Is floating on a draw heavy board worth it, if you feel your opponent isn't super strong and is a tight player who folds a lot? I mean if you float in position and the draw hits, they kind of have to fold, right? But if you miss, it can cost ya...

I dunno, just seems like an interesting idea...

I guess it depends on if you are getting the "ODDS" to the draw, and then it can be a profitable play...

for me floating comes down to if I have enough chips to float and if the board texture favors me floating. Also if I perceive my opponent to be weaker than me or also on a draw it might give me a bit more incentive to check call it down as well. Very situational I guess on position too and stack depths.

Originally Posted by pokerpie

for me floating comes down to if I have enough chips to float and if the board texture favors me floating. Also if I perceive my opponent to be weaker than me or also on a draw it might give me a bit more incentive to check call it down as well. Very situational I guess on position too and stack depths.

Well said. Kind of answer I was looking for.

I suppose floating just to bluff certain cards is ridiculous tho...

If My goal is to try and take the pot down regardless of what hits then yes , Floating to a Fold Machine is worth it. I mean yes it can be costly but so can Preflop aces . Every hand has a cost, just depends on how much I'm willing to invest overall. I take everything into account before trying to chase down a draw

Sometimes

Originally Posted by FrothyGoodness

If My goal is to try and take the pot down regardless of what hits then yes , Floating to a Fold Machine is worth it. I mean yes it can be costly but so can Preflop aces . Every hand has a cost, just depends on how much I'm willing to invest overall. I take everything into account before trying to chase down a draw

Fold Machine haha nice. I used to think of them as "Nits." Or a mouse, in Phil Hellmuth's terminology. Very cool to think about...

Originally Posted by Mikeisanace777

Sometimes

Nice exactly sometimes...

This is very bad. If I had lost the first 50 dollars, I would have thought about the consequences of such a game.

i think we should only flat out of position and highly coordinated boards. you can reraise against high fold frequencies and get clue about opponent's hand.

Originally Posted by blackburn44

i think we should only flat out of position and highly coordinated boards. you can reraise against high fold frequencies and get clue about opponent's hand.

Yes, we can get a clue about the villain's hand, being the hero.

For me floating comes down to what percentage value do I have. If it’s over 30% then yes, but if it’s a one outer or drawing a knife when a gunfire is more probable? Then no

I always take notes on players who make a continuation bet and then give up on the turn as well as players I have to fire 2 bets to fold. These notes come in handy when deciding who to float against. I generally only float AK.

Originally Posted by Tylor Mendez

Is floating on a draw heavy board worth it, if you feel your opponent isn't super strong and is a tight player who folds a lot? I mean if you float in position and the draw hits, they kind of have to fold, right? But if you miss, it can cost ya...

I dunno, just seems like an interesting idea...

I guess it depends on if you are getting the "ODDS" to the draw, and then it can be a profitable play...

Thanks for posting.
Thought I would share this definition of floating as it is helpful to the discussion.

A float is a move where an https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Aggressor/ is called so that a player may retake the https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Initiative/ in a later round, provided that the original https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Aggressor/ allows it. It is a broad term. The https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Call/ on the https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Flop/ can be a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Bluff-Call/, https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Smooth-Call/, or a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Call/ for https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Pot-Control/. The term is often used in sense of a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Bluff/.

https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Float/ as a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Bluff/

One does not need a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Made-Hand_1797/ to execute a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Float/, even though the https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Expected-Value/ will be elevated when one possesses a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Draw/ with which one could win the https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Showdown/ if it were completed. Calling a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Continuation-Bet/ can be done as a https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Pure-Bluff/ to represent a strong https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Hand/ or https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Slowplay/ or to show an opponent that the https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Pot/ will not be easily won and to convince him to give up his https://www.pokerstrategy.com/glossary/Bluff/.


Hope this helps

I find the best board to float OOP is a heavy lockdown board like A♦️10♦️2♦️ Or K♠️K♣️4♥️
You can take it down on the river with a good pot size bet