MTT GUIDE

#1 19th January 2006, 9:47 PM

This guide is intended for No Limit hold em poker :

First of all I would like to thanks and give credit to Ripptyde, a
strong successful tournament player who helped me improve a lot by
teaching me some of the important aspects of tournament poker. He
watched me play games and give insight on how
to think like a player and analyze situations, not just play the 2
cards you are dealt .

Second thanks go to Rich and Dustin, two great
poker players who taught me a lot about ring game, and helped me
become a better overall player, especially at the long term
mathematical part of the game, with usually gives you an edge ^_^.

The first thing to consider about this guide, it is intended to play Tight Aggressive, with means, you will be risking a lot , it will be an attitude of play to win, even if it means busting out of a tournament . Why you might ask ? Because its geared at having huge chip stacks by middle tournament, where we ( the chip leader or a very big stack ) will bully every player at play, we are going make a living out the blinds.

First , lets define the style we will use. Tight Aggressive, the perfect style some might say. A Tight Aggressive player is a player who has high standard in hand selection, with means we will enter the pot post-flop as a slight favorite, adding every bit of little advantage we can think off. Second is , we bet Aggressively, like there is no tomorrow, we need to protect our premium hands, and we also want to extract the maximum value from them. Considering this approach , this is a chart I use throughout the tournament . Before reading the chart, lets explain some important concepts ( this guide is intended for every level ) .

Table Position : This is how I refer to table position ( This is meant for new players who don't know the position, is a little system I use to explain my friends about position. This is how it runs; P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, P6, Button , SB, BB. Before the flop, P1 is the first man to act, while the BB is last to act, with gives the BB and SB the best position post flop, but after the flop SB and BB act first )

Position : Position affects the round of betting. But other than that, position is one of the most important aspects of playing NL poker, whether its ring game or tournament and the reason is quite simple, the earlier you act, the more you have to give away about your hand, also is quite hard to know where you stand when you are first to act and haven't seen the other players act. With brings us to one of the important aspect that you need to engrave in your mind, Late Position , the position of the gods. LOVE LATE POSITION , treat it well, and it will regard you greatly. In late position you seem how the action unfolds, and this might will help you chose the best action based on early players action. For example, you hold A8s on the button . , P1 raises 2 times the BB and P2 called everyone folded, you are in the button with your A8s and decided to call. The small blind folded and the BB checked. Flop is AsJd5c . The BB , who limped, bets the pot , P1 calls and P2 goes all in , what's your move here, easy , fold!. You are most probably beat, you kicker is weak, there is a lot of action before you , letting you know someone has a strong A, someone maybe has 2 pair, even a set. This information was available to you thanks to being on late position, in early position, if you where to bet your A, you would of fallen victim to that all in , because you didn't know where you stood. This is just one of the great aspect the button has and we will discuss more and we advanced through the guide. Now that you understand a little more about position, we will move on to the hand chart that I use in relation to the tournament level .

Early stage chart :
s = suited
x = any card
AA ( raise to 5 the BB in any position )
KK ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
QQ ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
JJ ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
1010 ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
AKs ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
AK ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AQs ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AQ ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AJs ( raise 4 times the BB in middle position or late position )
AJ ( If 2 or less limpers, raise to 4 times the BB in late position )
A10s ( Limp in late position. If 2 or less limpers, Raise 4 times the BB in late position )
KQs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind ) ( Raise if 2 or less callers )
KQ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
K10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJ ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
Q10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
Q10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
J10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
J10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
99 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
88 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
77 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
66 ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
55 ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
910s ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
910( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
78s( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
78( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
34s( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
34( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
Axs ( Limp from any position )

Middle stage chart :
s = suited

AA ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
KK ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
QQ ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
JJ ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
1010 ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AKs ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AK ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AQs ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AQ ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AJs ( To play you raise 3 times BB from middle or late position , if someone raised before you fold )
AJ ( To play you raise 3 times BB from middle or late position , if someone raised before you fold )
KQs ( Call up to 3 times BB raise, in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB)
KQ ( Call up to 3 times BB raise , in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB )
QJs ( Call in late position with 2 or more callers )
J10s ( Call in late position with 2 or more callers )
99 ( Limp in , in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB )
88 ( Limp in , in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB )
77 ( Limp in , in late position with 2 or less callers , raise 3 times BB )

Late stage chart :
s = suited

AA ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
KK ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
QQ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
JJ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
1010 ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AKs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AK ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AQs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AQ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AJs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AJ ( Call in late position only )
KQs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
KQ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
QJs ( Call in late position only )
99 ( Call in any position , in late position with 2 limpers, raise )
88 ( Call in any position , in late position with 2 limpers, raise )
77 ( Call in any position , in late position with 2 limpers, raise )

With experience and understanding of tournaments ( with comes with time ) you can tweak the last stage chart greatly , adding a bigger number of hands to your repertoire , but for now I use this general guide for straight playing purposes. For blind stealing you can use any hand you like .

