JOEBOBS 1000 post+ 9?? or so

JOEBOB69

JOEBOB69

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This is for starting out 6max cash game micro players.

Tracking software get your self tracking software either HEM or Poker Tracker you can Goggle them they have free trials. You need one of these programs for severeral reasons. You need to be able to know what your own stats are to find out were your leaks are. You need to be able to know what these different numbers are people keep throwing out there mean. You need to keep track of your villain’s stats.


BRM(Bank Roll Management)This is one important key to winning online poker period. I’ll give some general advice it can be tweaked. Start out either your 2nl or 4nl game with 20bi’s.1bi is 100bb on that given stake limit, an always buy in full to 100bb. Move up to the next limit when you have 25bi’s,the next when you have 30 bi’s etc. If you start losing after you moved up drop back down if you get your roll down to 30bi’s for your previous level. Stop loss sessions, you play worse when your losing money than you do when your winning. So if you lose 5bi’s in one session just stop find something else to do anything but poker.

Read and Learn. There is a ton of information (free information online) and in the bookstores.
Here is a few that I thought was very helpful.
https://www.cardschat.com/f49/
http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/7.../concept-week-schedule-table-contents-397190/
And IMO the best book
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1419680897/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=2952099541&ref=pd_sl_17fdf9qrfa_b"]Amazon.com: Elements of Poker (9781419680892): Tommy Angelo: Books[/ame]
There is much more info out there but you can’t go wrong with these.


Note tacking. Notes are very use full the more you play. You’ll come across the same players a lot. To start with color code your villains something like pink=reg,red=nit,blue=agg fish,green=passive fish. You can take notes on the client or in your software. For example I keep mine in HEM because I mark hands for review then I make the notes when I’m not playing. Use short hand for the action you want to note. F for flop T for turn R for river etc. Here is much more info about this subject.
https://www.cardschat.com/forum/cash-games-11/player-notes-82905/


Hand reading. Most beginning poker player and live poker players try to put villain on a specific hand this is a mistake. We need to put them on a range of hands given there stats and there position relative to there stats. Because a 24\19 is not raising 19% of all there hands UTG. There are a lot of tools that you can get to help you with ranges. Poker stove is probably one of the most common and it is free. Spent a lot of time reading the HA section of this forum to get a feel for what you should be thinking during a hand. Don’t get down on your self if you find hand reading hard. The more you study the easier the math and skill side will come.

Limping. Most new players make this mistake a ton. When you are the first one to enter a pot RAISE DO NOT FREAKING LIMP. So if the action is on you either fold or raise. See that was easy.

C-betting. A common mistake that beginning poker player have is they play fit or check\fold. Lets say you raise UTG +1 with KQs SB calls. Flop is A69 rainbow SB checks you???C-bet damn near 100% of the time in that spot. There is a lot more to C-betting than just blindly stabbing at pots with air but you can find that info in the links towards the top. Point I’m trying to get across is it doesn’t always matter what your cards are if you took the lead in the hand and the villain has shows no interest in the hand. Which leads us into the next topic.

Position. Probably the most important part of poker. Position affects every aspect of the game. First off you have more information than villain does an information is key. Second it lets you control the size of the pot. There is so much with position so I’ll try to break it down a bit.

Ranges. Position affects your range vs different villains. Lets start out with UTG at the lower limits of NLH my range would look like 22+,JQs+,KQo+,A10s+. UTG+1 would look like 22+,10Js,+JQo+,A10o+. Now you get where you use your HUD to open up your range. If the button is a 3bet machine your range should be as tight has your UTG if not tighter. If button is a nit that seldom 3bets(given how the blinds play) your range should really lighten up something like 22+,89s+,10Jo+,Ax. The button,SB,and BB are real important so I’ll talk about them separately.

Button. It’s where the power is. Where to start??
Blind stealing if every one before you has folded an the SB and BB have a fold to steal % greater than 75% I am raising 3x every single time no matter what my cards are. If the SB BB fold to steal % are lower the stronger my range needs to be. You also can ISO limpers. What does that mean lets say a 50\15\1 fish limps UTG+1 CO 30\20\2 calls. You have KJs limp is bad so it’s either raise or fold right? Bet sizing I use to ISO limpers is 4x+1 bb for every additional limper. The reason is your KJs is above the range of the fish limper and you have position. Plus the second limper hand is prob weaker and can not take the pressure. And there is a lot of free money in the pot already. Button can also be powerful to 3bet light of course at this stage of the game I would only 3bet value hands. 1010,+AKo,AQs+.

SB. From the SB you have your chances to steal from the BB too. I would use the same fold to steal ratio that I gave about the button to steal from the SB. If you get called though your out of position during the hand and that’s bad. You can also resteal from the button best to do with a Ax or Kx type of hand because you have blockers to the nuts. Lets say It folds around to the button he raises 3x is steal BB % is 35 or greater you have Ad 4s it is a perfect spot to resteal get the BB out and prob take the pot right there. Hands not to resteal with are hands like AJ,KQs,and so on because they are so far ahead of the buttons range. Does that make sense? If you raise with those types of hands your only folding out worse and getting called by(or 4bet) hands that have you bet. Moving on one of the most common leaks for beginners is completing the blind(AKA limping). There are some spots were this is good, but lets say UTG limps CO limps you have Q5os just fold that shit. Remember if it goes to a flop every one has position on you.

