Al Spath
Rock Star
Silver Level
Hi everyone, I thought I might be able to assist those beginning players and maybe some struggling players (return to the solid aggressive fundamentals), by providing these lessons (developed while I was Dean at Poker School Online):
No-Limit Texas Hold’em (Lesson #1)
Choosing NL over Limit Poker
(A guide for those starting out, building a solid foundation, or trying to see what they missed starting from the beginning).
The contrasts are many, beginning with the potential of losing your entire stake on one hand, or winning several times your stake under the best conditions. Unlike limit poker, the swings in no-limit poker can range widely (and wildly), from hand-to-hand and from session-to-session, and unlike limit poker, the art of bluffing (and stealing), will become a very useful and deadly tool you can call upon to win pots you would not normally be favored to win.
I have found that players who first start playing limit poker, and who build a solid/aggressive, winning poker foundation, learning the basics (patience, discipline, starting hands, position, pre-flop and post-flop play, and bankroll management), can make the transition to no-limit poker with more ease than players first starting out with no-limit poker. The biggest difference is most obvious; in limit poker, the betting structure is (fixed) and with no-limit, the betting structure is fluid (allowing the player to select an amount, any amount, to bet). Perfecting the art of proper bet selection alone can be more than enough to make you a consistent winner in this format. Mix in some added skills (dealing with position and bluffing) and you will take that bankroll to new levels in short order. Caution: You will need a bigger bankroll to start in no-limit than limit poker to compensate for the anticipated swings associated with no-limit poker games.
To play no-limit poker, you have to have a different mind set. It’s not about winning lots of small pots’; it’s about winning one or two good size pots per hour. Your ability to finesse your opponents, drawing them into situations where you can maximize your profits in a single hand, or for you to be able to apply the right amount of “pressure,” created by a correct sized bet, will enable you to increase your bankroll and enjoy this poker format. Mistakes made in no-limit poker are magnified greatly, and it is your responsibility to eliminate as many mistakes as you can from your game, and to capitalize on as many mistakes made by your opponents as you can.
Betting Sizes
The most typical mistake made by players in a no-limit game is the amount of wager they make into a pot. Generally speaking, the bet they make is too small, thus allowing other opponents to remain in the hand, and potentially out-draw, or bluff the original bettor off their hand. This passive player (making undersized bets) loses money when they bluff at pots as well; due to the perception gained by their opponents on how normally “thrifty” they are with their bets. By making proper sized wagers, opponents will not readily be able to take you lightly and your earnings will increase significantly.
It is always a good idea to vary your bets so your opposition cannot “tell” when you have a certain type hand. As a general practice, raising the pot approximately three to five times the size of the posted big blind amount would be considered a good size raise if holding hands like AA, KK, QQ, or AKs. Note: Some players’ think this is too small of a sliding scale and they use a higher range; five to seven times, as their multiplier. Use whatever scale or range that will work for you. There is no set rule to apply here. A common tendency for someone holding AKos or AQos to raise a bit more than the standard raise is often made for hand protection (in more micro limit games – under .25/.50), and at times can be a dead give-away. I would recommend you vary your raises only slightly, even with premium cards, so that no one seated at the table can immediately put you on any specific hand. Sometimes you might raise a pot three times the size of the big blind while holding AA, but at other times you may elect to only raise it two and a half times, or four time with the same hand. There are so many variables involved in the process that will be covered in latter lessons. Keep in mind there are many players who will not hesitate to go all-in with a hand like AA, whether it is the first hand of a sit-n-go, first hand of multi-table event, or when sitting at ring game. Don’t be predictable, don’t be a player your opponents can categorize! BTW, those big pairs and big cards are usually crushed in most cash games and tournaments, however, medium pairs that make sets on flops, and connecting suited cards can be devastating to those with big cards. More on that later, after you build a solid foundation of playing smartly.
Typically, players will make a wager ranging from about a third of the pot, to one equal to, or a bit larger than the size of the pot. Note: “Over betting the pot” could be a sign someone might want to get all-in or they are protecting a weak hand and want you out now; so take note of these type bets when contemplating continuing in the hand. When you see a bet that does not fit into these ranges, you should sense weakness or a possible trap. Knowing your opponents “tendencies” again will assist you in processing the information gained from just observing the “bet amount.” Bet sizes may indicate a player is searching for information, looking for table action, protecting their holdings, or may represent fear. You must learn to interpret what each bet could possibly mean, before you commit (the proper amount) to any pot. No limit poker is a game of traps, trickery, deception and outright thievery, so you must be on guard throughout each hand. I tend to respect the 2/3 to 3/4 bets into a pot, and I tend to discount/disrespect c-bets of half pot bets, and full pot bets (but that's my take from years of experience. Of course you might have a read that tells you differently.
