are holding your OWN blockers.POST (this is a post flop game God be praised)
Post flop play becomes the real battlefield in PLO. And just like hold'em sizing up your opponents is key. Some guys just pot pot pot because that's all they know how to do. Others won't bet without the nuts. Then there are the decent, and good players.
The first level of playing PLO post flop is learning to draw to the nuts or at least to the hand that beats your opponents range easily. But at first stick to drawing to the nuts. Most hold'em players are amazed at the number of "amazing bad beats" they see at Omaha at first. This is because they are playing Tejas Hold'em at an Omaha table. Here sets are weak, and the word "Underboat" takes on serious meaning. Zeebo's theorum MUST go out the window.
You must consider your drawing odds even more carefully than you might at NLHE... well at least as much as, but they are slightly more complicated now. Because you suddenly might find yourself (if you are playing the right kinds of hands preflop) with 19 outs to the nuts on the flop. And you'll need to know your opponent is likely to have drawn a set and know what outs that makes poisonous. You will also start considering the relationship of your cards to your opponents range knowing when you will have blockers to what he is likely to be drawing to.
To reiterate from a different angle: Just like you want six 2 card hands that work together pre flop, you also want to see a flop that gives you more than one way to draw to a (much) better hand. Combo draws are key in PLO. They have enormous effect on your equity. You can be up against a villain with a gigantic monster on the flop and still have MORE EQUITY in the pot because you have so many outs to the nuts.
PLO is EXTREMELY fun in my opinion, and it can enrich or break you very quickly. Just ask Isildur1.
I personally enjoy PLO8 even more, though it is a more simple game than either hold'em or PLO.
On that note, I think one reason NLHE has been so popular is the game has the balance of luck/skill that keeps a nice pool of fishes around. I am not entirely sure PLO can do the same thing... but then again, I am one of the fishes. And in that vein, you should take all my comments with a huge rock of salt.
cAPS
Chiefer
Legend
Silver Level
Trigg and I have talked a bit about playing PLO and he's convinced me to give it a shot. I am def interested in hearing some of the more experienced players theories and comments as I am pretty much in the same boat as he is.
Thanks for the Vid Trigg.
Thanks for the Vid Trigg.
kmixer
Legend
Silver Level
I am by no means an experienced player but I do play PLO more than I do NLHE.
Trigga....you played well in that session in my opinion. The other people at that table not so much.
Here is my opinion. Pre flop raises should not be full pot. We limit this for two reasons. We don't want to scare people out so fast and we don;t want to commit too much in case the flop is a nightmare. If we raise 3-3.5xxbb in position then we build the pot but not to a point that we can't get out of it if the flop comes up bad.
When there are two suited cards on the board and we do not have two of that suit, the hand is over unless there is no action. However trying to bluff someone out IMO is not the right thing to do because they may call with any two of that suit (especially at 05/10 and lower) If you are staying in the hand without two of that suit then you are needing to have at least a str draw or two pair for that possible Boat.
If there is a str or (str draw) on the board and you are not at the top end of it please do yourself a favor and get out of that hand unless you already have a set that produce top boat.
The advice in this hand already is above and beyond anything I can provide and much of what I said may have already been said. To be honest I havent read every word of all of the replies.
You also ask in the video for good books to read. I don;t think anyone should play PLO without first having read Jeff Hwang's first book.
If anyone here wants to play 01/02 PLO or even play money chips since we are among friends I am up for it. If a plan like this occurs please sned me a PM and I will be there.
Trigga....you played well in that session in my opinion. The other people at that table not so much.
Here is my opinion. Pre flop raises should not be full pot. We limit this for two reasons. We don't want to scare people out so fast and we don;t want to commit too much in case the flop is a nightmare. If we raise 3-3.5xxbb in position then we build the pot but not to a point that we can't get out of it if the flop comes up bad.