Lets explain the charts a little, you might notice some hands are colored blue, this hands are very strong hands, that are very good heads up, and there is another reason for our blue color. When you raise with any of the blue hands post flop , and someone raises you, you will go ALL IN, and yes I said that . We want to take this hands heads up, we want to isolate our opponent and give this premium hand a chance to win . And you might be thinking, wont I get knocked out ? Sometimes you will but these are strong hands and we are playing to win, we are playing to double up and add chips to our stacks, and for that you need to take risk . Lets consider this any unpaired hand vs. any unpaired hand is at worst a 65% to 35% underdog, with means its only a 3-1 . For example, if we take AKs vs. 72 off suit its a 3-1 . Can you see the little magic, that 72 off suit is going to beat the AK 1 in 4 times so you must be willing to take risk, and at the same time, we want to minimize the risk, that's why we go all in , to have only 1 hand to fight, and increase winning chances . Another scenario, we have AKs and we move all in and our opponent has JJ , how do you feel now, its an almost coin flip , you have 6 outs ( AAA and KKK ) that will make you a winning hand, plus going from flop to river the chances of getting a A or K are very high . you could bust out of a tournament, but you could double up and be on your way to a cash out. It is this attitude of play to win and nothing else that will get you the money .

Another concept in the guide is Limp in. To limp in is to enter the pot by calling the BB only, or entering the game as cheaply as possible . Consider this scenario , you have J10 off suit are on the button, the blinds are 20/40 and no one raised, you call. You just limped in, you paid the smallest price to enter a pot with a good multi-way hand .

You must take into consideration this is the way I play the hands. You don't need to be 100% accurate at playing the hands like I say , with experience you will find your are playing maybe a little bit more hand, but i only use this cause my repertoire consist of strong premium hands .

One of the last concepts might be , that some hands have a certain use, and if you don't meet that use or requirement you might need to fold them , for example low pairs like 6 or less, are used to hit sets, if you don't hit a set, you can fold if its bet to you. hands like 78 are for straights and 2 pairs, if you miss and someone bets strong, you might consider folding , unless you have a good read on the opponent and put him on paint cards that didn't hit .

Now for players who want some explanations of the hands, here it goes, the why of the hands :

AA - the strongest post flop hand, you can be pretty sure with it, if you cant raise post flop with them , what can you raise with ? Only problem is some people don't know went to let go of their A's . Another huge mistake I see people do is the following, they don't raise with AA, thinking they can trap an opponent, only to find themselves trapped when flop is 367 and someone limped in with 37 off suit and beats them. You need to raise to protect your hand . AA is made for heads up or 3 or less players play.

KK - Almost as good as AA , only fears an A on the flop, other than that very strong . Like always a raise hand who doesn't like a lot of company on the flop

QQ - Strong starting hand, but now has to fears A and K , raise with this hand always, and if the flop doesn't bring a A or K you will fire again, you cant give free cards, cause a A or K on the turn might scare you .

JJ - A rather middle strong starting hand I don't personally like . It can fall victim to the A K and Q , other than that , a hand made for heads up play .

AQ, AJ, KQ, - Strong hands , when they make a pair, they usually have a strong kicker to back it up, they also have good straight possibilities, with makes them good multi way hands .

K10 - a troublesome hand, if you flop a king you need to be careful of your kicker, plays well multi way pot though .

QJ, J10, KJ - the multi way hands. you see cheap flops with them going for straights, 2 pairs, open ended draws .

78,34,910- the hands that need to flop 2 pair or open ended straight draws. this are multi way pot hands.

Pocket Pairs ( PP ) - pocket pairs are special kind of hand, I only use them to try and hit a set, and if I sense weakness and I am in late position ill fire with some of them , to usually take the pot right there ( the odds of hitting a set are 8-1 or 11% approximately )

Early tournament :

Before we begin, you must engrave in your mind and system the key to playing MTT tournaments, PATIENCE. You will be playing the early part of a tournament to double up, with means you will be folding a ton, and I mean a ton of hands. But when you play and hit, you can be almost 100% sure you hold the best hand. In this part of the tournament , you can follow the guide 100% , you cant go wrong, players probably don't know you, with means you can play tight and most likely they wont take notice. When i say you will play tight, i mean it. You will FOLD all hands not listed on the chart. When you are in the SB , if its not a suited connector , or a connector, or a gap connector ( a connector with a space , example; 35 ) you will fold . In the BB , you will follow the same rules ( but since you have already the price paid to enter , you might see a flop for free ) . When you enter a pot and flop brings you top pair, you will make a pot sized bet. We wont be slowplaying at this level, people with junk might get lucky and outdraw you , we must prevent this, by betting the pot, you cut everyone's odd 2-1 making it incorrect to chase any type of hand. ( only time when you slowplay is when you flop the nuts and no other hand can outdraw you, example you flop the high end of a straight and the board has no card of the same suit ). For playing the drawing hands you will follow this guidelines, the price must be very low, and you must have at least 8 outs. for example you have JhQh and flop is Kh10h6d, you have 13 outs ( four 9's will make a straight, 4 A's will make a straight and 9 other hearts will make you a flush ). When you flop a set, you will BET, you don't want hands to outdraw you and you will be surprised at how many people will call your bets with a set. At this stage of the tournament you cant be bluffing to many pots, as weak players will call you down, only time bluff, or semi bluff , is as you will see in the next scenario. You have AKs , raised 5 times BB, got 1 caller and I am last to act. You miss the flop with brings 429 and he checks to you, this is a bet , you have position and he checked ( essentially putting up a flag that says: "I don't have a hand mister, take it away from me with a bet" ) if he raises, then you most likely need to fold, as he checked raised showing strength ( if you have a read on the opponent and think you have him beat you can go all in, although I would recommend this type of risky play unless you are pretty sure he will fold, or that you have him beat ) Keep in mind, when you are heads up with someone, the chance of you or your opponent hitting the flop is like 30% percent meaning he could of missed the flop, just like you did .