Some quick examples to aid you: With a flop of Qd 5h 9d (and you’re holding an over pair or a hand such as AQ), dictates you make a good size bet or pot sized bet. There are flush draws available for your opponents holding two diamonds, or straight draws for those holding KJ, KT, JT, J8, and T8. You want to discourage players with these holdings from continuing, without paying an unrealistic drawing bet. And with one pair you don’t want multiple callers on a wet (coordinated or scary board). But if they call your large bet and another card comes to help their draw, be prepared to consider curtailing or abandoning your efforts to win that pot. You must be able to lay down a good hand to be successful in no limit poker. Conversely, if the flop was lacking draw possibilities, something like an Ad 4h 8c, you might want to only bet between 65-75% of the pot.
In lesson 2, I will discuss more on betting situations, including tournament play.
No-Limit Texas Hold’em Lesson #2
In lesson #1 we began talking about “betting sizes,”and I want to also turn our attention to tournament play at this juncture. As I mentioned in the first lesson, proper betting is the number one flaw in most players’ games today. As in NL games, players make betting mistakes in pot-limit and limit poker as well, but for this lesson, we will concentrate on no-limit tournament betting.
So what is the most common betting mistake made at the tables anyway? How about UNDER BETTINGthe pot. This is a definite sign of weakness and demonstrates a player’s inability to utilize “betting” a proper amount in hopes of setting up potential bluffs, steals, or to attain proper value in a hand. The central theme of no-limit poker is to “pressure” your opponents, putting the guesswork on them. Here’s an example: A pot containing $1,000 is checked to a late position player on the river, and he/she bets $100. What’s wrong with this message sent by the bettor? Why would anyone bet such a small amount? Do they assume this minimal bet is going to drive most of the players out of the pot, or is it going to invite someone who has checked with a strong, or semi-strong hand to make a play at the pot? I think the latter, putting the pressure back on the original bettor, and I must say that this “betting” mistake is made more often than any other mistake.
Let’s look at the same situation (this time just after the flop), for another examination of the correct way to bet the hand. What should a person in late position holding a decent hand (or trying to steal the pot) bet, when the pot is laying $1000? How about “betting 2/3's of the pot.” This will in most cases be enough to end the draws and eliminate the weaker hands by those who have checked. You know the ones who are only willing to pay a minimal amount to see “another card” that might just make their hand after the flop. The bet pressures all remaining players to consider pot odds, which are very unfavorable to them at this stage facing this size bet. They will also be forced to consider the possibility that their hand may not be strong enough to beat you with or without help on the turn and/or river.
By betting 2/3 or more of the pot, other benefits to the bettor/raiser (aside from garnering information and eliminating to many drawing hands), is that it also sets up the possibility to steal in later rounds, take a free card, or win with another bet on a later round, and at the same time it’s adding value to the pot. What do you do when you find yourself with the nuts at the end, and again the hand is checked to you? Do you bet a minimal amount hoping that you will get a caller or a raise? Or do you again bet an amount that “may,” indicate you could possibly be stealing the pot and thereby induce a call or two from your opponents? I guess the question you need to ask yourself is; wouldn’t it be better to bet $600-$700 and get one caller, than to bet $100 and get multiple callers? Sometimes your bet might look fishy and get someone to challenge you with an ill-advised call. Yet there are times when you can get your (unskilled) opponent to attempt a steal from you? Wouldn’t you prefer they raise your bet and not just raise a $100 bet? Don’t waste your time on betting small amounts to elicit callers or raisers. If you want to make a bet of 2/3 to 3/4 the size of the very large pot, I find no fault in doing so to mix up your play and still extract value from the hand, but never bet the minimum amount into any pot if you expect to have a reasonable chance of winning without holding the top hand. Remember, betting the proper amount puts the pressure on your opponent; they must ask themselves; do you have something or are you bluffing?
