need basics on cash play

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noname65

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I've played a lot of MTTs over the years, but not a lot of cash, and the little cash I did play I didn't play very intelligently. I am thinking of trying cash play just to rejuvenate myself after a long MTT losing streak. So I need to ask a few basic questions.

I am generally a very tight player who doesn't rely on intuition nearly at all. Maybe once in 1,000 hands I'll call or shove with K7 offsuit but most of the time I play strong hands. That doesn't stop me from losing with them quite a bit of the time, but I win my share of hands as well. I cultivate a tight table image and like to pot bet and make continuation pot bets.

Right now I have $74 on Party and about $70 on Tilt. (I also have $30 on Poker770 but they have almost no cash action at all.) So I guess I'm asking whether I should play limit or NL, and either way, what limits should I start at? (Feel free to ask clarifying questions.)
 
Poof

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You do need to be tighter in cash than tournaments, K7 even sooted is not in my range, but I am nitty to a fault...
We have alot of cash game players who can give some awesome advice and also check out the cash game section of the forum.
I am about to jump back in after a few month break.
 
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noname65

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Thanks for the response, Poofy. Normally, even something like A9 suited is not in my range if I'm UTG or in early or middle position, unless the table is playing very tight or passive. The K7 example was just to show what I do once every 1,000 hands for variety.

I would have asked my questions in the cash forum except that it's so ridiculously basic that I thought it belonged in the learner's forum. If the admins or mods think it should be moved they're free to move it.
 
jbbb

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I don't play much cash games, but from what I gather you're meant to play hands that can flop monsters. That means suited aces (for the nut flush) or suited connectors (for the straight/ flush possibilities). The big hands such as aces and kings aren't as profitable in cash games as people arn't going to pay them off as much, and loosing a big pot is probably more likely than winning one (as they're hard to laydown).

This mostly applys to higher stakes though. In lower stakes AA/KK gets paid off pretty well.
Also stacks are a lot deeper than in tourny's and SNG's so the implied odds are a lot greater.
 
Jagsti

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The big hands such as aces and kings aren't as profitable in cash games as people arn't going to pay them off as much, and loosing a big pot is probably more likely than winning one (as they're hard to laydown).

Ok this may be out of context to your whole post, but please dont post information like this if you have no evidence to support it.

AA/KK will be, without a shadow of a doubt, your top 2 winning poker hands you will play in a cash game.
 
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mikejm

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I don't play much cash games, but from what I gather you're meant to play hands that can flop monsters. That means suited aces (for the nut flush) or suited connectors (for the straight/ flush possibilities). The big hands such as aces and kings aren't as profitable in cash games as people arn't going to pay them off as much, and loosing a big pot is probably more likely than winning one (as they're hard to laydown).

This mostly applys to higher stakes though. In lower stakes AA/KK gets paid off pretty well.
Also stacks are a lot deeper than in tourny's and SNG's so the implied odds are a lot greater.


Do you think you are more likely to get paid off on a three to a flush board when you have 67 suited or when someone flops top pair and you have AA. It isn't that difficult to win with AA/KK.
 
Arjonius

Arjonius

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Assuming the $174 is your entire roll or close, any cash level you have enough to play is beatable with pretty straightforward TAG play. At micros, a lot of the winnings are due to opponents' poor and mediocre plays. As an admitted simplification, all you have to do is sit there, let them give you money, and give less back.
 
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