Seeking advice on small cash games.

I'm playing very small cash games on pokerstars trying to build a BR. The games are tight (40-60% of hands end before the flop, if not there then all but 90% end on the flop). Most of the time people fold to raises. I play aggressive in very late position and fairly tight (nothing below pocket pairs or A10) in any other position. I'm finding myself losing money by the blinds long term.

So I pose this question. Which do you prefer, tight tables or aggressive/loose tables. And how do you play each?

Thanks tons!
Apologies if not enough info I'm just looking for some quick short suggestions.
-Newbie

I think it's about the same with everyone... If you look at the stats from most , you will find out that we lose on the blinds to.
Also i think you could also add Ax.

Go to golden archive and video section. Lots of goods there.......Here are some links.

ChuckTs micro guide.
10k post: micro stakes full ring guide [long]
IceMonkey's guide pdf format. Good read if you are just starting out.
http://www.cardschat.com/icemonkey_guide.pdf
seriously though, watch some sessions. They're a huuuuuuge help.

Thanks I'll check it out

tight games are the easiest to win at over time...the people are usually easy to read and u almost always end up heads up on the flop so u can call a raise with a wide range of hands and outplay the raiser on the flop and if u hit a pair with no paint on board in alot of situations u have them on the ropes

Generally you want the tight players on your left and the loose players on your right. You can steal the tight players blinds and play more hands in position against the loose players.

Most books say to play looser in a tight game and tighter in a loose game. I'd tend to agree.

It's tough to make anything out of the blinds unless you are short-stacking. At the lowest levels, I'm actually ahead in the SB playing normal size stacks, but I can't seem to get ahead in the BB. Normally, though, you'll lose in these positions because they are at a disadvantage, having to act first after the flop and each street.

Elaborate on this.

Its true, but do you know what it means?

Stealing should be easier in a tight game and playing good cards should be more profitable in a loose game.

What is your take on it?

Thats pretty much it.

The reason I ask to clarify is that being looser is not simply playing more hands from EP -MP or limping into more pots.

I often see people say play looser and tighter but not actually saying what it means.

If I'm sitting with a tight table I will usually buy in for minimum and then play very very aggressive and push lots, to find out who is playing scared money, and who is just a tightwad. I don't play casinos, and it seems to be a universal truth where I play that in home or club games they only play tight cos they're out of their depth.

If the game is very loose I will either take more money to the game to begin with and advertise my prem card aggressiveness, or I will become a calling station and let them bet into me when I hit nice. I have found that in loose games that fold equity nearly doesn't exist and bluffing is almost pointless, so I opt for value and mostly limp/call/min raise/trap. Either way I feel it's going to the river regardless, so I become a callinator, because ' You've got to be in it to win it.'

What about bluffing? If you are limping at a tight table all the time...... when do you steal? Isn't that a huge advantage of playing a tight table?

Worst advice ever. You have no clue.

Sorry, I should have added:

This is what works for ME during live games against the people I play. Some people may disagree because this is not what they do, or not what they have read to do.

Remember, people who discount what others say but add nothing themselves, usually don't have anything worthwhile to say, they just want attention.

I limp at a loose table a lot, but not all the time.
And at the tighter tables I just start bullshitting from the start, helps to find out where everyone is at, on my terms.

you have to gain the respect of the table in the first hour of your session...play tight with strict preflop raising levels for each position(early middle and late) for that first hour when the cards are playable...once it is established at the table you are tight aggressive, this should allow you to steal the blinds at some point in each orbit to mantain your blinds while you wait for that ONE big pot that should come about every 100 hands

I play a short stack strategy reasonably often. Can you please explain why short stacks have an advantage in the blinds? By short I mean 20BB to clarify.

I certainly don't make any money on the big blind. (Infact its my only negative position) Perhaps I need to open up my restealing range a lot?

Wow, I don't even know where to start. First off, I don't even think you know what a proper short stack strategy is. Shoving all the time to find out who is a tight wad and who isn't is horrible. You are only going to get called by hands that beat you. Buying in for the min says to me that you are a horrible post flop player and you would just rather get all the money in preflop so you don't get out played post flop. You can't play a Short Stack strategy live. You can only play one table, and once you double up, it's kinda hard to leave and go to a new table. Not that you can't leave it's just a pain in the ass if there is a huge waiting list.