Middle tournament strategy :

This is where the tournament begins to heat up, as you saw in the chart, most hands are raise hands. We don't come in with a limp showing weakness . We open raise , suited connectors go down on value , but premium hands go up in value, as the blinds increase. This is where we will begin stealing those precious blinds, the same blinds that will add to our stacks, we will begin to see less flops at this level also, once again PATIENCE is the key to everything . ( There is a little idea I that caught my eye, it came from aokrongly, . He states that if the blinds represent 5% to 10% of your stack you can safely play monsters only, if it represents 15% to 20%, then you need to get active, you keep this in mind in case you came with a low stack and you need to play more hands than recommended ) In middle stage you tournament is where the fun begins, blinds are getting larger and larger, and it present the best opportunity to begin stealing. Some players try to use the button almost always to steal, its ok, but it is a little obvious, so I recommend you steal from P5 and P6 also, since it will be less obvious. Some players recommend 3 times a BB raise to steal, it all depends on your style, I usually do 3 times a BB raise , although u can raise 6 times the BB when you have a stack to afford it. Now say you raise 3000 chips, and a short stack who has 6000 chips goes all in, and you had 89 in your hand, what do you , fold ? NO!. this is a call, for 3000 more chips, of course considering you can afford it, you have a chance to knockout a player, and you must keep in mind , any unpaired hand is at worst a 3-1 underdog, so you must call. At this level, bluffing becomes an important ( although overrated ) tool. When you are going to bluff, keep in mind, you need to have as less competition as possible ,preferably 1 player and if you decide to bluff, you must mean it, if the pot has 5000 and you bet 1000, you cant expect to have a successful bluff, you need to bet 5000 to 10000 into that pot, you need to make it count, but don't over do it. When you win a hand through a bluff, you might chose to show it, I personally don't like this practice, as it might backfire when I want to bluff again, I prefer to keep it a guessing game.

Endgame strategy :

So you made it to the end , to the final table, first of all, congratulate yourselves, second of all, get ready for some fears competition, in here hands like A8 off suit go up in value, and deception plays a major role in the final tables, most battles are decided post flop and slowplaying is welcomed here, and blind stealing is a must, as many players will be folding to big raises. I couldn't come up with some concrete way to play this part of the tournament, since its up you and your style of play, although I must say, the Losse Aggressive player will have an edge at this table, meaning you need to change gears at the end of the tournament . One of 2 things can happen here, you are the big stack , meaning you will be raising a lot with junk trying to get some blinds, and if you are a shorstack , you must go all in post flop and with a small stack, keep in mind, it will be harder to blind steal .

Afterthought information :

BIGSTACK : If you happen to have a big stack early in the tournament and by the middle of the tournament, you need to know , you will turn into a chip bully, not to the extend that it will become obvious, but you must steal blind at least 2 times per orbit. One of the mistakes many players make with a big stack is, they just sit back and relax, thinking they are good as won, chances are, the blinds will quickly get to you, other players will get big stacks and then your lead is going to mean nothing, so when you have the big stack, remember be very aggressive, and now things change. You can add more hands to your repertoire since you can afford to see many flops, you can lean on the small stacks , who are scared of busting out, easily taking their blinds, and you can chase more hands , if the price is low and you can afford it .

Bluffs and position : I recommend you pay good attention to opponents, especially online if players check it to you, most likely they didn't hit, so you can bet and try to take down the pot. This move , the bluff, is stronger as you are farther down the board, position is the key to success here . Don't try and bluff in early position, its way to risky , especially with 2 or more players to act behind you .

Blinds : Sometimes you will notice the player in the button always leaning on your blind, when you smell a steal, and you have a marginal hand ( A10 , AJ ) you can raise him to all in , letting him now, you wont give up your blind and you wont stand his steals .Be very selective of this move, since it can backfire, you need to have a good read on the player or the table, and this works when everyone folds to the button and he raises.

Pair vs. flush draw : This is a tricky situation and you must keep in mind, a pair is a slight favorite to a flush draw 55% - 45% almost, with means is almost a coin flip, keep it in mind when going all in against a flush draw, more often than what you think, that flush will hit, you need to be very careful of draws and giving them proper odds . If you bet and someone calls, and you put him on a flush draw, you need to push you cant let him see the last card for cheap, you need to make him fold or pay for his draw . And keep this in mind to your advantage, for example , you have AK of hearts, flop is 4h9h10c and you are short stacked, the blinds are huge, you know your opponent has a pair, you don't have time to waste push all in, and pray to the poker gods, that the coin flips goes your way, the way i see it, if your going to lose, lose fighting, like a real poker man, don't lose because the blinds ate your chips away ^_^.
Raising hand raised ? : You might ask yourself; what if a raising hand is raised before I get a chance to raise ? , well if its one of the blue hands you can re raise, if its any of the other hands, I would recommend you use judgment, although you must keep in mind, in the second stage of the tournament when someone raises he probably has a strong hand like yours, so you should most likely fold, I don't like to cold call and you shouldn't either, you need to be the one raising, thus taking control of the game.

Any comments on the guide, or anything you would like to discuss, or you think should be removed , just let me know at TiteritoClasico69@hotmail.com, with is my email and msn handle . Good luck at the tables .

#2 20th January 2006, 7:48 AM

i especially like the 'raising hand raised' part

#3 20th January 2006, 10:26 AM

Who did this article? you? Who are Ripptyde, Rich and Dustin? Are they supposed to mean something to people here?

If this is your own work then good effort (I haven't actually read it, but it is long!). If you've just copied it, you need to credit the author.

#4 20th January 2006, 12:56 PM

Great guide, good work. Also like the raising hand raised thing. Last week got dealt ak suited. It was late in the game, raised into me, knew I should have raised back but I didnt, just called and got knocked out with A6. He caught his straight on the river card.