When there are two suited cards on the board and we do not have two of that suit, the hand is over unless there is no action. However trying to bluff someone out IMO is not the right thing to do because they may call with any two of that suit (especially at 05/10 and lower) If you are staying in the hand without two of that suit then you are needing to have at least a str draw or two pair for that possible Boat.
If there is a str or (str draw) on the board and you are not at the top end of it please do yourself a favor and get out of that hand unless you already have a set that produce top boat.
The advice in this hand already is above and beyond anything I can provide and much of what I said may have already been said. To be honest I havent read every word of all of the replies.
You also ask in the video for good books to read. I don;t think anyone should play PLO without first having read Jeff Hwang's first book.
If anyone here wants to play 01/02 PLO or even play money chips since we are among friends I am up for it. If a plan like this occurs please sned me a PM and I will be there.
Tygran
Cardschat Elite
Silver Level
It's not as easy to simply say: "Here is a list of all the starting hands you should play by position" in plo.
because: 1) there's so many more possible starting hands with 4 cards and 2) there isn't a hard and fast rule...honestly it should depend greatly on the table, the types of opponents and your position relative too them.
Having said that, a good PLO starting hand really boils down to one thing: how many different ways can this hand hit the flop hard. And by hard I mean make the nuts, or a good draw to the nuts. The more ways a hand can do this, the better a hand it is.
Some general rules:
1) you want at least one suit. there are very very very few rainbow hands worth playing at all. (I'd probably play AAKK rainbow for example but I'm not 3betting it). Two suits is better than one.
2) higher cards are better than lower cards (obvious)
3) connectedness is good, "gaps" are better to have near the bottom than the top.
Example: KQJT > JT98 > JT97 > QT98 > QT87
Also, gaps should generally only be 1 card, although certain 2 gap hands (when the gap is at the middle or bottom can be played) such as 9874 or QJ87... these are speculative hands though, don't play them from EP.
4) Pairs that aren't KK or AA are generally a bad thing. Good QQxx (like QQJT DS) can be played from LP. Hands like JJT9 or T988 can be played from LP, but they are weaker hands than say JT98.
5) 3 cards rundown + suited ace: these hands are reasonable: example: A876 suited to the ace.
6) Any 4 cards of different rank 9 or above headed by a (preferably suited) ace is a pretty good hand. (AKJ9, AQJT, etc)
7) A bit weaker but still playable (especially when double suited): Any 3 cards T or greater with a suited ace: AKJ3 for example. especially if the 3 suits something. If the 3 is offsuit, it's what we call a dangler and is not helpful. Of course it's better if the 3 is higher, but this hand type is still playable.
8) Some douple paired, at least single suited hands can be played... TTJJ, QQ99, etc...
9) AAxx are generally great hands, and KKxx hands are very good hands as well usually largely because if you do hit a set it's virtually always top set. which is quite valuable. middle and bottom set can cost you quite a bit. However, not all AAxx hands are created equal...some are only good for an attempted set mine and then you are done. It's relatively rare for a mere overpair of AA to hold up.
Apply all the above rule to determining what makes a good AAxx hand.
The best ones though are generally considered to be AAKK DS, AAJT DS(AAJT makes more straights than AAQK does)
This is just off the top, I may add to this later.
because: 1) there's so many more possible starting hands with 4 cards and 2) there isn't a hard and fast rule...honestly it should depend greatly on the table, the types of opponents and your position relative too them.
Having said that, a good PLO starting hand really boils down to one thing: how many different ways can this hand hit the flop hard. And by hard I mean make the nuts, or a good draw to the nuts. The more ways a hand can do this, the better a hand it is.
Some general rules:
1) you want at least one suit. there are very very very few rainbow hands worth playing at all. (I'd probably play AAKK rainbow for example but I'm not 3betting it). Two suits is better than one.
2) higher cards are better than lower cards (obvious)
3) connectedness is good, "gaps" are better to have near the bottom than the top.
