What stats do you look for when choosing a table and why?

I choose low pot and low pp/flop because I'm tight and want to play with other tight players to avoid getting bluffed out.

That is the worst way to select tables imo.

The best tables are high player / flop and big pot tables because that is usually where the fish are. As you are a tight player, you want to get on these tables, wait for good hands and stack the loose fish throwing their money around. You will make a lot more doing that than swapping coolers with a bunch of nits.

micromachine said:

That is the worst way to select tables imo.

The best tables are high player / flop and big pot tables because that is usually where the fish are. As you are a tight player, you want to get on these tables, wait for good hands and stack the loose fish throwing their money around. You will make a lot more doing that than swapping coolers with a bunch of nits.

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^ uhhhhhh yeah this.

if im playing a large volume (and therefore obv tight) im going for the tables like micro suggested. if im playing 6 or less then ill go for the tight ones cos i LAG up.

you should be playing the opposite style of everyone at the table as best you can.

Ok, I'll give it a whirl.

Also BB/100 and bb/100?. Big Bets / big blinds?

Assuming the Big Bet is twice the big blind, which is the correct stat for measuring success?

You can use either to measure your success. One BB is 2 bb, so you are basically measuring the same thing

Caesura said:

Ok, I'll give it a whirl.

Also BB/100 and bb/100?. Big Bets / big blinds?

Assuming the Big Bet is twice the big blind, which is the correct stat for measuring success?

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everyone uses big blinds per hundred these days it seems. seems weird to use big bets per hundred to me unless youre a limit player...

So if someone says they are 5/100 at $ 0.01/0.02 then they are winning 10c per 100 hands - and that's considered a reasonable return?

5bb/100 is 10c per 100 hands, that's 2.5BB/100. It's a good return but considerably higher winrates are achievable at 2nl.

Sure, it seems to be either nothing or about 30bb per session

ive never seen a respectable sized 2NL sample over 20bb/100. but yeah plenty of times youll be blessed with a 70bb/100 session, and other times youll struggle to make a cent. it all evens out

jchoop said:

if im playing a large volume (and therefore obv tight) im going for the tables like micro suggested. if im playing 6 or less then ill go for the tight ones cos i LAG up.

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I'm sure that works out for you but less experienced players wont be able to play LAG, so I think playing tight on the loose tables will always be more profitable for them regardless of how many tables they play.

jchoop said:

ive never seen a respectable sized 2NL sample over 20bb/100. but yeah plenty of times youll be blessed with a 70bb/100 session, and other times youll struggle to make a cent. it all evens out

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If i remember well you mention on some thread you make 18bb/100, rigth?.

So, anything between 10-16 bb/100 should be good?.

anything over 5bb/100 at any stake over a big sample is considered crushing. 10bb/100 at 50NL+ is like virtually unheard of and incredibly boss

Sit down play a few rounds. If you feel you can spot the fish and beat them, stay. If not after a few rounds get up and leave and try elsewhere. Once you get good enough to spot fish then it won't matter the table as long as 1 fish is their.

i go for the highest poss vpip/-prs/flp -avg pot......now im looking at avg stack.....the higher the better for my nitty style......never thought about going the other way like what jchoop mentioned......might try a lag style in a low stats game..

srsly al dont bother. when i said that, its more for higher stakes where the play is actually aggressive etc. at micros, youre much better off playing tight with a range that dominates everyone elses to make your dollars. not to mention that looser play requires a much more solid poker ability as well as the fact that you need to be playing against people who can fold, which is why we prefer tag/nitting over lagging at supermicros

ok jchoop thanks, i will adopt a lag style when i get to 100nl

^ lol

Don't use winrates to judge whether a player is bad or not, they take 1million hands or so to converge.

Just look for players with fishy stats. 64/20, 35/15s and so on. Are you really going to jib them off for a reg whos running bad?

Yea my stats are lag and I play we'll post flop. My stats look horrid. So a good player can see I'm agressive and take advantage of my lag style, but the fish never adjust. Lag style has annoying downswings but great upswings also. 6h is best bc you are forced to play more hands love it

Deco said:

Don't use winrates to judge whether a player is bad or not, they take 1million hands or so to converge.

Just look for players with fishy stats. 64/20, 35/15s and so on. Are you really going to jib them off for a reg whos running bad?

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What do those stats mean?

The 1st number is vpip. Voluntary put in play.
That means they themselves joined in the hand.
The numbers are % of total hands recorded by the poker tracker.
So say you have 100 hands recorded and the 1st number is 64. They played
64 hands out of 100. This is high

The 2nd number varies between personal use of your HUD. Anyone care to fill in that blank for me lol

Vpip/PFR

VPIP = % of hands played (Voluntarily Put $ In Pot)
PFR = % of hands raised (PreFlop Raise)

VPIP pretty much decides whether someone is loose or tight. If you play 6max and somneone is over 40% they are a fish.

PFR shows how aggressive someone is preflop. If they're preflop raise is less than 66% of their VPIP they're either a fish or tight passive.

Alot of general assumptions can be made on a player based on their VPIP and PFR.

^ that's what I was trying to do but he made it sexy haha

Thanks.
Any idea of what is a reasonable VPP for Omaha?