When is it ok to mark someone as a regular?

Hey guys, have been usuing holdem manager the past few days and am in AWE of its superpowers.

Thing is i wait till i have enough hands on people and am starting to color code more people than ever before.

Ok, so i know nits are like vpip pfr something like both 15 and below right?

When do we mark someone as a reg/ good player? What are the ideal stats of a reg?

and any other info/tips you might have would be greatly appreciated.

thanks so much.

I use the color coding (the highlighted boxes that go around the HUD) to draw attention to the obvious player types at the table just in case I miss the obvious stats. (I'm probably guilty of multi-tabling too much, so it's nice to get a big red flag for a few types.) I wouldn't get too worried about color coding as stats are going to determine a whole lot more than colors, obviously. And if you use NoteCaddy (which I highly recommend, btw), you'll find that the "Badges" are like color coding on super steroids. But I digress....

That being said here's what my criteria look like. For me the VPIP/PFR ratio is key:

• Big fat idiot fish: VPIP >32, VPIP/PFR >2 (which basically means a 40/19 player would qualify)
• Aggro Maniac spewtard: VPIP >32, VPIP/PFR <2
• Super Tight Nits: VPIP <15, VPIP/PFR >2, AF <3
• *REGS: VPIP 15-25, VPIP/PFR <1.5, AF >2.5

What's also important is that the min # hands is 100 otherwise they're probably just not worth flagging. Also, I'm assuming you're playing full ring? If not you can widen the VPIPs but I still wouldn't change the ratio or the AF.

I classify the non-passive players according to their PFR stat like this:

NIT: PFR < 14
TAG: PFR 14-22
LAG: PFR 23+

Normally colour coding after 50 hands. Don't worry about coding for reg or not imo, you can always see the number of hands you've played against them in the HUD.

rowhousepd said:

I use the color coding (the highlighted boxes that go around the HUD) to draw attention to the obvious player types at the table just in case I miss the obvious stats. (I'm probably guilty of multi-tabling too much, so it's nice to get a big red flag for a few types.) I wouldn't get too worried about color coding as stats are going to determine a whole lot more than colors, obviously. And if you use NoteCaddy (which I highly recommend, btw), you'll find that the "Badges" are like color coding on super steroids. But I digress....

That being said here's what my criteria look like. For me the VPIP/PFR ratio is key:

• Big fat idiot fish: VPIP >32, VPIP/PFR >2 (which basically means a 40/19 player would qualify)
• Aggro Maniac spewtard: VPIP >32, VPIP/PFR <2
• Super Tight Nits: VPIP <15, VPIP/PFR >2, AF <3
• *REGS: VPIP 15-25, VPIP/PFR <1.5, AF >2.5

What's also important is that the min # hands is 100 otherwise they're probably just not worth flagging. Also, I'm assuming you're playing full ring? If not you can widen the VPIPs but I still wouldn't change the ratio or the AF.

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thank you so much man. really nice explanation. will print this and stick it on my wall.

micromachine said:

I classify the non-passive players according to their PFR stat like this:

NIT: PFR < 14
TAG: PFR 14-22
LAG: PFR 23+

Normally colour coding after 50 hands. Don't worry about coding for reg or not imo, you can always see the number of hands you've played against them in the HUD.

Click to expand...

thanks alot micro. will keep in mind. i see what you mean about the reg too. just good to know whos doing what.

My full colour code using the Stars colour codes is like this:

Red = nit (eg. 15/12 or 10/8 players)
Orange = TAG (eg. 24/20 or 20/26)
Purple = LAG (eg. 30/25 or 45/32)
Light green = Semi-loose passive (eg. 30/14 or 45/20)
Dark green = Loose passive (eg. 30/4 or 55/8)
Yellow = Tight passive (eg. 20/4 or 15/1)
Light blue = Semi tight passive (eg. 20/10 or 25/12)
Purple = maniac (eg. 85/56 or 70/40)
Dark blue = Likely fish, needs more hands (<50 hands but seems like fish)
Brown = Massive fish (any stats just a massive fish)

You can probably put Semi-loose passive and loose passive in the same category though. Main thing I look for when table selecting is not too many reds and oranges and of course any blues, purples, browns or greens. For this reason it might be good if you use the Stars colour coding instead of HEM.

micromachine said:

My full colour code using the Stars colour codes is like this:

Red = nit (eg. 15/12 or 10/8 players)
Orange = TAG (eg. 24/20 or 20/26)
Purple = LAG (eg. 30/25 or 45/32)
Light green = Semi-loose passive (eg. 30/14 or 45/20)
Dark green = Loose passive (eg. 30/4 or 55/8)
Yellow = Tight passive (eg. 20/4 or 15/1)
Light blue = Semi tight passive (eg. 20/10 or 25/12)
Purple = maniac (eg. 85/56 or 70/40)
Dark blue = Likely fish, needs more hands (<50 hands but seems like fish)
Brown = Massive fish (any stats just a massive fish)

You can probably put Semi-loose passive and loose passive in the same category though. Main thing I look for when table selecting is not too many reds and oranges and of course any blues, purples, browns or greens. For this reason it might be good if you use the Stars colour coding instead of HEM.

