Pre-flop raise sizes. - Why?

thepokerkid123

thepokerkid123

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The standard raise sizes seem to be mostly 3bb+1 per limper and 4bb+1 per limper.

Also at least in cash games it is benefical to raise more/less based on position. Basically adding an extra 1bb in EP and using your standard raise in LP will show better results. Not sure about tournaments.


Anyway, recently I've been plugging a lot of leaks that have been in my game for a long time and one major leak was that my bet sizing sucked. The biggest adjustment was pre-flop going from 3bb to 4bb which saw an immediate increase in my winrate. I only made that adjustment as a trial and error thing, the fact is I don't know why one size should be more optimal than the other.




My thoughts:
Smaller raise sizes favour post-flop play, keeping the SPR high. Big raises create a bigger edge on earlier streets, but on later streets can result in a closer to neutral EV situation - i.e. both players are getting correct odds to either stack off or chase their draws.

Smaller raises are best used with a wide range. Your raise size shouldn't be based on the strength of your hand, but basing it on the strength of your range is quite good (in my opinion). The smaller your pre-flop raise the smaller the 'mistake' you're making by playing a weaker range. Similarly if you're playing very tight then big raises maximise your edge in having a stronger range (and make it difficult for people to proffitably chase implied odds).

Smaller raises favour whoever is in position because the SPR is high. Bigger raises should also favour whoever is in position because bigger pots are being played in position. Both of these statements can't be true, either a bigger raise or a smaller raise is more beneficial but I don't know which.




So anyway, any thoughts on how to choose pre-flop raise sizes?
 
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As usual, it depends.

I'm basing this more off live play ($1/$2) than online play, but I base my raises on position, other stack sizes, action in front and how I want to play my hand.

Like, if I have AA in EP, if I make a really large raise ($40 preflop raises are not uncommon in live games I play) to say, $20 or $25, I'm trying to get it heads up or 3-way at most. If I make a smaller raise ($12 represents a small raise in these games), I'm hoping to get repopped so I can four-bet and either get it in pre or feel comfortable stacking off on most flops/turns.

If the smaller raise gets lots of calls, I playing pot control and getting ready to fold on the flop if there's serious action.

If I'm reraising with AA, in position I'm raising much smaller on the button, reraising much larger in the blinds.
 
slycbnew

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Really nice post pokerkid!

The standard raise sizes seem to be mostly 3bb+1 per limper and 4bb+1 per limper.

Also at least in cash games it is benefical to raise more/less based on position. Basically adding an extra 1bb in EP and using your standard raise in LP will show better results. Not sure about tournaments.


Anyway, recently I've been plugging a lot of leaks that have been in my game for a long time and one major leak was that my bet sizing sucked. The biggest adjustment was pre-flop going from 3bb to 4bb which saw an immediate increase in my winrate. I only made that adjustment as a trial and error thing, the fact is I don't know why one size should be more optimal than the other.

One additional thing to keep in mind is the opponents you're playing. If you are playing opponents who will call a larger opening hand w trash hands, you want to make your opens larger. As a generality, I see more players at 50nl and less who will make these calls, and fewer at 100nl where you're playing more regs than at lower limits - I use 4x as a standard at 50nl and down, and 3.5x (psb) as a standard at 100nl.

My thoughts:
Smaller raise sizes favour post-flop play, keeping the SPR high. Big raises create a bigger edge on earlier streets, but on later streets can result in a closer to neutral EV situation - i.e. both players are getting correct odds to either stack off or chase their draws.

Key point. Using your opening betsizing pf to create good postflop SPR situations is a really nice skill to acquire (one that I don't exploit enough). When you're playing a drawing hand, you definitely want a higher SPR to continue postflop. The converse is that if you have a hand that isn't a drawing hand (big pp's), you want a lower SPR so larger betsizing makes sense there.