Let’s now get back to “opening bets,”as they relate to what the initial round of betting creates. If there are a lot of limpers allowed into a pot, you can generalize and say that the winning hands will be “much stronger” than when the pot is played with fewer players. That is why your big pairs will more often hold up when you raise and eliminate most of the field, instead of being “caught” on the turn or river by a drawing hand that was mistakenly allowed to remain in the hand and see cards “cheaply.”Referring back to lesson 1, you are reminded to raise pre-flop with strong hands the proper amount (X times the posted big blind amount), to reduce the field and strengthen your position to win the pot. It is a mistake to limp in with premium cards and allow others with speculative cards to continue in the hand without paying a price to proceed. NOTE: Unless you are at a very aggressive table and you expect a raise, and you intend to re-raise of call just that person (in order to trap them with an inferior hand).
Here’s one more example of how to bet a hand properly, and this time from out of a “blind position” at the table. Let assume you have 56os in the big blind and see the flop with four other callers, for nothing more than your tournament posted big blind amount
of $50. There is $275 in the pot (small blind folded), and the flop comes 5T6 rainbow. What should you do in this situation? If you said check, you would be wrong (unless it’s an aggressive table and you expect a bet you then can check-raise (more below on this move); if you said bet the minimum, you would be wrong, and if you said bet about $100, you still would be wrong. If you don’t bet more than half the pot, you might set your self up for a horrific beat from someone with top pair already, or you might get drawn out on. You must protect your flopped two pair and make it a bit expensive for anyone with a single top pair, or anyone foolish enough to chase a gut-shot straight, or three-flush to continue. Note: When I say protect your hand; this is not a DEFENSIVE measure, but rather an OFFENSIVE maneuver that you must incorporate into your game. Bet enough to take down the pot or eliminate most of the players in the hand. You stand a greater chance of having your two-pair hold up and to take down your opponents the majority of time using this betting strategy. Allowing your opponents to bet a lesser amount allows them to continue in the hand and quite possibly win all the chips in a pot you built. You just cannot permit this to happen if you expect to become a winning NL player.
Advanced Player Move - When in the blinds and you see a flop very cheaply (no raises), and you know someone at the table will bet if you do indeed check, you can check-raise from the blinds with two pair, or even when you hit top pair, weak kicker. Your check raise from an out a position considered (out of position), indicates huge strength and USUALLY makes others fold. Do not attempt this against a calling station with only top pair, they won't go away.
In lesson #3, I will be discussing additional holdings and making feeler bets
No-Limit Texas Hold’em Lesson #3 – Bluffing, Beating a Bully and Feeler Bets
In lesson #2 we began talking about “Correct Size Bets,”and now I want to discuss the art of bluffing, how to deal with a bully at the tables and making feeler bets. I spoke about make the “correct” size bets into a pot and spotting those who are not betting properly, so now is the time to elaborate on how exploit the table with a bit of larceny (in the art form known as bluffing).
A “bluff” is a bet of some nature when you have little or no chance of winning the pot if someone calls. A “semi-bluff” is a bet, that if called, you don’t hold the best hand, but you have a hand that could improve and be the best hand. Bluffing is primarily attempted to win pots. Some additional benefits can be garnered by its use (advertising for future pots), but you should employ a bluff only when you think it will be successful. It is highly recommended you limit the amount of bluffs attempted, as the fewer attempted, the more effective the bluffs you try will be. If you are getting good cards and dominating the table, players will notice and may think you have been bluffing at some of those pots, so bluff less often when you are picking up more than your share of pots, and bluff a bit more when premium cards are sparse, and you have “table position.” If the field checks to you, I’d be inclined to take their word (they are weak), and fire out a decent sized bet to further convince them to surrender; right now. Most of your opponents won’t be holding strong enough hands to slip in a check-raise, so be prepared to fire enough money into the pot to discourage anyone on a draw from continuing. Note: If they are playing a long shot hand, and continue to draw against you, you can continue to punish them on the turn if the card hitting the board appears to provide little or no help to anyone remaining in the pot.
Bluffing “represents” holding a specific strong hand, as is the case when a third card in a particular suit hits the board and you bet. You are indicating you have a made flush and only those individuals having a flush, a bigger flush, a giant-sized flush draw, or a full house (or house draw), will play back at you. Remember, the amount of money bet in your attempted bluff is relative to the size of the pot, the size of your stack, and the size of your opponents stack (more later in lesson 4, on the influence of stack size). If you bet too little, your opponent might not be deterred and still call. If you bet too much, your opponent might sense you are over betting a hand that lacks real value. Therefore, I suggest you bet an amount that is not considered wimpy, or one that appears to be unusually large. It is also difficult to bluff at times when your opponent can readily see that you have a limited amount of resources (chips), and they have plenty of ammunition in front of them. Additionally, if your opponent is a loose player, your efforts to bluff may not be as effective, so know your opposition, their style, tendencies, and most of all, how they perceive you. If they believe you are a solid or tight player, they will tend to respect your bluff attempts more readily. In the event you are playing way to many hands (who me), don’t expect your bluff attempts to go unnoticed or unchallenged.