Enjoyed th read.

#5 20th January 2006, 4:49 PM

I won a $11 rebuy on pokerstars and this strategy definitely helped! (a lil)

#6 20th January 2006, 10:24 PM

thanks i did the guide, but the reason i credit them is because, they helped into form me ( thanks to rich and dustin, suscesfull online pros i play well in ring games, and thanks to ripp, im a better tournament player )

#7 20th May 2006, 5:40 PM

"KK - Almost as good as AA , only fears an A on the flop, other than that very strong . Like always a raise hand who doesn't like a lot of company on the flop"

I kind of disagree. Only fear is an A on the flop? That's a pretty decent fear. Not to mention someone ELSE could have pocket aces when you have your Ks, although it's unlikely.

My point is that I consider the dropoff between AA and KK to be fairly large, as far as how much you can make. If an ace hits, either no one is going to have it and your gains will be minimal since you'll fear it, or they have it and you take a hit. I don't really agree with playing them essentially like the same hand as AA PF, but I'm sure many people would disgaree with me.

#8 21st May 2006, 9:26 PM

AA and KK are practically the same hand preflop. QQ is basically the same as AA or KK if no overcards flop.... unless you're good enough to put someone on AA or KK and make a helluva laydown.

#9 22nd May 2006, 5:50 AM

Nice work. Where do you draw the line between the early and middle stage of the tourny? Half way?

#10 22nd May 2006, 9:28 AM

After reading your guide I decided to try it out. It was only a $1 tourny on PokerRoom but I placed 57th out of 598 and walked away with a whoping $2.09! It's not much of a win, but I'll take it. Im not much of a MTT player so this was a great help. Mabee I'll hit up a $5 tourny tomorrow.

#11 22nd May 2006, 7:02 PM

Halfway , i would consider when more then half the field is gone , but where are not the final tables, say you begin with 1000 and 400 are left, this could be halfway . Anyways nice job cardssharp, if you would like i could rail you in a tournament. I havent been posting lately due to college finals but now im coming back to poker and hope to begin posting more regularly to help out our members ^_^ , gl at the tables .

#12 22nd May 2006, 11:03 PM

That'd be awsome man. I should be getting my new computer sometime in the next couple weeks. I'm useing my mom's laptop right now so I dont usualy do mtts, she could need it for work at any given minuit.

#13 23rd May 2006, 4:41 AM

A10s ( Limp in late position. If 2 or less limpers, Raise 4 times the BB in late position )
KQs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind ) ( Raise if 2 or less callers )
KQ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
K10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJ ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
Q10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
Q10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
J10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
J10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )

calling raises with these hands is a BAD idea

#14 23rd May 2006, 6:47 AM

i agree, dingo...
This is a great guide for newbies or for someone who's never played, S.A.J. but alot of this stuff can really not be applied...
For example, for me i like to advertise a VERY tight image early on in the tournament so that i can 1) isolate players when i have a hand and 2) so that i can steal blinds later on in the tournament.
Another thing is that your hand selection seems to tighten up as the tournament goes on...is this a strategy you suggest? loose in the beginning and tighten up as the tournament progresses?
If so i honestly completely disagree...the blinds get higher as the tournament progresses, and this calls for a wider hand selection range.

#15 23rd May 2006, 11:07 AM

nice post Sexy.....Ive heard a lot about Ripptyde...I hear the guy is a total animal. If he didn't have such shitty roll management skills he would probably be playing with the best of them by now

#16 23rd May 2006, 4:07 PM

thanks for the post SAJ. its a guideline, like you said - of course there
are reasons to deviate, but there are some good starting points here.

#17 23rd May 2006, 7:36 PM

Like AlurOne said, this is just a basic guideline to make you play tight solid poker. I do not go into the mechanics of correct losse play cause it would take me over 20000 words to type it out, its just to much information, by playing this solid and paying good attention ,the users experience will grow ( its also advisable to ask for assistance here and if you like, contact me and i will personally and gladly help ) and he will understand when to deviate and when to make all sort of different imaginative types of play . I didnt say its an expert guide, just a guide to clean out some of the new users common mistakes . ^_^

Sorry if i sound a little bitc#y, i didnt intend to

#18 24th May 2006, 2:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SexyAceJoker

This guide is intended for No Limit hold em poker :

Pair vs. flush draw : This is a tricky situation and you must keep in mind, a pair is a slight favorite to a flush draw 55% - 45% almost, with means is almost a coin flip, keep it in mind when going all in against a flush draw, more often than what you think, that flush will hit, you need to be very careful of draws and giving them proper odds . If you bet and someone calls, and you put him on a flush draw, you need to push you cant let him see the last card for cheap, you need to make him fold or pay for his draw . And keep this in mind to your advantage, for example , you have AK of hearts, flop is 4h9h10c and you are short stacked, the blinds are huge, you know your opponent has a pair, you don't have time to waste push all in, and pray to the poker gods, that the coin flips goes your way, the way i see it, if your going to lose, lose fighting, like a real poker man, don't lose because the blinds ate your chips away ^_^.

Well it cannot be 55 - 45%, When i know the other guy has a pair and i got the nut flush draw on flop, i actually NEVER gets it. so if u got 2 in same suit and 2 on the board that makes 4 of 14. 10 cards can save u. 2 cards to come. I cant see that is a 55 - 45 %. more like a 25 % chance to get it. 1 of 4.