Smaller raises are best used with a wide range. Your raise size shouldn't be based on the strength of your hand, but basing it on the strength of your range is quite good (in my opinion). The smaller your pre-flop raise the smaller the 'mistake' you're making by playing a weaker range. Similarly if you're playing very tight then big raises maximise your edge in having a stronger range (and make it difficult for people to proffitably chase implied odds).

Another key point. The wider your range, the less you want to bloat the pot pf, which limits your ability to make plays postflop. As villains get more agg pf, you also don't want to be committed w every hand you want to open when you start getting 3bet alot. My range is relatively narrow in EP and relatively wide in LP, so I use larger betsizes in EP and smaller in LP (independent of the hand I hold - I make the same smaller opening w AA that I do w 85s on the btn).

Smaller raises favour whoever is in position because the SPR is high. Bigger raises should also favour whoever is in position because bigger pots are being played in position. Both of these statements can't be true, either a bigger raise or a smaller raise is more beneficial but I don't know which.

imo, position is position and is an advantage whether SPR is high or low (whether the pot is larger or smaller). Low SPR favors whoever's not drawing, so it cancels out a bit of the advantage of position (in other words, if stacks aren't deep enough to make a play in position, the overall advantage position provides decreases).

As an example, you end up playing a pot where you flop a flush draw in position against an utg open. Villain's SPR is 4 or less on the flop, and he bets the flop. Raising/shoving here has no fold equity against any overpair/top pair hand. If Villain's SPR is over 13, raising has more FE, even against an overpair. Semi-bluffing in position loses it's effectiveness if you know Villain's pot committed.

Of course, position is still an advantage from the standpoint that you get to see what he does first, it's just not as big an advantage.


So anyway, any thoughts on how to choose pre-flop raise sizes?

fwiw, there's a really good thread from a few months ago on this topic, but I'm too lazy right now to try and find it... :D
 
slycbnew

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One other thought - I rarely vary my betsizing based on table conditions, and this is a leak imo. In other words, when I'm trying to isolate a fish who I think will call w a very wide range, I ought to be opening/raising bigger than I do against a reg, independent of my betsizing standards.

Yet another thing for me to work on, sigh... :eek:
 
Stu_Ungar

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One other thought - I rarely vary my betsizing based on table conditions, and this is a leak imo. In other words, when I'm trying to isolate a fish who I think will call w a very wide range, I ought to be opening/raising bigger than I do against a reg, independent of my betsizing standards.

Yet another thing for me to work on, sigh... :eek:

Depends on what you are isolating with and why.

If your plan is to c-bet and take down most post with ATC then a slightly smaller isolation size is better.

If you have a big hand and want to be 2 streets for value on a lot of flops, then bigger is better.

Fish who call with a wide range PF call with a wide range post flop. Being as you will miss many flops the smaller size is better (4-5BB)

When you have a nitty player who folds a ton post flop then a bigger raise is better as he wont float or call light so much so 5-6BB but a guy playing like this will usually not be calling a wide range pre.

Against the nitty types you can play ATC but against the looser types you need big cards so you can flop TP or hold an over pair or have a chance of catching something on the turn should he float.
 
slycbnew

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Fish who call with a wide range PF call with a wide range post flop. Being as you will miss many flops the smaller size is better (4-5BB)

Agreed, good points.

Recently ran across an idea (from a vid) regarding villains who call too widely pf and peel postflop a lot - if you see someone who calls too wide pf and calls the flop a lot, you can open a standard amount pf, bet larger on the flop (say a little larger than 3/4psb), and smaller on the turn (say a little over 1/2psb) depending on how the board plays out - this will fold out a lot of second pair and drawing hands, even some weak top pair hands - the extra money we make by making the flop betsize larger is good, and the smaller turn betsize decreases our loss when we have to fold. If we think that's the majority of his range based on board texture and the fact that he calls too wide, we can do this with a pretty wide range.

Still playing with this, but so far I think it's working out well at 50nl and 100nl (I two barrel a lot) - I don't know if this would work at, say, 10nl where everyone calls down through the river w any piece of the board. Really have to be careful w board textures when trying to do this too - really helps if the turn is a scare card. But it's given me an additional tool beyond looking at fold to flop cbet to make my decisions pf.