Some additional bluffing reminders/tips:
• Bet sizes are your “keys” to putting players on hands.
• Raising with a straight draw, when a flush draw is present is not advised.
• Draws that do not contain a “nut draw” should be played with “position,” and very carefully.
• Bluffers usually have nothing (busted draw) and seldom bluff when they have a hand of uncertainty.
Bullies like shorthanded tables and they love to find opponents with shorter stacks than them. Although you might find it tempting to play a few more hands against them, it is wiser to sit and wait for hand you can extract a great deal of money from them. Keep in mind, any pot entered with a bully sitting at the table is likely to be raised, so be very selective and committed when you do play a hand. Be especially cognizant of the “other” players in the pot and don’t focus entirely on the bully. Players yet to act “behind” you have also noticed the bully and may too be playing stronger hands in hopes of trapping their prey (which might include you). So tend to call a bully most times, rather than raise (unless you have a hand that dictates you want to isolate him or her alone), and see what others (yet to act in the hand), are going to do. You should bluff back at the bully on occasion, giving them a taste of their own medicine, as you might suspect, they tend to have weak holdings and will back off.
A “teaser bet or probing type bet,” is made to entice others to give a player action, or can be a sign of a weak hand. Players who have made hands will put an “undersized” bet, crying for a call or a raise, to tempt opponents into committing more chips. While on occasion, an improper sized feeler bet may indicate the bettor is testing the waters to see if their hand is strong enough to take down the pot. NOTE: Advanced players will do this when they are strong; hoping you will act as if their bet indicates weakness! Be very observant when your opponent puts an “unusual” amount into a bet, and consider the size of the bet to the existing pot before you decide whether or not the player is enticing you to give them action, or is weak! Playing back at a weak player will net you the pot on most occasions, but only those times you “read” them correctly.
No-Limit Texas Hold’em (Lesson #1)
Choosing NL over Limit Poker
(A guide for those starting out, building a solid foundation, or trying to see what they missed starting from the beginning).
The contrasts are many, beginning with the potential of losing your entire stake on one hand, or winning several times your stake under the best conditions. Unlike limit poker, the swings in no-limit poker can range widely (and wildly), from hand-to-hand and from session-to-session, and unlike limit poker, the art of bluffing (and stealing), will become a very useful and deadly tool you can call upon to win pots you would not normally be favored to win.
I have found that players who first start playing limit poker, and who build a solid/aggressive, winning poker foundation, learning the basics (patience, discipline, starting hands, position, pre-flop and post-flop play, and bankroll management), can make the transition to no-limit poker with more ease than players first starting out with no-limit poker. The biggest difference is most obvious; in limit poker, the betting structure is (fixed) and with no-limit, the betting structure is fluid (allowing the player to select an amount, any amount, to bet). Perfecting the art of proper bet selection alone can be more than enough to make you a consistent winner in this format. Mix in some added skills (dealing with position and bluffing) and you will take that bankroll to new levels in short order. Caution: You will need a bigger bankroll to start in no-limit than limit poker to compensate for the anticipated swings associated with no-limit poker games.
To play no-limit poker, you have to have a different mind set. It’s not about winning lots of small pots’; it’s about winning one or two good size pots per hour. Your ability to finesse your opponents, drawing them into situations where you can maximize your profits in a single hand, or for you to be able to apply the right amount of “pressure,” created by a correct sized bet, will enable you to increase your bankroll and enjoy this poker format. Mistakes made in no-limit poker are magnified greatly, and it is your responsibility to eliminate as many mistakes as you can from your game, and to capitalize on as many mistakes made by your opponents as you can.
Betting Sizes
The most typical mistake made by players in a no-limit game is the amount of wager they make into a pot. Generally speaking, the bet they make is too small, thus allowing other opponents to remain in the hand, and potentially out-draw, or bluff the original bettor off their hand. This passive player (making undersized bets) loses money when they bluff at pots as well; due to the perception gained by their opponents on how normally “thrifty” they are with their bets. By making proper sized wagers, opponents will not readily be able to take you lightly and your earnings will increase significantly.