#19 25th May 2006, 9:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokerhannes

Well it cannot be 55 - 45%, When i know the other guy has a pair and i got the nut flush draw on flop, i actually NEVER gets it. so if u got 2 in same suit and 2 on the board that makes 4 of 14. 10 cards can save u. 2 cards to come. I cant see that is a 55 - 45 %. more like a 25 % chance to get it. 1 of 4.

You have 9 outs for the flush, wich gives you a roughly 36% chance to hit it. I have no idea how you come up with 25% chance to hit it. But you will usually also have other ways of making the best hand, so the flush draw will usually only be a slight dog.

#20 29th May 2006, 9:17 PM

I am new to Poker but I like a lot of what u have written - I still have not had time to read fully. Tell me, are you saying you woul dplay more hands early stages and less middle and less again late ?

Great piece and appreciated by a newbie!!!

Ronaldadio

#21 29th May 2006, 9:50 PM

Going through your article. Tell me, blue states if u r re raised u go all in.

Does that mean black means if u r re raised u fold?

Ronaldadio

#22 29th May 2006, 9:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronaldadio

Going through your article. Tell me, blue states if u r re raised u go all in.

Does that mean black means if u r re raised u fold?

Ronaldadio

Yes i'm pretty sure that's what he means, ronaldadio.
AJ and down are never hands that you should put all you chips in with PF.

#23 29th May 2006, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckTs

i agree, dingo...
This is a great guide for newbies or for someone who's never played, S.A.J. but alot of this stuff can really not be applied...
For example, for me i like to advertise a VERY tight image early on in the tournament so that i can 1) isolate players when i have a hand and 2) so that i can steal blinds later on in the tournament.
Another thing is that your hand selection seems to tighten up as the tournament goes on...is this a strategy you suggest? loose in the beginning and tighten up as the tournament progresses?
If so i honestly completely disagree...the blinds get higher as the tournament progresses, and this calls for a wider hand selection range.

I think I agree with the article, as a newbie.

The amount of times I play in say $25-$50 buy in MTT and sit tight and find I`ve got nothing left is imense!!!

As the guys says, it`s idea for beginners, but I`m sure as your experience increases your play will change.

Ronaldadio

#24 30th May 2006, 4:48 AM

As the tournament progresses you need to play more hands , but in terms of quality you play less. You play only the strongest hands plus the hands for stealing, but since to steal you dont need a hand, i dont count it ^_^

#25 30th May 2006, 4:51 AM

And yes to answer that question , as you play more poker and gain more expierience your play will change, you will add more hands to your repertoire and make new plays not mentioned in the Guide. This is more like some baselines to remove common tips like playing way to many hands and going to far with them . I do not have the correct mathematical numbers cause in tournaments im more of a situational player, odds in tournaments can be esaily thrown out the window in certain cases .

#26 31st May 2006, 9:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckTs

Yes i'm pretty sure that's what he means, ronaldadio.
AJ and down are never hands that you should put all you chips in with PF.

Thanks for that m8, this is where I think I go wrong sometimes. Early in a tourny I start to panic if I start with say 1500 chips and I drop below 1000. At this stage, if I say bet 200 chips and someone goes all in I tend to go all in with cards like AJ, A10, KQ and sometimes even worse!!!

I think when I first started I would not do that.

U might have solved my problem ChockTs !!!!

Thanks m8

#27 31st May 2006, 9:13 PM

I should add *...unless you are shorstacked
basically when you're shortstacked, you need to settle for a less-than premium hand before the blinds eat you up.
I'd say shorthanded is when you get to around 15BBs or less.
My personal rule is i automatically start looking for a push hand with 10BBs left, but you should never really get that low - 15 is good for pushing.

#28 1st June 2006, 5:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SexyAceJoker

This guide is intended for No Limit hold em poker :

First of all I would like to thanks and give credit to Ripptyde, a
strong successful tournament player who helped me improve a lot by
teaching me some of the important aspects of tournament poker. He
watched me play games and give insight on how
to think like a player and analyze situations, not just play the 2
cards you are dealt .

Second thanks go to Rich and Dustin, two great
poker players who taught me a lot about ring game, and helped me
become a better overall player, especially at the long term
mathematical part of the game, with usually gives you an edge ^_^.

The first thing to consider about this guide, it is intended to play Tight Aggressive, with means, you will be risking a lot , it will be an attitude of play to win, even if it means busting out of a tournament . Why you might ask ? Because its geared at having huge chip stacks by middle tournament, where we ( the chip leader or a very big stack ) will bully every player at play, we are going make a living out the blinds.

First , lets define the style we will use. Tight Aggressive, the perfect style some might say. A Tight Aggressive player is a player who has high standard in hand selection, with means we will enter the pot post-flop as a slight favorite, adding every bit of little advantage we can think off. Second is , we bet Aggressively, like there is no tomorrow, we need to protect our premium hands, and we also want to extract the maximum value from them. Considering this approach , this is a chart I use throughout the tournament . Before reading the chart, lets explain some important concepts ( this guide is intended for every level ) .

