| This is a discussion on 6-max questions within the online poker forums, in the Cash Games section; What kind of adjustments should I make on my hand selection for 6-max games? I enjoy six max because there is more action but I ... |
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| 6-max questions What kind of adjustments should I make on my hand selection for 6-max games? I enjoy six max because there is more action but I feel way too nitty compared to most of the players. Let's start with general assumptions: 1. You raise UTG with a far wider range of hands and fear the UTG raise less than at full ring. 2. Three-betting and 3-bet stats are far more important as there is far more 3-betting in 6-max. At full ring or tournaments I would automuck AQ to any reraise that's not all-in because with most full-table play this is a hand that is crushing AQ. At 6-max that's probably not the case -- how far down can I go? AJo? ATs? Or is it better to continue after 3-bet with a hand like JTs/76s? 4. I assume we call 3-bets more often IP and fold to 3-bets more OOP. And that we should loosen up our three-bet requirements when facing an active button or SB. Also, how often do we 4-bet OOP vs. an aggression button? My general rule of thumb is: I three-bet from BB vs. SB or Button quite liberally. I am 3-betting any PP vs. Button and AT+. Some people take positional play too far -- yesterday a BB shipped 60 BBs over my 4-bet on the BTN with TT (I had AA). I think an important stat we need to use more of is "fold to 3-bets." I saw a someone fold four straight steal attemps from the button vs. a BB three-bet. The next round I limped UTG with 65s and three-bet his raise from the button and he autofolded. I suppose some of these questions are unanswerable but what I'm asking is the whole point that we are playing the player and position more in 6-max and our cards become less important? |
| Play Texas Hold'em Online Poker | 6-max questions | |
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| Well to the obvious: It's a better hand. And if called is playable on more boards where villain may make second-best hand (we have overpair or sets more often when villain has top pair or SD). Whereas 22 is unplayable without improvement? |
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2) In a 3-bet pot does it make a difference whether you've made a set with 22 or 99? 3) If you were going to make a bluff catcher middle pair type hand, would you rather do it in a small pot, or a big one. 4) Do you think you are getting implied odds to set mine against a reg who raises 45% of his hands on the button? |
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| re: 6-max questions poker You are right and I was thinking of the problem of unnecessarily bloating the pot but I am also assuming that BTN raises light so often we have good fold equity against much of his range -- and 99 is a healthy favorite over AK/AQ on most flops. If called and leading out/cbetting most flops it has to be +EV as villain will miss and/or not have an overpair the majority of the time, no? |
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If you c-bet a flop with 99 or 22 in a 3-bet pot, and get called, you pretty much have to shut down unless you have a set, or some other flop that is very favorable for your hand. The difference between the two is that 99 actually has good showdown value against a button raiser's range, but it doesn't fair well against a 3-bet calling range (unless that 3-bet calling range is very wide). There's a pretty standard theorum (started on "another forum you post at") that says there are 4 classes of hands: 1) Class 1: Hands strong enough that you can bet or raise for value, and villain will call with worse often enough. 2) Class 2: Hands that still have value against villain's range, but betting folds enough of his range away so that there's not value in betting. 3) Class 3: Hands that have some equity against villain's range, and these hands should be turned into bluffs if we have fold equity. 4) Class 4: Hands that have no value, and should be folded. The classic situation of a hand that falls into class 2 is KK on an A72 board. Its a simple WA/WB situation, and you can't really bet the flop as all worse hands fold and all better hands call. But your hand still has a lot of value, so its too good to fold to 1 bet, or turn into a bluff. I think hands like 99, KQ, KJs, AJ, ATs fall into this category of class 2 when the button raises. When we 3-bet these hands, most of the time, we fold out all worse hands, and get called by all better hands. Sure, we have initiative, but we're out of position with a hand that is an underdog against the button's range. There's a lot of potential for us to get bluffed off of the best hand, or for us to put a ton of money into the pot badly, because the hands we make with these starting cards aren't super strong. Obviously, this changes when the button opens up his calling range a ton, or we can squeeze the small blind at the same time. But that's not very typical. |
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| re: 6-max questions poker Quote:
And I prefer to flat with suited cards like AJs, or KJs. With no initiative, and being out of position, we really need to hit a large number of flops in order to continue. That suitedness makes about 10% more flops that we have enough equity to continue on. But even then, we'll only be flopping enough equity to continue about 45% of the time. But yeah, like I wrote in the 3-betting post, against some super nits you can't really 3-bet AQ for value. Against other players, you can 3-bet AJ for value, because they're just not going to fold any of their stealing range which is super wide. |
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Number of Posts: 12
Number of Authors: 2