It is always a good idea to vary your bets so your opposition cannot “tell” when you have a certain type hand. As a general practice, raising the pot approximately three to five times the size of the posted big blind amount would be considered a good size raise if holding hands like AA, KK, QQ, or AKs. Note: Some players’ think this is too small of a sliding scale and they use a higher range; five to seven times, as their multiplier. Use whatever scale or range that will work for you. There is no set rule to apply here. A common tendency for someone holding AKos or AQos to raise a bit more than the standard raise is often made for hand protection (in more micro limit games – under .25/.50), and at times can be a dead give-away. I would recommend you vary your raises only slightly, even with premium cards, so that no one seated at the table can immediately put you on any specific hand. Sometimes you might raise a pot three times the size of the big blind while holding AA, but at other times you may elect to only raise it two and a half times, or four time with the same hand. There are so many variables involved in the process that will be covered in latter lessons. Keep in mind there are many players who will not hesitate to go all-in with a hand like AA, whether it is the first hand of a sit-n-go, first hand of multi-table event, or when sitting at ring game. Don’t be predictable, don’t be a player your opponents can categorize! BTW, those big pairs and big cards are usually crushed in most cash games and tournaments, however, medium pairs that make sets on flops, and connecting suited cards can be devastating to those with big cards. More on that later, after you build a solid foundation of playing smartly.
Typically, players will make a wager ranging from about a third of the pot, to one equal to, or a bit larger than the size of the pot. Note: “Over betting the pot” could be a sign someone might want to get all-in or they are protecting a weak hand and want you out now; so take note of these type bets when contemplating continuing in the hand. When you see a bet that does not fit into these ranges, you should sense weakness or a possible trap. Knowing your opponents “tendencies” again will assist you in processing the information gained from just observing the “bet amount.” Bet sizes may indicate a player is searching for information, looking for table action, protecting their holdings, or may represent fear. You must learn to interpret what each bet could possibly mean, before you commit (the proper amount) to any pot. No limit poker is a game of traps, trickery, deception and outright thievery, so you must be on guard throughout each hand. I tend to respect the 2/3 to 3/4 bets into a pot, and I tend to discount/disrespect c-bets of half pot bets, and full pot bets (but that's my take from years of experience. Of course you might have a read that tells you differently.
Some quick examples to aid you: With a flop of Qd 5h 9d (and you’re holding an over pair or a hand such as AQ), dictates you make a good size bet or pot sized bet. There are flush draws available for your opponents holding two diamonds, or straight draws for those holding KJ, KT, JT, J8, and T8. You want to discourage players with these holdings from continuing, without paying an unrealistic drawing bet. And with one pair you don’t want multiple callers on a wet (coordinated or scary board). But if they call your large bet and another card comes to help their draw, be prepared to consider curtailing or abandoning your efforts to win that pot. You must be able to lay down a good hand to be successful in no limit poker. Conversely, if the flop was lacking draw possibilities, something like an Ad 4h 8c, you might want to only bet between 65-75% of the pot.
In lesson 2, I will discuss more on betting situations, including tournament play.
No-Limit Texas Hold’em Lesson #2
In lesson #1 we began talking about “betting sizes,”and I want to also turn our attention to tournament play at this juncture. As I mentioned in the first lesson, proper betting is the number one flaw in most players’ games today. As in NL games, players make betting mistakes in pot-limit and limit poker as well, but for this lesson, we will concentrate on no-limit tournament betting.
So what is the most common betting mistake made at the tables anyway? How about UNDER BETTINGthe pot. This is a definite sign of weakness and demonstrates a player’s inability to utilize “betting” a proper amount in hopes of setting up potential bluffs, steals, or to attain proper value in a hand. The central theme of no-limit poker is to “pressure” your opponents, putting the guesswork on them. Here’s an example: A pot containing $1,000 is checked to a late position player on the river, and he/she bets $100. What’s wrong with this message sent by the bettor? Why would anyone bet such a small amount? Do they assume this minimal bet is going to drive most of the players out of the pot, or is it going to invite someone who has checked with a strong, or semi-strong hand to make a play at the pot? I think the latter, putting the pressure back on the original bettor, and I must say that this “betting” mistake is made more often than any other mistake.