Table Position : This is how I refer to table position ( This is meant for new players who don't know the position, is a little system I use to explain my friends about position. This is how it runs; P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, P6, Button , SB, BB. Before the flop, P1 is the first man to act, while the BB is last to act, with gives the BB and SB the best position post flop, but after the flop SB and BB act first )

Position : Position affects the round of betting. But other than that, position is one of the most important aspects of playing NL poker, whether its ring game or tournament and the reason is quite simple, the earlier you act, the more you have to give away about your hand, also is quite hard to know where you stand when you are first to act and haven't seen the other players act. With brings us to one of the important aspect that you need to engrave in your mind, Late Position , the position of the gods. LOVE LATE POSITION , treat it well, and it will regard you greatly. In late position you seem how the action unfolds, and this might will help you chose the best action based on early players action. For example, you hold A8s on the button . , P1 raises 2 times the BB and P2 called everyone folded, you are in the button with your A8s and decided to call. The small blind folded and the BB checked. Flop is AsJd5c . The BB , who limped, bets the pot , P1 calls and P2 goes all in , what's your move here, easy , fold!. You are most probably beat, you kicker is weak, there is a lot of action before you , letting you know someone has a strong A, someone maybe has 2 pair, even a set. This information was available to you thanks to being on late position, in early position, if you where to bet your A, you would of fallen victim to that all in , because you didn't know where you stood. This is just one of the great aspect the button has and we will discuss more and we advanced through the guide. Now that you understand a little more about position, we will move on to the hand chart that I use in relation to the tournament level .

Early stage chart :
s = suited
x = any card
AA ( raise to 5 the BB in any position )
KK ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
QQ ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
JJ ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
1010 ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
AKs ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
AK ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AQs ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AQ ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AJs ( raise 4 times the BB in middle position or late position )
AJ ( If 2 or less limpers, raise to 4 times the BB in late position )
A10s ( Limp in late position. If 2 or less limpers, Raise 4 times the BB in late position )
KQs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind ) ( Raise if 2 or less callers )
KQ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
K10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJ ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
Q10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
Q10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
J10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
J10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
99 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
88 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
77 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
66 ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
55 ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
910s ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
910( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
78s( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
78( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
34s( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
34( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
Axs ( Limp from any position )

Middle stage chart :
s = suited

AA ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
KK ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
QQ ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
JJ ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
1010 ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AKs ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AK ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AQs ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AQ ( Raise 4 to 5 times BB in any position )
AJs ( To play you raise 3 times BB from middle or late position , if someone raised before you fold )
AJ ( To play you raise 3 times BB from middle or late position , if someone raised before you fold )
KQs ( Call up to 3 times BB raise, in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB)
KQ ( Call up to 3 times BB raise , in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB )
QJs ( Call in late position with 2 or more callers )
J10s ( Call in late position with 2 or more callers )
99 ( Limp in , in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB )
88 ( Limp in , in late position with 2 or less callers, raise 3 times BB )
77 ( Limp in , in late position with 2 or less callers , raise 3 times BB )

Late stage chart :
s = suited

AA ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
KK ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
QQ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
JJ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
1010 ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AKs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AK ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AQs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AQ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AJs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
AJ ( Call in late position only )
KQs ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
KQ ( Raise 5 times BB in any position )
QJs ( Call in late position only )
99 ( Call in any position , in late position with 2 limpers, raise )
88 ( Call in any position , in late position with 2 limpers, raise )
77 ( Call in any position , in late position with 2 limpers, raise )

With experience and understanding of tournaments ( with comes with time ) you can tweak the last stage chart greatly , adding a bigger number of hands to your repertoire , but for now I use this general guide for straight playing purposes. For blind stealing you can use any hand you like .

Lets explain the charts a little, you might notice some hands are colored blue, this hands are very strong hands, that are very good heads up, and there is another reason for our blue color. When you raise with any of the blue hands post flop , and someone raises you, you will go ALL IN, and yes I said that . We want to take this hands heads up, we want to isolate our opponent and give this premium hand a chance to win . And you might be thinking, wont I get knocked out ? Sometimes you will but these are strong hands and we are playing to win, we are playing to double up and add chips to our stacks, and for that you need to take risk . Lets consider this any unpaired hand vs. any unpaired hand is at worst a 65% to 35% underdog, with means its only a 3-1 . For example, if we take AKs vs. 72 off suit its a 3-1 . Can you see the little magic, that 72 off suit is going to beat the AK 1 in 4 times so you must be willing to take risk, and at the same time, we want to minimize the risk, that's why we go all in , to have only 1 hand to fight, and increase winning chances . Another scenario, we have AKs and we move all in and our opponent has JJ , how do you feel now, its an almost coin flip , you have 6 outs ( AAA and KKK ) that will make you a winning hand, plus going from flop to river the chances of getting a A or K are very high . you could bust out of a tournament, but you could double up and be on your way to a cash out. It is this attitude of play to win and nothing else that will get you the money .

Another concept in the guide is Limp in. To limp in is to enter the pot by calling the BB only, or entering the game as cheaply as possible . Consider this scenario , you have J10 off suit are on the button, the blinds are 20/40 and no one raised, you call. You just limped in, you paid the smallest price to enter a pot with a good multi-way hand .

You must take into consideration this is the way I play the hands. You don't need to be 100% accurate at playing the hands like I say , with experience you will find your are playing maybe a little bit more hand, but i only use this cause my repertoire consist of strong premium hands .

One of the last concepts might be , that some hands have a certain use, and if you don't meet that use or requirement you might need to fold them , for example low pairs like 6 or less, are used to hit sets, if you don't hit a set, you can fold if its bet to you. hands like 78 are for straights and 2 pairs, if you miss and someone bets strong, you might consider folding , unless you have a good read on the opponent and put him on paint cards that didn't hit .

Now for players who want some explanations of the hands, here it goes, the why of the hands :

AA - the strongest post flop hand, you can be pretty sure with it, if you cant raise post flop with them , what can you raise with ? Only problem is some people don't know went to let go of their A's . Another huge mistake I see people do is the following, they don't raise with AA, thinking they can trap an opponent, only to find themselves trapped when flop is 367 and someone limped in with 37 off suit and beats them. You need to raise to protect your hand . AA is made for heads up or 3 or less players play.