Example: KQJT > JT98 > JT97 > QT98 > QT87
Also, gaps should generally only be 1 card, although certain 2 gap hands (when the gap is at the middle or bottom can be played) such as 9874 or QJ87... these are speculative hands though, don't play them from EP.
4) Pairs that aren't KK or AA are generally a bad thing. Good QQxx (like QQJT DS) can be played from LP. Hands like JJT9 or T988 can be played from LP, but they are weaker hands than say JT98.
5) 3 cards rundown + suited ace: these hands are reasonable: example: A876 suited to the ace.
6) Any 4 cards of different rank 9 or above headed by a (preferably suited) ace is a pretty good hand. (AKJ9, AQJT, etc)
7) A bit weaker but still playable (especially when double suited): Any 3 cards T or greater with a suited ace: AKJ3 for example. especially if the 3 suits something. If the 3 is offsuit, it's what we call a dangler and is not helpful. Of course it's better if the 3 is higher, but this hand type is still playable.
8) Some douple paired, at least single suited hands can be played... TTJJ, QQ99, etc...
9) AAxx are generally great hands, and KKxx hands are very good hands as well usually largely because if you do hit a set it's virtually always top set. which is quite valuable. middle and bottom set can cost you quite a bit. However, not all AAxx hands are created equal...some are only good for an attempted set mine and then you are done. It's relatively rare for a mere overpair of AA to hold up.
Apply all the above rule to determining what makes a good AAxx hand.
The best ones though are generally considered to be AAKK DS, AAJT DS(AAJT makes more straights than AAQK does)
This is just off the top, I may add to this later.
kmixer
Legend
Silver Level
One more thing I wanted to add......
When people sit down to play Omaha (PLO) they came to play not fold. They look for any excuse to play a hand. With that in mind you have to look at every flop and say. Is it possible that he made the straight? When playing HE you can safely say that he didn;t based on his pre flop play but in PLO there is no telling. Like Jeff Hwang says. If a lead bettor says he has it he most likely does.
Giving a free card in Omaha is not advised.
When people sit down to play Omaha (PLO) they came to play not fold. They look for any excuse to play a hand. With that in mind you have to look at every flop and say. Is it possible that he made the straight? When playing HE you can safely say that he didn;t based on his pre flop play but in PLO there is no telling. Like Jeff Hwang says. If a lead bettor says he has it he most likely does.
Giving a free card in Omaha is not advised.
TPC
Legend
Silver Level
M
Marginal
Junior Member
Silver Level
Watching now, thanks.
M
Marginal
Junior Member
Silver Level
1.09, AQ98ss I prefer a raise over just a call, you will take it down a few times (having high card blockers) and even when called you have potential to flop big and you have position. On the flop, I like a bet, just taking it down there is never an issue, same with the turn, it is a scary board and you will get a ton of folds.
4 minutes in, the JT55ds hand looks pretty but it does not have much value especially from utg where you will most likely be oop. If I was on the button against some nits in the blinds, I raise to steal but not for value.
4.20, A245dd you are just going to flop second best hands and as such I prefer a fold over a limp.
Will post more latter, got to run.
4 minutes in, the JT55ds hand looks pretty but it does not have much value especially from utg where you will most likely be oop. If I was on the button against some nits in the blinds, I raise to steal but not for value.
4.20, A245dd you are just going to flop second best hands and as such I prefer a fold over a limp.
Will post more latter, got to run.
M
Marginal
Junior Member
Silver Level
At 6,40, you call a raise from the button with KJ56 with 3 spades. Now the thing about this hand is that you only have 2 mediocre combinations, the KJ and the 56, the other 4 possibilities are pretty trashy, K5,K6,J5,J6 and you also counterfeit one of your flush outs. I just fold this preflop.
10,49. You have a boat and are led into. The problem is that you have the bad boat and really only beat a bluff on the river, unless villain is a drooler. It is a much more profitable play to just call the river because you never get called by worse, or very seldomly get called by worse.