Let’s look at the same situation (this time just after the flop), for another examination of the correct way to bet the hand. What should a person in late position holding a decent hand (or trying to steal the pot) bet, when the pot is laying $1000? How about “betting 2/3's of the pot.” This will in most cases be enough to end the draws and eliminate the weaker hands by those who have checked. You know the ones who are only willing to pay a minimal amount to see “another card” that might just make their hand after the flop. The bet pressures all remaining players to consider pot odds, which are very unfavorable to them at this stage facing this size bet. They will also be forced to consider the possibility that their hand may not be strong enough to beat you with or without help on the turn and/or river.
By betting 2/3 or more of the pot, other benefits to the bettor/raiser (aside from garnering information and eliminating to many drawing hands), is that it also sets up the possibility to steal in later rounds, take a free card, or win with another bet on a later round, and at the same time it’s adding value to the pot. What do you do when you find yourself with the nuts at the end, and again the hand is checked to you? Do you bet a minimal amount hoping that you will get a caller or a raise? Or do you again bet an amount that “may,” indicate you could possibly be stealing the pot and thereby induce a call or two from your opponents? I guess the question you need to ask yourself is; wouldn’t it be better to bet $600-$700 and get one caller, than to bet $100 and get multiple callers? Sometimes your bet might look fishy and get someone to challenge you with an ill-advised call. Yet there are times when you can get your (unskilled) opponent to attempt a steal from you? Wouldn’t you prefer they raise your bet and not just raise a $100 bet? Don’t waste your time on betting small amounts to elicit callers or raisers. If you want to make a bet of 2/3 to 3/4 the size of the very large pot, I find no fault in doing so to mix up your play and still extract value from the hand, but never bet the minimum amount into any pot if you expect to have a reasonable chance of winning without holding the top hand. Remember, betting the proper amount puts the pressure on your opponent; they must ask themselves; do you have something or are you bluffing?
Let’s now get back to “opening bets,”as they relate to what the initial round of betting creates. If there are a lot of limpers allowed into a pot, you can generalize and say that the winning hands will be “much stronger” than when the pot is played with fewer players. That is why your big pairs will more often hold up when you raise and eliminate most of the field, instead of being “caught” on the turn or river by a drawing hand that was mistakenly allowed to remain in the hand and see cards “cheaply.”Referring back to lesson 1, you are reminded to raise pre-flop with strong hands the proper amount (X times the posted big blind amount), to reduce the field and strengthen your position to win the pot. It is a mistake to limp in with premium cards and allow others with speculative cards to continue in the hand without paying a price to proceed. NOTE: Unless you are at a very aggressive table and you expect a raise, and you intend to re-raise of call just that person (in order to trap them with an inferior hand).
Here’s one more example of how to bet a hand properly, and this time from out of a “blind position” at the table. Let assume you have 56os in the big blind and see the flop with four other callers, for nothing more than your tournament posted big blind amount
of $50. There is $275 in the pot (small blind folded), and the flop comes 5T6 rainbow. What should you do in this situation? If you said check, you would be wrong (unless it’s an aggressive table and you expect a bet you then can check-raise (more below on this move); if you said bet the minimum, you would be wrong, and if you said bet about $100, you still would be wrong. If you don’t bet more than half the pot, you might set your self up for a horrific beat from someone with top pair already, or you might get drawn out on. You must protect your flopped two pair and make it a bit expensive for anyone with a single top pair, or anyone foolish enough to chase a gut-shot straight, or three-flush to continue. Note: When I say protect your hand; this is not a DEFENSIVE measure, but rather an OFFENSIVE maneuver that you must incorporate into your game. Bet enough to take down the pot or eliminate most of the players in the hand. You stand a greater chance of having your two-pair hold up and to take down your opponents the majority of time using this betting strategy. Allowing your opponents to bet a lesser amount allows them to continue in the hand and quite possibly win all the chips in a pot you built. You just cannot permit this to happen if you expect to become a winning NL player.
Advanced Player Move - When in the blinds and you see a flop very cheaply (no raises), and you know someone at the table will bet if you do indeed check, you can check-raise from the blinds with two pair, or even when you hit top pair, weak kicker. Your check raise from an out a position considered (out of position), indicates huge strength and USUALLY makes others fold. Do not attempt this against a calling station with only top pair, they won't go away.
