Strategy Versus Multitablers

I'm cutting my Hold Em teeth playing micro stakes ring games, and see they're littered with MMters - playing anything between 6-20 tables at once.

Now, my basic rule of thumb is play these as if they're nits and adjust based on observation.

However, with so many at the table at any one time (esp when they short-stack and rathole too!), it can be no fun and there's little EV when betting into pots that get folded round. Slow playing isn't an option, for obvious reasons.

1. So the question is - what's the best angle strategically?

2. Sneaky second question - where can a developing player get any cash action, when the micros suffer from MMters and TPcr*pK dogs who can't be played off anything?

NB: I did move up to low stakes, got ass kicked so have had to move back down. Money's tight at the mo.

If you're speaking specifically about strategy against multi-tablers, things to think about:

1. Depending on how many tables they're playing (6 isn't massive multi-tabling), they can be robotic and relatively predictable. However, they will be predictable within their own parameters - there are wide style variations across multi-tablers, from nits to TAG's to LAG's. You need to figure out what type they are in addition to the fact they're multi-tabling, and play against that type accordingly - if they are massively multi-tabling, they will generally be relatively consistent in their general patterns.

2. Shortstack strategy in conjunction w multi-tabling is a different beast. Most multi-tablers are playing 100bb's - ss's play 20bb's - ss's are generally more predictable than 100bb multi-tablers. I'm talking specifically about 100nl and up, though - ss's at 25nl and below are generally terribad fish and don't have a coherent strategy.

3. The only way to get away from microstakes is to move up in stakes. The fish don't disappear, though - you need to learn how to beat them and how to beat regs in order to move up.

Don't generalise every multi-tabler under the 'nit' tag fwiw, like sly said, there are very wide style variations.

I play about 8 tables and think that a good chunk of my money comes from adjusting to be people who may notice i'm stealing a ton in LP but then don't subsequently adjust for me 4betting them, we do play robotically but i think b/c of that it's easy for a good multi-tabler to spot when somebody is adjusting to them imo. If the guy who's previously folded his blind 100% starts 3betting a lot then it stands out a mile, b/c i know he folds a lot and i'll know that i'm raising any two on that table...and these are the only people i'll 4bet at the micros b/c they rarely adjust to any 4bets.

My style while playing seems to sit around 24/22 so i definetly don't see myself as TOO exploitable, although i do realise that i am still playing a set style, probably too aggressive, and trying not to get into spots where i have to think for any long period of time. If there was someone with similar stats to mine on a table my best defence would be simple, either not play on their tables, or, to just sit accross the table from them so your not playing as many mediocre hands against them.

Multi-tablers are usually regs and imo they're just as easy to play against as the fish once you get a few hundred hands on them, you really have to learn how to fold hands against the nittier ones though, AJ/AQ is an insta muck oop against a nitty mp raiser for example

Sorry for being a dumbass but what is meant by 24/22 - I see this kinda thing a lot?

They are stats that you gather from using programs like Holdem Manager or Poker Tracker. It is was people who play multiple tables use to gather reads.

When they are arranged like that (xx/xx) they are refering to your VP$IP and PFR.
VP$IP means Voluntarily Put Money in Pot. Every time you raise or call you are voluntarily putting money into the pot. When you are in the blinds and forced to so that doesn't count less you call a raise. 24 means the he is playing 24% of all hands he is dealt pre flop.
PFR means Pre Flop Raise and it only refers the the times he raises or re raises pre flop. So of the 24 % of hands he is seeing to the flop he is Raising 22% of the time and only calling 2% of the time.

To OP.
You should be looking for tables with a big fish on them . If you have a big fish on the table then you should be happy that there are mass multi table regs with you because they will not get in the road of you and the fish's money.

Thanks for your answers.

But my question's really about dealing with a multitude of them at each table, not just one or two. They really slow the game down with what is nitty play - I can often p/f raise in any position and the entire table's folded around. Boring.

Naturally, I move tables, but MMTers are all over it.

This is 1/2c, 2/5 and 5/10c levels.

I want enough action to have fun, but not where I become the tuna in a feeding frenzy.

BTW - My donkability showed at 10/25c 6 max where, for reasons beyond my ken, I suddenly turned into an ATM.

Meh, if you want faster action, play more tables yourself. It can help to relieve the boredom, and the tilt potential that comes with it. But do it gradually to get used to it.

There may not be a perfect solution, but if you're not being selective enough about the tables you play, improving in that regard will help. You can't avoid multi-tablers completely, but you can play against more of the types you favor.

Depends on what site you're playing at.

ez enough to avoid SS's... just play on a different table.

I'm not sure what the problem is with waiting for a player to take 15secs. to act. If you're real impatient, why not play HU.

You're playing micro-stakes... it's not the WPT. You shouldn't be looking to push micro-stakes players off of a hand. Play tight and value bet. They'll call. If you can't get action on your good hands then find another table.

Don't focus on strategy. The strategy is dumb it down, ABC, tight/aggressive play. Focus on the play of a hand, tactics.

Post hands and get feed back.

Play PLO instead of NLHE.