toots babos
ex-tornament grinder
Bronze Level
ok i think i get you......
so if i have 2358x, personally i'd be happy hitting any 4, 6 or 7 so by that method you've shown my odds would roughly be 12/47 = 25.5% of hitting the 8 low and lets say you're up against someone who stands on J lows quite often you could add in 9's,T's also so that would be 20/47=44.4% chance of hitting a 10 low or better?
Guess this should be 8/47 * 4/46 because for the first card it doesn't matter which of them you catch.4/47 * 4/46 = ~0.75% chance to catch your 2 cards
Yeah, but we don't care about very detailed odds so while playing and guessing our equity on the fly just keep it simple...12 outs is 25 %....16 outs is 33 % etcok i think i get you......
so if i have 2358x, personally i'd be happy hitting any 4, 6 or 7 so by that method you've shown my odds would roughly be 12/47 = 25.5% of hitting the 8 low and lets say you're up against someone who stands on J lows quite often you could add in 9's,T's also so that would be 20/47=44.4% chance of hitting a 10 low or better?
while this is true, personally I don't think that way because there's also a lot of broadway cards in those folded hands.Math is correct but then again you might not getting the correct outs.
Other outs might already folded or being held by you opponents.
Can't do anything about your time, but if it is about the funds I would be more than glad to work out a backing agreement with you if necessary.i would mainly have played this game in cash games and whilst mostly i'd play a full ring game of 7 which seemed to be an easy strategy of play monster draws or 3 bet pats in position with the intent of checking it down, I often played a few games HU/3 handed higher up in stakes so thats where i feel knowing equity for your hand/draws will come in handy for making borderline plays.
Well, where in those tournaments I know and have detailed notes on most players which I think is more important than doing exact equity calculations, I agree in cashgames these calculations are way more important.
Basically, in a tournament I just try most of the time to avoid borderline situations, in a cashgame you should take every opportunity you're slightly ahead because in the long run it'll make you money.
So yeah, I think in a cashgame your calculations should be more detailed.
i quite like the look of the 2nd link you posted with the equity calculator, i must put some more examples into it but from my quick fiddle around with it i notice the hand sample size is quite small for the calculations although im sure that the %'s would be near enough bang on or 1% out here and there.
Glad it's of use.
do you have much experience from playing a short handed version of this game?
Cash, not at all, tournaments yeah, because I made so many deep runs, final tables and first and second place finishes so I automatically got to play shorthanded, as well being shortstacked as being the big stack.
from what i've read and to back it up from my experiences pat J's and pat Q's tend to be quite profitable in most situations due to a pat J being a favourite vs a 1 draw hand and a pat Q being a favourite vs a 2 draw hand.
True, and also if they draw you'll most of the time get to know if your J or Q is good enough because of their betting patterns.
Tho, being ahead predraw with these hands, it's still borderline, so I tend to try to get to a cheap showdown (pot control whenever possible).
you mention something about snowing.... now im not totally sure if im correct with what i believe this to be but is this when you do a "fake pat" ie. stand pat on a pair and play your hand as if it were a premium?
Correct...basically it's just setting up a coldstone bluff with the intention patting a trashhand to look very strong.
I only do it in position, so if I get callers to my predraw raise I'll get to know how many cards they draw.
Obv, if there's callers also patting, or a lot of callers just drawing 1 I cutoff the snow and switch to damage control
if so then then i find this to be a great strategy more so in a NL 5 card draw game than a 2-7 SD game since in 5 card draw your opponents tend to feel they need something like a flush or higher to call you down and most of the time will fold better hands to you because of this but in 2-7 most of the opponents will still call you with hands as bad as a bad 10 without even thinking but i still tend to do this once every 50hands or so in a tourney if i need to make something happen due to not getting any hands and when used right in combination with your image being tight it seems to work more often.
It's a great strategy in drawing games like 2-7 , 5-card draw and Badugi, but as with every strategy, we don't want to overdo it and we really need to take care against which players we do it (hence playernotes come in very handy).
will you be playing the micro millions event 2-7 SD draw game?
I definitely plan on playing if it fits my schedule.
if i have the time and the funds available i will give it a crack and if you do maybe we'll meet....... on the final table
Guess this should be 8/47 * 4/46 because for the first card it doesn't matter which of them you catch.
Guess this was one of my not-duh momentsthat would be correct, bit of a duh moment lol. thx
thanks for you reply 10058765
i've never really made notes on players in this game as i tend to keep most of the information i need stuck into my brain but if i were to start what would you suggest would be the most valuable bits of information needed to note?
Notes about betting/calling behaviour.
For example there's a player who always shows the same behaviour after drawing.
A check means bad hand, a minraise means a 9 or 10 and a big raise means a 7 or 8.
I just noted: "big raise is strong" , to me that is enough to know what to do against this player.
Another player always calls raises after drawing, even with an ace.
I just noted : "calls with A".
So if I'm against this player I know I can't bluff him of his hand, but can valuebet big with my strong hands.
Tho, before even making notes, I start with colour tagging players.
Unpredictable very good players I tag green, solid but just good players get yellow, average get orange and plain bad get red.
...... so at the moment im trying to rebuild a roll playing the privilege freerolls which isn't going the best due to a massive cold deck hitting me in the face but i will continue to try
At least wish you the best of rungood while trying to rebuild. Don't know if you're already in the freeroll club, but the CC freerolls are the best you can find and a few deep runs in them could make you a good start.
you say you've made a lot of notes on your players in 2-7..... i'd love to hear what you have noted on me if you dont mind sharing?