BB. In the BB you can resteal from the button or the SB I would use the same greater than 35% steal that I said in the SB. I would also use the same range for not 3beting like AJ,KQs,etc. When your in the BB every one is out to steal your blind. Or are they it’s not your blind it belongs to the pot every one has to post the blind once every orbit it’s in the pot it doesn’t belong to you an treat it as such. UTG which is a reg opens for 3x folds around you have 10Js. It is a nice drawing hand but the range UTG has is so strong, plus if you call he has position on you through out the hand. So say you called flop is 10 2 5 two toned, you check he pots it you just flopped top pair an have no idea where you stand in the hand. Best play is to fold here save your money to when you have position on the fish.

More than likely F***ed a lot of stuff here will try to fix it in like 3 years or so :)
 
ALL IN CLUBS

ALL IN CLUBS

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Nice post Joe:cool: hope your doing well at the tables
 
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PotluckXXI

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Great Thread

Don't forget about scoping tables for seating position. I really like to have LAGs on my right and nits on my left and chip leaders across or right. I don't like playing multiway pots especially with Nits or Chip leaders (like 300 or more BB's) even with good hands like AA. It sounds obvious but nits who raise have monsters and chip leaders will use weight to move players off and isolate (2% of their stack may be 10% of yours). there's more but it's not my thread and I'm not the most profitable player.
 
JOEBOB69

JOEBOB69

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Nice post Joe:cool: hope your doing well at the tables
Nope got a good buzz and played HU WITH 4BI'S.

Don't forget about scoping tables for seating position. I really like to have LAGs on my right and nits on my left and chip leaders across or right. I don't like playing multiway pots especially with Nits or Chip leaders (like 300 or more BB's) even with good hands like AA. It sounds obvious but nits who raise have monsters and chip leaders will use weight to move players off and isolate (2% of their stack may be 10% of yours). there's more but it's not my thread and I'm not the most profitable player.
There is a ton i left out,but i'm not writing a book. I see the same posts over and over from new members here that are just starting out. So i thought this would be a good start, to cut out all of the new threads basically about the same thing.
 
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micromachine

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Very useful + interesting post, thanks Joebob
Out of interest...
Did you start from the low stakes and progress up?
How long did it take and what level are you playing now?
 
alaskabill

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Hey JOEBOB,

Nice post. When you talk about bankroll management I was a little unsure what you meant. Are you saying that, for example, you need 20 buy ins for 2NL (so 40 bucks) but 25 buy ins for 5NL (125 bucks) and 30 buyins for 10NL (300 bucks)?
 
JOEBOB69

JOEBOB69

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Very useful + interesting post, thanks Joebob
Out of interest...
Did you start from the low stakes and progress up?
How long did it take and what level are you playing now?
Long boring story
Hey JOEBOB,

Nice post. When you talk about bankroll management I was a little unsure what you meant. Are you saying that, for example, you need 20 buy ins for 2NL (so 40 bucks) but 25 buy ins for 5NL (125 bucks) and 30 buyins for 10NL (300 bucks)?
Yes sir. I thought about it a lot an that's what I come up with
hi joebob, hows it going?
It's going like I'm give out tired:)
 
Worak

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Nice post Joe.

I prefer going with 50 buy ins for any level but that's just me the BR nit :rolleyes: .

Btw sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious ;) .
 
JOEBOB69

JOEBOB69

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like my user title Joe?
Didn't know I was one until WV said I should change my user title
Nice post Joe.

I prefer going with 50 buy ins for any level but that's just me the BR nit :rolleyes: .

Btw sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious ;) .
I just think 50bi's for 2nl-25nl is over kill but if it works for do what makes you comfortable.
 
KerouacsDog

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now Ive read properly, its a great thread, ty JB
 
fletchdad

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Just found this. I am playing FR ATM, only started a month ago, have about 30k hands so far and am break even. Hmmmm.... small sampls so far so I am drawing no conclusions. I have decided to give it a serious go, and have 2(!) coaches, 1 that plays mainly FR and one that is mainly 6max. The 6 max is new, and he will help me translate the difference between the 2 formats. . I will be shooting for 75K hands a months minimum, and see that as no problem.

Thanks for the info JB!
 
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dlam

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I just got trial version of HEM2. What are the stats are most important to monitor for yourself and others?
 
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I just got trial version of HEM2. What are the stats are most important to monitor for yourself and others?

Start with the basics: VPIP/PFR/AF everybody uses those. After that, it just depends on what you feel you need/ want to work on. Having issues with stealing blinds or having people always steal yours? Add Attempt to Steal/Fold to Steal/Re-Steal. Want to work on isolating limpers? Add Limp-call/Limp Re-raise. Always getting to showdown with a losing hand? Add WTSD/W$SD.

It really just depends. Start with the basics and go from there. Don't add too much at one time, though, or you can get some serious information overload.
 
JOEBOB69

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Just to add what rudy said a lot of people just use the basics on there HUD and then use there pop up for the rest.Mine looks like
fold bb to steal,3bet BB,C\R,#hands
steal %,3bet,fold to 3bet,donk bet flop,4bet range
flop cbet,turn cbet,fold flop cbet,fold turn cbet
vp$ip,pfr,AF,bet vs missed cbet,squeeze %

this is way more than most people use,but to each there on.Just make sure your not makeing assumptions on villain with a low sample of hands on that person.Note takeing with the use of HUD is the best imo for solid reads.

Also could i get a mod to insert this link of basic good\bad boards to cbet into my op.A few people said it was helpfull
http://www.thepokerbank.com/strategy/plays/continuation-bet/when/
 
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