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first of all, thank you for taking the time to type down all this info. really helpful. REALLY helpful.

second of all,yes i do use the stars color coding cause its always going to be there regardless of what im using .

I like the way you have everything color coded. and the subcategories as well.

im going to write that stuff down and maybe throw some extra colors in my mix. cause i only have fish as fish. i dont use aggro fish or passive fish but im going to blend those in.

Ever since i got this programme,the game has changed bigtime. im winning much more, and i know who im up against. thnks again man.

the good news is that the stats of the hands that i have so far are exactly where they are supposed to be taking into consideration the reg stats above so im pleased with that. i have 5000 hands. is that a good sample size? (on myself)

You're welcome, glad you're enjoying the tracker

Well, 5000 is certainly enough to look at most of your own overall stats like VPIP, PFR, 3bet, cbet etc etc but not ones that take ages to converge like river cbet and a few others. And probably not really enough to look properly at your positional stats, maybe need more like 20k for that.

What are your VPIP, PFR and 3bet?

well this is what i have for 5310 hands. is it ok?

Ya. You're a TAG

You playing with proper BRM now then?



Oh and I just saw a typo in my colour coding post, instead of

Orange = TAG (eg. 24/20 or 20/26)

it should be

Orange = TAG (eg. 24/20 or 20/16)

micromachine said:

Ya. You're a TAG

You playing with proper BRM now then?



Oh and I just saw a typo in my colour coding post, instead of

Orange = TAG (eg. 24/20 or 20/26)

it should be

Orange = TAG (eg. 24/20 or 20/16)

Click to expand...

Look, im not playing exactly proper brm but.i deposited 10 euros(13 dollars) just to test out the programme. i decided to play 2nl only(which i never play cause it sucks but its good for a try) , and ive turned the 13 into 30 playing 2nl in the past 5k hands. not too bad id say. lol.

When you see them on many tables

If you have looked him up on PTR and see he plays many hands

Once you have made a couple notes on him

vinyl: yeah you're TAGy, and I'd definitely not want to be a table with a lot of players like you, but your VPIP/PFR ratio could probably be a bit lower, imo. Not a biggie though. And personally, I'm a tad tighter in general at full ring unless the villains are tight at a specific table. You're definitely on the right track.

Seriously though, not to sound like a advertisement, but if you're into color coding in general, you'll love the badge features of NoteCaddy. It works slightly differently than assigning a color, but you can make icons appear for players based on very specific leaks. It can get pretty deep in terms of how narrowly you can define a badge for someone. My favorite three:

• Calls 3B preflop them folds to flop Cbet in pos over 40%. (You need literally zero equity in your hand to make this a play break even with a medium sized cbet.)
• Cbets flop then folds to raise HU over 50%. (Ditto about 0 equity needed)
• Open raises pre, misses cbet in pos, then folds to turn bet 40%.

Each of these players get tagged with a "badge" (icon) of your choosing or of your design. You get the idea. Check it out. And good luck!

rowhousepd said:

vinyl: yeah you're TAGy, and I'd definitely not want to be a table with a lot of players like you, but your VPIP/PFR ratio could probably be a bit lower, imo. Not a biggie though. And personally, I'm a tad tighter in general at full ring unless the villains are tight at a specific table. You're definitely on the right track.

Seriously though, not to sound like a advertisement, but if you're into color coding in general, you'll love the badge features of NoteCaddy. It works slightly differently than assigning a color, but you can make icons appear for players based on very specific leaks. It can get pretty deep in terms of how narrowly you can define a badge for someone. My favorite three:

• Calls 3B preflop them folds to flop Cbet in pos over 40%. (You need literally zero equity in your hand to make this a play break even with a medium sized cbet.)
• Cbets flop then folds to raise HU over 50%. (Ditto about 0 equity needed)
• Open raises pre, misses cbet in pos, then folds to turn bet 40%.

Each of these players get tagged with a "badge" (icon) of your choosing or of your design. You get the idea. Check it out. And good luck!

Click to expand...

definitely man. ill look into it. and thnks alot for info. much appreciated. am going to be working on minimimizing vpip/prf ratio as well.