KK - Almost as good as AA , only fears an A on the flop, other than that very strong . Like always a raise hand who doesn't like a lot of company on the flop

QQ - Strong starting hand, but now has to fears A and K , raise with this hand always, and if the flop doesn't bring a A or K you will fire again, you cant give free cards, cause a A or K on the turn might scare you .

JJ - A rather middle strong starting hand I don't personally like . It can fall victim to the A K and Q , other than that , a hand made for heads up play .

AQ, AJ, KQ, - Strong hands , when they make a pair, they usually have a strong kicker to back it up, they also have good straight possibilities, with makes them good multi way hands .

K10 - a troublesome hand, if you flop a king you need to be careful of your kicker, plays well multi way pot though .

QJ, J10, KJ - the multi way hands. you see cheap flops with them going for straights, 2 pairs, open ended draws .

78,34,910- the hands that need to flop 2 pair or open ended straight draws. this are multi way pot hands.

Pocket Pairs ( PP ) - pocket pairs are special kind of hand, I only use them to try and hit a set, and if I sense weakness and I am in late position ill fire with some of them , to usually take the pot right there ( the odds of hitting a set are 8-1 or 11% approximately )

Early tournament :

Before we begin, you must engrave in your mind and system the key to playing MTT tournaments, PATIENCE. You will be playing the early part of a tournament to double up, with means you will be folding a ton, and I mean a ton of hands. But when you play and hit, you can be almost 100% sure you hold the best hand. In this part of the tournament , you can follow the guide 100% , you cant go wrong, players probably don't know you, with means you can play tight and most likely they wont take notice. When i say you will play tight, i mean it. You will FOLD all hands not listed on the chart. When you are in the SB , if its not a suited connector , or a connector, or a gap connector ( a connector with a space , example; 35 ) you will fold . In the BB , you will follow the same rules ( but since you have already the price paid to enter , you might see a flop for free ) . When you enter a pot and flop brings you top pair, you will make a pot sized bet. We wont be slowplaying at this level, people with junk might get lucky and outdraw you , we must prevent this, by betting the pot, you cut everyone's odd 2-1 making it incorrect to chase any type of hand. ( only time when you slowplay is when you flop the nuts and no other hand can outdraw you, example you flop the high end of a straight and the board has no card of the same suit ). For playing the drawing hands you will follow this guidelines, the price must be very low, and you must have at least 8 outs. for example you have JhQh and flop is Kh10h6d, you have 13 outs ( four 9's will make a straight, 4 A's will make a straight and 9 other hearts will make you a flush ). When you flop a set, you will BET, you don't want hands to outdraw you and you will be surprised at how many people will call your bets with a set. At this stage of the tournament you cant be bluffing to many pots, as weak players will call you down, only time bluff, or semi bluff , is as you will see in the next scenario. You have AKs , raised 5 times BB, got 1 caller and I am last to act. You miss the flop with brings 429 and he checks to you, this is a bet , you have position and he checked ( essentially putting up a flag that says: "I don't have a hand mister, take it away from me with a bet" ) if he raises, then you most likely need to fold, as he checked raised showing strength ( if you have a read on the opponent and think you have him beat you can go all in, although I would recommend this type of risky play unless you are pretty sure he will fold, or that you have him beat ) Keep in mind, when you are heads up with someone, the chance of you or your opponent hitting the flop is like 30% percent meaning he could of missed the flop, just like you did .

Middle tournament strategy :

This is where the tournament begins to heat up, as you saw in the chart, most hands are raise hands. We don't come in with a limp showing weakness . We open raise , suited connectors go down on value , but premium hands go up in value, as the blinds increase. This is where we will begin stealing those precious blinds, the same blinds that will add to our stacks, we will begin to see less flops at this level also, once again PATIENCE is the key to everything . ( There is a little idea I that caught my eye, it came from aokrongly, . He states that if the blinds represent 5% to 10% of your stack you can safely play monsters only, if it represents 15% to 20%, then you need to get active, you keep this in mind in case you came with a low stack and you need to play more hands than recommended ) In middle stage you tournament is where the fun begins, blinds are getting larger and larger, and it present the best opportunity to begin stealing. Some players try to use the button almost always to steal, its ok, but it is a little obvious, so I recommend you steal from P5 and P6 also, since it will be less obvious. Some players recommend 3 times a BB raise to steal, it all depends on your style, I usually do 3 times a BB raise , although u can raise 6 times the BB when you have a stack to afford it. Now say you raise 3000 chips, and a short stack who has 6000 chips goes all in, and you had 89 in your hand, what do you , fold ? NO!. this is a call, for 3000 more chips, of course considering you can afford it, you have a chance to knockout a player, and you must keep in mind , any unpaired hand is at worst a 3-1 underdog, so you must call. At this level, bluffing becomes an important ( although overrated ) tool. When you are going to bluff, keep in mind, you need to have as less competition as possible ,preferably 1 player and if you decide to bluff, you must mean it, if the pot has 5000 and you bet 1000, you cant expect to have a successful bluff, you need to bet 5000 to 10000 into that pot, you need to make it count, but don't over do it. When you win a hand through a bluff, you might chose to show it, I personally don't like this practice, as it might backfire when I want to bluff again, I prefer to keep it a guessing game.

