With freerolls on pokerstars
, a good general rule is to fold out anything but AA, KK, AK in the first orbit or two. Sure, it still plays fast and loose after that, but the craziness of the bingo players has mostly run its course by the time a couple orbits have passed.
Thing is, even with AA, KK and AKs, these are losing hands a alot of the time at the beginning of a freeroll. This is because they aren't only always shoving, but there are always a number of players CALLING the shove. So you end up in massive multiway pots where AA is regularly cracked.
If you plan to rebuy, then play those in the first couple orbits and then starting playing closer to normal poker after that.
If you are quite fast and loose yourself, you might consider rebuying right off the bat. This gives you some breathing space to catch a decent starting hand...but there ar eothers who say that you're devaluing your investment...and if you're only gonna do one rebuy, prolly save it for the add-on.
I used to always do the early rebuy and had decent results, but these days, I'm trying to reduce my investment to time only and not blow my bankroll
- Early orbit folds
- Recognise that you cannot push a call station off a pot. So, instead of the huge three-bets pre-flop, make them only moderate in order to build a pot, rather than to expect to reduce the field size significantly.
- Get the add-on
- Play tight and aggressive...but keep the aggression to when you hit.
- reduce bluffing
, especially until after the add-on.
- Post Add-on, you'll have to get a feel for your table, but here is an iopportunity to use position and aggression against the tightest players or those who are trying to hang on to get into the money,
- Identify the fish/call-stations and bet big when you've hit well.
- Identify the super-nits and steal their blinds.
- Keep an eye on stack sizes. You can often call off a small stack shoving a premium hand if the damage to your stack isn't significant. For these, I often will call with 78s, 89s, 9Ts which might be nice speculative hands, but generally are mucked when facing a shove.
- Adapt your play to the mood of the table. If they are super loose, tighten up. If they are super tight, lossen up.
- ID the specific exploitable weaknesses of your opponents, especially those two spots on either side of you. For those with hig CBet frequency, be prepared to 3-bet solidly. ID those who lead with weak aces. Punish them with flop bets when the Ace is a miss.
- now generally, I frown upon limping. When you're weak, its hard to call a big raise, and when you're strong, you've just let some crappy hands into the pot to see a flop. However, if you're playing a game where a raise doesn't thin the field, and you've not got AA or KK or QQ, you might as well see a flop as cheaply as you can and go from there. Oddly, position can be against you in these games. If you're last to act, you are often in a position where you are faced with a big bet to enter the pot. Since the bet sizing doesn't really represent hand-strength -- you inevitably faced shove/fold decisions. At least, if you limped in Q9o, you can get out cheaplly. In later stages of the game, I tend to stop this altogether and make my opening bet sizing higher (3BB) because people are more likely to fold after the add-on than before.
It also means that those who might have strung me along, are now 3bet shoving if they've got a made hand or a AK/AQ preflop, so I get out with only a modest loss, rather than getting incrementally flayed streeet by street,
- Get a HUD...and take loads opf player notes. I've been using Poker Tracker two for nearly three years now...and the database has really filled out. There are always people on my table now who I've got notes on. At a minimum, you can colour code villains (Nit, TAG, LAG, Fish, etc.). I also have a colour which I immediately apply to anyone sitting out. This flags they are not defending/attacking, and also allows me to understand why a loose player might have a low VPIP stat. When you're up against a nit with a low PFR and he's raiing Pre-flop into you, your notes will tell you to get out of there, rather than defending your BB with that measly T7o.
- In your notes, be sure to label those who bluff
frequently, and those who always have the hand they claim to have. When you can separate out the honest from those economical with honesty, you have a fold/three-bet list. Similarly, you need to root out the trappy players and exploit that tendency.
- In the end game, 20BB can take you a long way. generally, I'm trying to always stay above 20BB the whole game. I don't care if I'm chip lead or last. But if you've got 20 bigs, you should have time to catch a hand to double up before you're below 6BB. From 6BB and above, you can get shoves through (post add-on) and steal crucial blinds.
- The reputation you have stays for the duration of your time on that table. If you play tight for the first half the game, they will expect you to continue. If they peg you as loose, becoming tight later won't change their view, They'll alreadyt have you labelled. Similarly, if you've worked hard to build up a reputation on a table and the get moved...it doesn't (usually) come with you. Don't rely on your rep for a table with high turn-over either.
anywho...there are more things...but that is good to leave it for now.
Best of luck!