I desparately need to re-configure my HUD, I haven't customized it at all since I switched to HEM, so I don't have fold to turn cbet setup yet...
 
Stu_Ungar

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Agreed, good points.

Recently ran across an idea (from a vid) regarding villains who call too widely pf and peel postflop a lot - if you see someone who calls too wide pf and calls the flop a lot, you can open a standard amount pf, bet larger on the flop (say a little larger than 3/4psb), and smaller on the turn (say a little over 1/2psb) depending on how the board plays out - this will fold out a lot of second pair and drawing hands, even some weak top pair hands - the extra money we make by making the flop betsize larger is good, and the smaller turn betsize decreases our loss when we have to fold. If we think that's the majority of his range based on board texture and the fact that he calls too wide, we can do this with a pretty wide range.

Still playing with this, but so far I think it's working out well at 50nl and 100nl (I two barrel a lot) - I don't know if this would work at, say, 10nl where everyone calls down through the river w any piece of the board. Really have to be careful w board textures when trying to do this too - really helps if the turn is a scare card. But it's given me an additional tool beyond looking at fold to flop cbet to make my decisions pf.

I desparately need to re-configure my HUD, I haven't customized it at all since I switched to HEM, so I don't have fold to turn cbet setup yet...

That would def works so long as they can fold a had on the turn.

Essentially you are not doing this against all loose players, you are doing this against loose players who understand that you are c-betting a lot and calling you to see if they can take down the pot on the turn.

This is different to people who are calling because they have bottom pair and think it might be best (these will call down 3 streets)
 
dwolfg

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Personally, I make the same size bet regardless of position, or hand, if I am to play. I can see the argument for changing the bet size based on position though. I agree with Phil Gordon's reasoning for betting smaller in early position and larger in late position. As stated before, the person in position will always have an advantage based on having more information than his/her opponent. Now I would rather play a larger pot when I have that advantage rather than when my opponent has that advantage and I am at the disadvantage.
 
F Paulsson

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Personally, I make the same size bet regardless of position, or hand, if I am to play. I can see the argument for changing the bet size based on position though. I agree with Phil Gordon's reasoning for betting smaller in early position and larger in late position. As stated before, the person in position will always have an advantage based on having more information than his/her opponent. Now I would rather play a larger pot when I have that advantage rather than when my opponent has that advantage and I am at the disadvantage.
But there are two sides to that coin: Out of position, you're better off making the pot bigger preflop because that leaves less room for your in-position-opponent to maneuver postflop. To see this, consider open-shoving preflop: You've completely negated your positional disadvantage. It's obviously, eh, "sub-optimal" for other reasons but the basic principle still applies with smaller raise sizes as well.

When I'm playing only a few tables, I'll open large under the gun and decrease my raise size as I get closer to the button. In practise, with 6+ tables, I just 3x it. I still minraise the button sometimes depending on who's in the blind (frequent 3-bettors specifically) but all other positions I'm virtually always 3xing it.
 
moeraj

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I always bet more pre-flop when out of position with good starting hand because i want less people taking the flop if I'm going to auto-raise after flop.This is a part of my game i have been questioning lately but I am a trap player and I prefer to keep more people in the pot when i have position on them. I think my smaller raises from position are causing some of the suckouts I experience. Anyone have any ideas on this?
 
dwolfg

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But there are two sides to that coin: Out of position, you're better off making the pot bigger preflop because that leaves less room for your in-position-opponent to maneuver postflop. To see this, consider open-shoving preflop: You've completely negated your positional disadvantage. It's obviously, eh, "sub-optimal" for other reasons but the basic principle still applies with smaller raise sizes as well.

When I'm playing only a few tables, I'll open large under the gun and decrease my raise size as I get closer to the button. In practise, with 6+ tables, I just 3x it. I still minraise the button sometimes depending on who's in the blind (frequent 3-bettors specifically) but all other positions I'm virtually always 3xing it.

