Fixed limit BR queston?

Latley i have been playing limit poker, mainly holdem and omaha hi/low.
I know that you should not risk anymore than 10% of your BR at anytime, but surely this doesnt count for fixed limit because your not really risking that buyin.
For example, just say my BR was $100 i know i should be playing $10 max no limit, but for limit would it be safe to play 0.25/0.50?

no you shouldnt, I wouldnt play with at least 20x max buy ins here. I hate that 10x crap because it is not hard to go through 4-5 and even 10 buyins if you hit a cold run.

as for limit its 300x the big blind so to play .25/.50 it is suggested you have $150.

Depends on your willingness to move down in stakes if you lose large portions of your bankroll, and how much of an edge you have against your opposition. The generic answer is "your bankroll should be 300 big bets" so you'd need $150 to play $.25/$.50

Dammit, stormswa!

as I was reading yours I was like didn't I just say that LOL.

Thanks for the replies. And what about limit sit n gos? Could i play higher buyins because of the fact that it is limit?

what does the format have to do with the buyin?

nothing lol i got it wrong. thanks anyway

What about multitabling, i saw FPaus post a few weeks ago to Joose about the robot, etc(FOR No limit). How does this apply for $1/$2 limit?

has nothing to do with it, same bankroll. No idea what 2nd part of your question is but multitabling does not effect your bankroll limits at all. As long as you know once you drop down you need to drop limits.

Yes it does, FPau explains that, ill go find the post, one minute

didnt read whole thing because I know where the post is going.


I think though if you are a frequent multi tabler it dosent matter though. Like I have always played 4-6 tables so im used to it enough I dont feel it matters. Maybe im wrong?

If you are playing 4 tables of say $25NL using the br management of always having at least 20 times the buy-in fee in your roll then you must be playing with a considerably higher roll than the $500 suggested. A single re-load would put your br management in a position that you would have to play at lower limits. The exact same would apply if you were only playing 1 $25NL table, 1 re-load and you have dipped below the 20 times the buy-in br management code. You are not allowing yourself any room for maneuver, so surely the rule of thumb is flawed here. Wouldnt you be more flexible with 30-40 times the buy-in fee and needing $750-$1000 br to play at $25NL level while still only dropping down if you hit the 20 mark. With that in mind i dont think its a good idea to say that $1000 is sufficient to play $50NL buy-ins using that br management code. Just my opinion, what say you?

I was wondering if what i wrote above was flawed and that the logic i used was way off line, anybody with experience of this care to comment?

The flaw is that you're not counting money that you currently have at the tables as a part of your bankroll; but they are. If I have a $1200 bankroll, and open up 10 $3/$6 limit tables, and buy-in for $120 at each, my bankroll is still $1200, not $0. I have to actually lose the money before my bankroll drops.

At last ha, thank you for that, I was pretty sure my thoughts were flawed. I am still a little confused though about a br of say $1000 being ok to utilize if playing $50NL ring games. My example would give you 20 buy-ins, including a live buy-in. If you lost that live $50 buy-in wouldnt you now only be left with 19 buy-ins at that level thus have to move down a level? So in reality only giving yourself one shot at staying at the $50NL level if things went bad.

it is between 10-20 buy ins so if you just lose 1 single buy in I think you can continue to play your $50 nl game. If you start losing more and drop close to the next buy in max which would be $500 then you need to drop down. So say you played and had 1k and dropped it to $600 - $700 now you should evaluate and see if you think you are being outplayed or have just gotten unlucky. but if you drop that down to $500 you should drop down till you rebuild it to 1k again and try again....rinse...repeat.

Yes that would make a lot of sense and would normally have been enough for me to now understand the concept. But now i am more confused then ever, this is the first time i have read the rule of thumb to be between 10-20 buy-ins. I have read a lot on this forum about br management and 10-20 concept has never been mentioned in anything i have read before. Are you talking about your br management or the general rule of thumb br management?

not really sure what you are asking so will just give general explanation and I will hope that it is good if not ask more specifics.

Bankroll management is good because it is a way to manage your bankroll so It is very very unlikely you will go broke. So lets say you have a starting bankroll of $500.

now with $500 you can sit at $25 nl seeing as you have 20 buy ins total, at $200 you would have 20 buy ins for a $10 nl game so right now you can comfortably sit at $25 NL right? Ok so lets soo you hit a really really sick run and drop that from $500 to $300, now you still have 12 buy ins at $25 NL and you can still sit at that game. The second it drops below $200 you have to move down to $10 NL and rebuild it to at least $250 or more and then you can move up again. If you manage to grind it up to 1k you can move up to $50 NL and the instant it drops around $500 you have to move back down.

that is how you can be sure you will never go bust by moving up and down levels that reflect your bankroll.

Ahhh, i think i get it now, thanks for the explanation. Let me see if ive got this right. When your br is $500 you can healthily play $25NL because you have 20 buy-ins. It only becomes unhealthy when your br hits $200-$250 and you only have 8-10 buy-ins thus you must move down a level. So anywhere between 20-10 buy-ins still lets you play at that level. If your br reached $1000 or 40 buy-ins, you could comfortably move up a level to $50NL, now giving you 20 buy-ins at that level and only move back down if your br goes back to $500 because now you would only have 10 buy-ins at $50NL. Yeah i think thats what you are saying and now i am fully clear on the concept, cheers for the explanation.