Agreed, 3D sites ARE fun - PKR is a treat!
Unfortunately I've not had the good fortune to play at FTP but I HAVE played at many different networks and in my opinion 4 sites stand out for "enjoyability".
1. Poker Stars
- Very tasteful visuals, good choice of downloadable skins, resizeable tables to ANY size and pleasant buttons to click on.
2. Paddy Power Poker (Ipoker Network) - VERY user-friendly hand histories here. Graphics not much to speak of but an easy to read, easily accessible hand history goes a long way in giving satisfaction.
3. Coral Poker (OnGame) - Chunky and satisfying clicky sounds. Colour-coded spots on opponents is always a nice thing. Nice to see percentage chance to win when hand is dealt out after an all in.
4. Poker Heaven - Full screen mode is great here. Classy colour scheme with tasteful colours, cards are pleasant to look at and if you get bored, you can always watch the Poker Heaven TV channel.