Unless you are talking about short-stacked play and being pot-committed with standard c-bet or a table of nits, I don't see how that leaves less room for postflop positional play. You'll have to explain that to me, if you could.
 
thepokerkid123

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Moeraj, being a "trap player" is going to cause you a lot of problems. Most of your opponents should be fish (if they're not, you need to table select better) and against them it's just a matter of taking them to value town.

Dwolfg, I think Chris Ferguson is another advocate of that method. Betting smaller in early position (he thinks your raises get more respect in EP and so don't need to be as big) and bigger in late position. I really don't think there are many successful cash game players who agree with them about it though, it's really backwards logic. In EP your range is stronger, you need a lower SPR and you are more inclined to have the hand end pre-flop or on the flop, you really don't want to be having to make many big bets on rivers (because your range is mostly one pair hands).
I understand that you want most of the money you wager to be bet from position, so having bigger pots in position is definately a good thing but most of the advantages to position come from a high SPR.
 
F Paulsson

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Unless you are talking about short-stacked play and being pot-committed with standard c-bet or a table of nits, I don't see how that leaves less room for postflop positional play. You'll have to explain that to me, if you could.

First extreme: Shove preflop. Obviously positional doesn't come into play.

Lessening the extreme slightly: Open to 30xBB preflop. You will have one bet left on the flop, so position doesn't come into play.

Lessening the extreme further: Open to 10xBB. You'll be committed after your first c-bet on most flops you connect with.

... and then you just keep lessening the extreme. Postflop maneuverability isn't something you have or don't have; it's a matter of degree. Consider this: I think 97s is an easy call on the button if I'm 150 blinds deep versus the opener and he opens to 3x. I also think it's an easy call if we're 100 deep and he opens to 2x. I think it's a fold if he opens to 5x and we're 100 deep.

By opening bigger, you cut down their implied odds. The ONLY (yes, only) reason we play in position is because our implied odds are higher when we have more control over the situation. The bigger your preflop raise, the harder it is for me (if I have position on you) to postflop make up for the fact that I have a weaker hand than you do. This is not just a matter of which hands I play; every hand I'm dealt where you are a preflop favorite over me lose a little value for every extra cent you put into the pot before the flop. And when I lose, you gain.

("What if we have a stronger hand" is perhaps the obvious retort to this, but it's a non-starter: If we have the stronger hand preflop, then WE are the ones who should look to cut down on our opponent's implied odds)
 
F Paulsson

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Dwolfg, I think Chris Ferguson is another advocate of that method. Betting smaller in early position (he thinks your raises get more respect in EP and so don't need to be as big) and bigger in late position. I really don't think there are many successful cash game players who agree with them about it though, it's really backwards logic. In EP your range is stronger, you need a lower SPR and you are more inclined to have the hand end pre-flop or on the flop, you really don't want to be having to make many big bets on rivers (because your range is mostly one pair hands).
I understand that you want most of the money you wager to be bet from position, so having bigger pots in position is definately a good thing but most of the advantages to position come from a high SPR.

Re: bold part. It's interesting you should point this out, because I took a coaching lesson for Matt Matros before playing in the wsop, and he also advocated opening smaller in earlier position, but I can't think of a single cash game specialist who would not advocate the exact opposite. I think the important difference between cash games and tournaments come from the fact that in tournaments (this is according to Matt Matros) the vast, vast majority of chips you win will be from bluffs, but this is of course the precise opposite in cash games.
 
moeraj

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The idea of trapping fish is that they cannot put down top pair and top kicker so if you have a true monster I am hoping that they hit 2 pair. I know that occasionally i get caught up to , which is why you need to be able to fold to a lively board. In actuality, my trap game accounts for most of my profits on micro limit cash tables. I am talking about trapping with big hands and not in situations where you need to protect your hand because you have top pair or two pair against a possible flush or straight draw.A lot of my trap plays are cut short by a lively board.
 
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