I see that you kinda have a romance with double suited hands which is very normal when now starting out. While they are very strong, you want good double suited hands, hands that connect well or nut flush possibilities. Same thing goes for suited hands but in general hands like KT39ds really don't have that much value.
Another general note is the open limping, yes limping is more acceptable in omaha than it is in holdem but you want to be raising if you are opening a pot. Yes there are occasions where open limping is ok (EG on a very loose aggro table when you have AAxxds utg and want to get more money in preflop) but raising is almost always going to produce a better outcome.
There was a hand that was bvb or something and you were out of position with QQxx and the flop came 978 monotone. Omaha is a game in which 90% of people never bluff very scary boards which is why I like to bluff them. If someone does not have anything, they are guaranteed to fold because people seldomly bluff. It will come eventually but repping a lot of made hands on wet boards is very profitable against the average micro stakes player who plays fairly straight forward. Other situations to bluff at are when you have blockers, like having the As on a spade flush board or KKxx on a AJT board. When you block draws, it allows you to get away with more bluffs.
19.27, 9984 UTG is a fold, there is no value in it, the 9985 at 18,50 was somewhat what playable because the 5 connects and you were on the button but the 4 does nothing and you are oop all hand.
20,30 A977 it is a more playable hand if the A is suited but since it is not, it is a fold preflop, you just never hit the board hard enough and almost always end up with tricky situations.
Still have 10 minutes to go but you will notice that most of the critiques will relate to preflop play. It is understandable tbh because so many 2 card hands in holdem appear but seldom do they ever make good omaha starters. Once you play more it will obviously get a lot easier to determine which hands are powerful and which are not.
Will do the last 10 minutes a little later.
10,49. You have a boat and are led into. The problem is that you have the bad boat and really only beat a bluff on the river, unless villain is a drooler. It is a much more profitable play to just call the river because you never get called by worse, or very seldomly get called by worse.
I see that you kinda have a romance with double suited hands which is very normal when now starting out. While they are very strong, you want good double suited hands, hands that connect well or nut flush possibilities. Same thing goes for suited hands but in general hands like KT39ds really don't have that much value.
Another general note is the open limping, yes limping is more acceptable in omaha than it is in holdem but you want to be raising if you are opening a pot. Yes there are occasions where open limping is ok (EG on a very loose aggro table when you have AAxxds utg and want to get more money in preflop) but raising is almost always going to produce a better outcome.
There was a hand that was bvb or something and you were out of position with QQxx and the flop came 978 monotone. Omaha is a game in which 90% of people never bluff very scary boards which is why I like to bluff them. If someone does not have anything, they are guaranteed to fold because people seldomly bluff. It will come eventually but repping a lot of made hands on wet boards is very profitable against the average micro stakes player who plays fairly straight forward. Other situations to bluff at are when you have blockers, like having the As on a spade flush board or KKxx on a AJT board. When you block draws, it allows you to get away with more bluffs.
19.27, 9984 UTG is a fold, there is no value in it, the 9985 at 18,50 was somewhat what playable because the 5 connects and you were on the button but the 4 does nothing and you are oop all hand.
20,30 A977 it is a more playable hand if the A is suited but since it is not, it is a fold preflop, you just never hit the board hard enough and almost always end up with tricky situations.
Still have 10 minutes to go but you will notice that most of the critiques will relate to preflop play. It is understandable tbh because so many 2 card hands in holdem appear but seldom do they ever make good omaha starters. Once you play more it will obviously get a lot easier to determine which hands are powerful and which are not.
Will do the last 10 minutes a little later.
kmixer
Legend
Silver Level
Agree! Double suited garbage is still garbage.
Marginal For opening with a raise I agree that this is in general a good idea, but what are your feelings on raising if you are likely to bet yourself into a HU situation, with a hand that plays well with multiple players but not so good HU?
Example I am in the CO and I raise 3x BB since it folded to me. The Button calls (or re-raises) and the SB and BB fold. Does a raise form the CO need to be slightly larger than a raise fom any other position?