In lesson #3, I will be discussing additional holdings and making feeler bets
No-Limit Texas Hold’em Lesson #3 – Bluffing, Beating a Bully and Feeler Bets
In lesson #2 we began talking about “Correct Size Bets,”and now I want to discuss the art of bluffing, how to deal with a bully at the tables and making feeler bets. I spoke about make the “correct” size bets into a pot and spotting those who are not betting properly, so now is the time to elaborate on how exploit the table with a bit of larceny (in the art form known as bluffing).
A “bluff” is a bet of some nature when you have little or no chance of winning the pot if someone calls. A “semi-bluff” is a bet, that if called, you don’t hold the best hand, but you have a hand that could improve and be the best hand. Bluffing is primarily attempted to win pots. Some additional benefits can be garnered by its use (advertising for future pots), but you should employ a bluff only when you think it will be successful. It is highly recommended you limit the amount of bluffs attempted, as the fewer attempted, the more effective the bluffs you try will be. If you are getting good cards and dominating the table, players will notice and may think you have been bluffing at some of those pots, so bluff less often when you are picking up more than your share of pots, and bluff a bit more when premium cards are sparse, and you have “table position.” If the field checks to you, I’d be inclined to take their word (they are weak), and fire out a decent sized bet to further convince them to surrender; right now. Most of your opponents won’t be holding strong enough hands to slip in a check-raise, so be prepared to fire enough money into the pot to discourage anyone on a draw from continuing. Note: If they are playing a long shot hand, and continue to draw against you, you can continue to punish them on the turn if the card hitting the board appears to provide little or no help to anyone remaining in the pot.
Bluffing “represents” holding a specific strong hand, as is the case when a third card in a particular suit hits the board and you bet. You are indicating you have a made flush and only those individuals having a flush, a bigger flush, a giant-sized flush draw, or a full house (or house draw), will play back at you. Remember, the amount of money bet in your attempted bluff is relative to the size of the pot, the size of your stack, and the size of your opponents stack (more later in lesson 4, on the influence of stack size). If you bet too little, your opponent might not be deterred and still call. If you bet too much, your opponent might sense you are over betting a hand that lacks real value. Therefore, I suggest you bet an amount that is not considered wimpy, or one that appears to be unusually large. It is also difficult to bluff at times when your opponent can readily see that you have a limited amount of resources (chips), and they have plenty of ammunition in front of them. Additionally, if your opponent is a loose player, your efforts to bluff may not be as effective, so know your opposition, their style, tendencies, and most of all, how they perceive you. If they believe you are a solid or tight player, they will tend to respect your bluff attempts more readily. In the event you are playing way to many hands (who me), don’t expect your bluff attempts to go unnoticed or unchallenged.
Some additional bluffing reminders/tips:
• Bet sizes are your “keys” to putting players on hands.
• Raising with a straight draw, when a flush draw is present is not advised.
• Draws that do not contain a “nut draw” should be played with “position,” and very carefully.
• Bluffers usually have nothing (busted draw) and seldom bluff when they have a hand of uncertainty.
Bullies like shorthanded tables and they love to find opponents with shorter stacks than them. Although you might find it tempting to play a few more hands against them, it is wiser to sit and wait for hand you can extract a great deal of money from them. Keep in mind, any pot entered with a bully sitting at the table is likely to be raised, so be very selective and committed when you do play a hand. Be especially cognizant of the “other” players in the pot and don’t focus entirely on the bully. Players yet to act “behind” you have also noticed the bully and may too be playing stronger hands in hopes of trapping their prey (which might include you). So tend to call a bully most times, rather than raise (unless you have a hand that dictates you want to isolate him or her alone), and see what others (yet to act in the hand), are going to do. You should bluff back at the bully on occasion, giving them a taste of their own medicine, as you might suspect, they tend to have weak holdings and will back off.
A “teaser bet or probing type bet,” is made to entice others to give a player action, or can be a sign of a weak hand. Players who have made hands will put an “undersized” bet, crying for a call or a raise, to tempt opponents into committing more chips. While on occasion, an improper sized feeler bet may indicate the bettor is testing the waters to see if their hand is strong enough to take down the pot. NOTE: Advanced players will do this when they are strong; hoping you will act as if their bet indicates weakness! Be very observant when your opponent puts an “unusual” amount into a bet, and consider the size of the bet to the existing pot before you decide whether or not the player is enticing you to give them action, or is weak! Playing back at a weak player will net you the pot on most occasions, but only those times you “read” them correctly.