The second paragraph in the first quote makes no sense what so ever. I don't even feel like trying to figure out what you are saying there.

And as far as your second quote... Really?? LOL

Only because the short stack can resteal shove with a decent range, depending on the range of the big stack stealer. Since there will be no more post-flop betting, the short stacks in the blinds get to go last, which is an advantage.

I think this is why a lot of people hate the short stackers -- it messes up their stealing. I'm sure there are other reason, too, but that seems like a main one.

You see the topic of this thread was "what do you do in this situation..."
So I replied with what I do, with what works for me, and what puts food on my table. I didn't ask for your 'advice' or your opinion, neither of which would be very helpful as you seem to think there is a fixed method for dealing with every situational variation.

You have entirely misunderstood/misinterpreted portions of my post.

You have responded to your own misunderstandings, in writing.

You are therefore debating with yourself.

I hope you win your argument, but I wouldn't count on it.

.

I didn't misunderstand any part of your post. It doesn't make any sense, period.

Part of a thread is to discuss things so people can learn. People can learn how to do them the profitable way or they can learn how to do them your way. However, sense your post doesn't make any sense, it really doesn't matter.

LOL @ what puts food on your table. You are not a pro, so don't try to make it seem like you are. That comment right there proves how delusional you are. And as far as asking for my advice, maybe you should. Then you wouldn't sound like such an...

obvs a FRW

I myself play alot of the games at sit n goes 9 players , and have built my BR up in the last 3 months over $100 dollars. May not sound like much but for me it works.....

Once I start at the smaller tables $ and move up after awhile to the $5 and $ 10 sit n goes. Now I am thinking on playing at a higher table . GL

Amusing. Unknown hack wannabe from god knows where puffs up chest and foolishly assumes she can tell me how it is in my own back yard.
Another armchair expert misreading and replying to their own out of context foolishness.

Your opinion isn't wrong, just your words.

LOL @ lame attempt to sound educated, while showing you are still stuck in the third grade by calling me a girl.

Lets get back on track to the OP.

I'll play really tight for awhile against very loose player, push back with good hands, then later loosen up a bit and push with lesser hands to steal from them, if they are paying attention. At a really tight table you just could make small raises with a larger range of hands in position, to change up your table image. But you might want to try 6 handed, or two tables at once to see if you're getting more profitable sessions.

That's the best thing you have said! Besides this part..........

Stu and RR, pretty much nailed it on the head for what to do.

I guess the better question is what limit are you playing on Poker Stars? And, what are you looking for when you select a table? To be honest, there are tight tables and loose tables. In the micros there aren't that many LAG (loose aggressive) players that really know how to play LAG.

What I would look for in a table is the players that flop %. I want this as high as possible and then play TAG (tight aggressive). Usually you want to see a table in the 30's to low 40's. Although on higher tables in the 50's and 60's I've noticed there is a lot of limping and no preflop raising. Once you sit at these tables and start raising preflop the flop % starts to drop. It seems like you are picking tight tables with the play you describe. I don't know if that is intentional or if just by happenstance.

The next thing you want to look at is pot size. If the average pot size is 10 big blinds, that is pretty normal, if it's larger there will be more multi way pots which could mean more loose players. So look at the % players flop and then look at the average pot size when picking tables.

When I first sit at a table, I'm going to play pretty tight until I get a feel for what the tabling is doing. Use the advise above play tight in EP - MP and loosen up in late position. Once you get a feel for how the table is playing you can adjust your play accordingly. If there is a player raising whenever it's folded to him you can assume his range is pretty wide, I will three bet a little lighter in these situations. If you notice someone seeing a lot of flops and you have position, don't be afraid to fire a C bet with air. Many players also defend their blinds way too often. That is a huge leak. You are calling a raise way to often in the worse position. I would rather three bet from the blinds than call if you notice someone is stealing all the time.

That is just a quick run down, post if you have anymore questions.

Below, I pointed out what you want to look for when picking tables. If the wait list has three players or more on it, it's probably not worth getting on the list, the table stats will change by the time you sit down.

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lol, that sounds like the one i played a week ago. Oh he did not get far, after i reloaded, to the MAX buy-in ^^^^^ type of player, you can slow play?????