Endgame strategy :

So you made it to the end , to the final table, first of all, congratulate yourselves, second of all, get ready for some fears competition, in here hands like A8 off suit go up in value, and deception plays a major role in the final tables, most battles are decided post flop and slowplaying is welcomed here, and blind stealing is a must, as many players will be folding to big raises. I couldn't come up with some concrete way to play this part of the tournament, since its up you and your style of play, although I must say, the Losse Aggressive player will have an edge at this table, meaning you need to change gears at the end of the tournament . One of 2 things can happen here, you are the big stack , meaning you will be raising a lot with junk trying to get some blinds, and if you are a shorstack , you must go all in post flop and with a small stack, keep in mind, it will be harder to blind steal .

Afterthought information :

BIGSTACK : If you happen to have a big stack early in the tournament and by the middle of the tournament, you need to know , you will turn into a chip bully, not to the extend that it will become obvious, but you must steal blind at least 2 times per orbit. One of the mistakes many players make with a big stack is, they just sit back and relax, thinking they are good as won, chances are, the blinds will quickly get to you, other players will get big stacks and then your lead is going to mean nothing, so when you have the big stack, remember be very aggressive, and now things change. You can add more hands to your repertoire since you can afford to see many flops, you can lean on the small stacks , who are scared of busting out, easily taking their blinds, and you can chase more hands , if the price is low and you can afford it .

Bluffs and position : I recommend you pay good attention to opponents, especially online if players check it to you, most likely they didn't hit, so you can bet and try to take down the pot. This move , the bluff, is stronger as you are farther down the board, position is the key to success here . Don't try and bluff in early position, its way to risky , especially with 2 or more players to act behind you .

Blinds : Sometimes you will notice the player in the button always leaning on your blind, when you smell a steal, and you have a marginal hand ( A10 , AJ ) you can raise him to all in , letting him now, you wont give up your blind and you wont stand his steals .Be very selective of this move, since it can backfire, you need to have a good read on the player or the table, and this works when everyone folds to the button and he raises.

Pair vs. flush draw : This is a tricky situation and you must keep in mind, a pair is a slight favorite to a flush draw 55% - 45% almost, with means is almost a coin flip, keep it in mind when going all in against a flush draw, more often than what you think, that flush will hit, you need to be very careful of draws and giving them proper odds . If you bet and someone calls, and you put him on a flush draw, you need to push you cant let him see the last card for cheap, you need to make him fold or pay for his draw . And keep this in mind to your advantage, for example , you have AK of hearts, flop is 4h9h10c and you are short stacked, the blinds are huge, you know your opponent has a pair, you don't have time to waste push all in, and pray to the poker gods, that the coin flips goes your way, the way i see it, if your going to lose, lose fighting, like a real poker man, don't lose because the blinds ate your chips away ^_^.
Raising hand raised ? : You might ask yourself; what if a raising hand is raised before I get a chance to raise ? , well if its one of the blue hands you can re raise, if its any of the other hands, I would recommend you use judgment, although you must keep in mind, in the second stage of the tournament when someone raises he probably has a strong hand like yours, so you should most likely fold, I don't like to cold call and you shouldn't either, you need to be the one raising, thus taking control of the game.

Any comments on the guide, or anything you would like to discuss, or you think should be removed , just let me know at TiteritoClasico69@hotmail.com, with is my email and msn handle . Good luck at the tables .

I notice in the early stages u suggest to lipm in with 78 and 34 but nothing in between. Am I reading this wrong??

Ronaldadio

#29 1st June 2006, 8:22 PM

geez did you have to quote the whole damn thing?
no you're not reading it wrong, and my guess is that SAJ just plain missed the other connectors....it's not like there's something wrong with 67 or 45; they have just about the same value.

How about this, to make it simpler for you:

Quote:

Early stage chart :
s = suited
x = any card
AA ( raise to 5 the BB in any position )
KK ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
QQ ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
JJ ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
1010 ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
AKs ( raise 5 the BB in any position )
AK ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AQs ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AQ ( raise 5 times the BB in any position )
AJs ( raise 4 times the BB in middle position or late position )
AJ ( If 2 or less limpers, raise to 4 times the BB in late position )
A10s ( Limp in late position. If 2 or less limpers, Raise 4 times the BB in late position )
KQs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind ) ( Raise if 2 or less callers )
KQ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
KJ ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
K10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJs ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
QJ ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
Q10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
Q10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
J10s ( Limp in any position, can call a raise with is 2 or 3 times the big blind )
J10 ( Limp or call a raise with is 2 times the big blind in late position only )
99 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
88 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
77 ( Limp in from late position , raise if 2 or less callers )
66 ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
55 ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
suited connectors from 34 to 9T ( Limp in from late position , fold everywhere else )
Axs ( Limp from any position )

#30 1st June 2006, 8:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckTs

geez did you have to quote the whole damn thing?:

LMAO this one is funny

#31 1st June 2006, 11:05 PM

sry guys!!!

#32 31st August 2006, 1:16 PM

I've read this but haven't tried it. Here's a weird plan of attack. I was just in a MTT. First hand two go all in. One is holding 3.7 suited. other holding 4,9 suited. My guess was that they were trying to double up or get out with no time invested???? The person who won it, then settled down and played good hands. Don't think I have the guts to do what they did, but hey.......it worked for one of them...LOL

#33 21st February 2007, 1:47 PM

#34 21st February 2007, 3:19 PM

Great guidline, not all applies to me but some I will definately use in the future, I have been having trouble folding low pockets to a raise but this has helped me see the light. +rep

#35 15th March 2009, 10:20 PM

very helpful guide thanks

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